Technical Stud conversion / minimum thread

Currently reading:
Technical Stud conversion / minimum thread

Joined
Dec 20, 2004
Messages
5,167
Points
961
Location
Kent
Hi all,
Yesterday changed all the bolts to studs, all locked in with some threadlock. On the rear there are no issues as im not running any spacers, but on the front im running 9mm (a 6mm and a 3mm).

The problem i have is i dont appear to be getting much thread left on the stud once the wheel is on too. Its meant to be 38mm exposed thread, but overall they dont seem to be any longer than the standard bolts :confused:

So whats the minium amount of thread the nuts need to cover to be safe? Im gonna take off the 3mm spacers at the moment just to be safe, but want to run the full 9mm upfront to keep a perfect OE offset.
 
mase said:
thing is....

38mm exposed, so 50mm total length, take away 9mm for the spacer, and then another 10mm goin into the hub, and u still have 31mm, the standard bolts are only 32mm total length.

would of thought there would of been plenty of thread there for the nut to grip onto :confused:

i think its the thickness of the wheel that is causing the problem :(
 
mase said:
thing is....

38mm exposed, so 50mm total length, take away 9mm for the spacer, and then another 10mm goin into the hub, and u still have 31mm, the standard bolts are only 32mm total length.

would of thought there would of been plenty of thread there for the nut to grip onto :confused:

Ah but you also have to consider that you want the whole length of the nut to be on the thread, not part of, i took a longer wheel nut from my Cinq (ones that came with it for when you gave it to me with 6mm spacers) and it had 44 mm of thread not counting the bolt top which was a further 25mm including coller, therefore overall length was 69mm, therefore the equivilant stud has to have the same overall length, therefore I went for 48mm exposed on a 8mm spacer to ensure this.

It is true that different wheels have diff thickness's as well, i know that when i changed my integrale wheels from the standard Speedlines to AZEV's i had to buy shorter bolts.

Aaron.

Edited cos i got a chance to remeasure the bolt and put in correct figs
 
Last edited:
J333EVO said:
Ah but you also have to consider that you want the whole length of the nut to be on the thread, not part of, i took a longer wheel nut from my Cinq (ones that came with it for when you gave it to me with 6mm spacers) and it had 46 mm of thread not counting the bolt top which was a further 18mm therefore overall length was 64mm, therefore the equivilant stud has to have the same overall length, therefore I went for 48mm exposed on a 8mm spacer to ensure this.

It is true that different wheels have diff thickness's as well, i know that when i changed my integrale wheels from the standard Speedlines to AZEV's i had to buy shorter bolts.

Aaron.

yea, admittdly i didnt think of it like that when i bought mine..... does make a degree of sence for a northerner :p

how easy u think these studs will be to get out once they have been sat with threadlock in the hubs for a month or so? :rolleyes:

EDIT: ive just looked on rally design website, the next size up is 68mm exposed, i wanted 58mm exposed :(
 
Last edited:
mase said:
yea, admittdly i didnt think of it like that when i bought mine..... does make a degree of sence for a northerner :p

how easy u think these studs will be to get out once they have been sat with threadlock in the hubs for a month or so? :rolleyes:

either stick to nuts on and lock them against each other then unbolt stud, then use 2 spanners or socket spanner and turn opposite directiosn to unlock the nuts and should come off with fingers, or use a stud remover kit :)

PS fecking Northerner, don't get me started on what the Scots have given the world, the telephone, television, the transistor, the motion picture, penicillin, electromagnetics, radar, insulin and calculus etc etc if it wasnae for us you frigging english would still be in mud huts, lol

or just vehicle related;

A steam car: William Murdoch (1754-1839)
Tarmac roads: John Loudon McAdam (1756-1836)
Driving on the left: Determined by a Scottish-inspired Act of Parliament in 1772
The pedal bicycle: Kirkpatrick Macmillan (1813-1878)
The pneumatic tyre: Robert William Thomson (1822-1873) and John Boyd Dunlop (1840-1921)
The speedometer: Sir Keith Elphinstone (1864-1944)
The motor lorry: John Yule in 1870
The steam tricycle: Andrew Lawson in 1895
 
Last edited:
J333EVO said:
PS fecking Northerner, don't get me started on what the Scots have given the world, the telephone, television, the transistor, the motion picture, penicillin, electromagnetics, radar, insulin and calculus etc etc if it wasnae for us you frigging english would still be in mud huts, lol

or just vehicle related;

A steam car: William Murdoch (1754-1839)
Tarmac roads: John Loudon McAdam (1756-1836)
Driving on the left: Determined by a Scottish-inspired Act of Parliament in 1772
The pedal bicycle: Kirkpatrick Macmillan (1813-1878)
The pneumatic tyre: Robert William Thomson (1822-1873) and John Boyd Dunlop (1840-1921)
The speedometer: Sir Keith Elphinstone (1864-1944)
The motor lorry: John Yule in 1870
The steam tricycle: Andrew Lawson in 1895


gon yerself
 
mase said:
yea, admittdly i didnt think of it like that when i bought mine..... does make a degree of sence for a northerner :p

how easy u think these studs will be to get out once they have been sat with threadlock in the hubs for a month or so? :rolleyes:

EDIT: ive just looked on rally design website, the next size up is 68mm exposed, i wanted 58mm exposed :(

why dont you get longer studs and chop to size?

nuts are meant to engage one full thread past top or are they cap nuts which should have recess at back of nut so they dont lock on stud will have to check nuts internally and work out how much you need of a stick out. What size of thread is it on the studs? It will depend on thread pitch how many full threads of grip you need because its not so much length but full threads engaged that matter.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top