Technical EGR Valve

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Technical EGR Valve

I'm very pleased to announce that I took mine off for cleaning the other day (using the instructions on vectra-c). It was replaced under warranty about a year ago, has done about 18k since. Others have reported them failing completely after fewer miles than this.

The valve half was (as expected) sooty. Not blocked, and functioning fine, but it had a good furry coating inside it, some of which had bonded hard onto the metal. The valve still made a nice metallic tinging noise when closing though.

However, the solenoid part (where people seem to get the problems) was spotless. I mean 100% clean - the interface between the two halves was clean, shiny metal - like chrome. Not a grain of soot has got through the gap between the valve plunger and the casing.

My take on this is that the design revisions have been to stop the soot getting through to the solenoid. They have worked.

The manufacturing date stamped on mine was 2009, I think it was March but not certain of the month.

Regarding Pierburg's comments about it not being their fault... Well they would say that wouldn't they?

EDIT: Or has it just not yet had time for the seals to wear out? Perhaps it works perfectly for 90% of its life, then the seals break down and it rapidly packs in. Who knows.
 
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Have just done a longish trip from Southampton to Chelmsforad and back with the caravan, including nearly 2 hours of start stop on M25. I got the feeling that something was holding the car back a little (excluding obvious 1000kg towed load) so at 41K miles I think I'm finally going to fit a new EGR valve and bullet plate as a matter of precaution.

I'm certainly NOT claiming EGR failure as it hasn't failed and/or left me dead for power/pick-up, but I'm certainly convinced that the performance 'edge' has been worn away and fuel consumption has risen a little.

New valve will only harm my wallet and a little of my time but I think now is as good as time as any.
 
It would be worth taking the EGR off and having a look before ordering a new one - it may well be fine.

Clean the boost sensor first.

Also check the air filter. Mine's much happier with a K&N filter element, and I also removed the stupid plastic deflector flap in the bottom of the filter box, which stops it using half of the filter.

Mine's like a new car now - really happy with it.
 
I'm not flush with money Doofer but I already have the bullet plate and putting the latest spec EGR valve on will not hurt AND will give a spare old valve which I can thoroughly clean and recon in my own good time.

Air filter is fairly new (5K miles ago) and yes I've seen that deflector flap.

Regarding the flap I'm wondering why it is there in the first place?????? I'll have to have a look again and ponder its presence. Water ingest relief?
 
Regarding the flap I'm wondering why it is there in the first place?????? I'll have to have a look again and ponder its presence. Water ingest relief?

The theory offered on Vectra C was that it's to keep the drive-by noise levels down - it sounds like a feasible theory. I'm fairly sure I can hear more of the turbo spinning since I got rid of it on mine, but it's a very nice noise. It's not intrusive or embarassing. However, I did put a K&N filter on at the same time, and it's likely that this muffles the noise a lot less than a paper one.

It does look like an afterthought/botch to me - possibly a quick fix that didn't go through the design/testing phase. My old filter was black on the side away from the flap, and spotless above it. So the engine will get breathless far quicker with half an air filter.

If it's removed very carefully then it should be possible to replace it in the future. I think I snapped one of the clips on mine, but I don't see a reason to put it back.
 
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