General Dump valve?

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General Dump valve?

performance and reliability :confused:

all it does is dump the air from the turbo back to atmosphere when you take your foot off the throttle.
 
Forge Dump valves are probably the ones to go for, although most people who use Bailieys rate them well.

Do you want an audible dump noise of not that is another big question.
 
Forge Dump valves are probably the ones to go for, although most people who use Bailieys rate them well.

Do you want an audible dump noise of not that is another big question.

i want audible. my mates say baileys but other people say forge?:confused: also i have never owned a car with a turbo before this is my first so apologies if my questions sound a lil stupid.
 
performance and reliability :confused:

all it does is dump the air from the turbo back to atmosphere when you take your foot off the throttle.

as for reliability, technically it is designed to relieve pressure when you shut the throttle. with the throttle shut and the turbo compressor blades still spinning more pressure is being added but with no outlet. its feared that this momentary pressure could damage pipework, intercooler or even the turbo fan blades even causing them to stall.


This was a massive debate on fccuk. there are those running without them and as yet have not had any reliability issues.

The coupe dumps back into the induction pipes, hence mine is so audiable after fitting a freeflow air filter. Atmospheric ones are an option though, and are louder, still.

The brand name aftermarket ones are better construction than original equiptment.
 
I've had two Bailey ones stop working on me now so I personally wouldn't recommend them but i know of others that have had ones fitted for years with no problems.

I personally prefer the diaphram type rather than the piston type they have been more reliable for me. I'm using an adjustable turbosmart one at the moment and so far so good
 
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as for reliability, technically it is designed to relieve pressure when you shut the throttle. with the throttle shut and the turbo compressor blades still spinning more pressure is being added but with no outlet. its feared that this momentary pressure could damage pipework, intercooler or even the turbo fan blades even causing them to stall.
yes i know, but he's asking which dump valve will give better reliability. any dump valve will do the same job, only the noise changes, so reliability is not affected by dump valve choice.

if it was a question of having a valve or not having one then yes your point is valid and there is a huge reliability issue. in this case that choice isnt an issue, its simply a question of which dump valve to choose. for that reason, all you need to consider is the noise.
 
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The dump valve can affect reliability. If it leaks on boost (quite common on standard valve) it will cause the turbo to overspeed, and the boost leak will cause over rich mixture along with its complications.

If it doesn't open it can cause compressor stall, which won't do the turbo much good in the long run either.
 
Hi i have a 2.0 16v turbo coupe engine in mt tipo and i want to get a better dump valve? any ideas which would be the best one for performance and reliability for my engine? thanks


Avoid cheap Jap copies from e-bay and the like, for the reasons stated above. I've worked on several cars which have been leaking boost due to the poor machining of the dump valve, and others which have stuck causing turbo damage.

Baily dump valves are generally good as long as you look after them. You can get service kits should you have a problem. As are Forge.

Alan
 
Hi mate,

The main choice between them two really is if you want the Tschhhh noise or not. The re-circulating one wont produce much of a Tschhh although it will still be slightly audible of you have decent induction, whereas the EVO is a VTA type dump valve meaning you will get the Tschhhh.

Alan
 
Jug - sorry, but you're wrong. There are different types of dump valve and some are definitely more reliable than others, although I accept that they do the same job. However, that's like saying a Murciélago does the same job as a Micra - technically correct, but there are some notable differences!

There are piston valves and diaphragm valves - the latter can split, rendering them useless. Piston valves are adjustable by virtue of fitting different grade springs or shims.

There are metal valves and plastic valves - guess which is best?

There are recirculating valves and VTA (vent-to-atmosphere) valves. VTA is what gives the loud 'Psssssst' noise so revered by the chav community for their 1.2 Corsas. Note that a turbo car fitted with an airflow meter AND a VTA dumpvalve will overfuel, as the airflow meter tells the ECU what fuel to give, but the VTA has thrown some of the air away. Can lead to borewash and premature engine wear.

I've had a Forge DV006 fitted for the last 110,000 miles (the last 60,000 of which have been running as high as 400bhp) and I've had to clean it out once. Super reliable and work well.
 
Jug - sorry, but you're wrong. There are different types of dump valve and some are definitely more reliable than others.
he was asking which will give the best reliability of his engine, not the valve. ;)


personally i'd never use a diaphragm valve. i've seen cheap ebay valves that didnt even last 6 weeks.
 
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