They are friction adjusters, nothing more. No ratchet of any sort.
Just adjust them so the drum just goes on, in or out to suit.
D
Just adjust them so the drum just goes on, in or out to suit.
D
General Handbrake Adjustment/Repair
- Thread starter CasLad
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General Handbrake Adjustment/Repair
ROB MILLER
New member
Happy to say that my handbrake is text book "4 clicks"
and a proper 'pedal'?
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D
This is probably a simple thing, but can someone tell me why the brake drums now won't come off (Seicento 2002)? My handbrake has not worked for about six months, hence why I started this thread. I want to have a good look at the shoes, likely those armatures that are seized, etc.
I have now removed both retaining bolts, but the drums won't lift off. I have tapped them with a hammer all the way round, but still "no".
In the Haynes manual it says that I need to do something with the handbrake cable under the car. Is this correct, considering that the handbrake is not working at all? Do I need to slacken those handbrake cable nuts hidden under the exhaust beneath the car (which are used for adjustment), and if so, can it be done without removing the exhaust? I don't have a pit to work in, and although I have ramps and axle stands, I have found it too awkward.
Or is it just that I need to bash the drums a bit harder because they are seized on?
Thanks
I have now removed both retaining bolts, but the drums won't lift off. I have tapped them with a hammer all the way round, but still "no".
In the Haynes manual it says that I need to do something with the handbrake cable under the car. Is this correct, considering that the handbrake is not working at all? Do I need to slacken those handbrake cable nuts hidden under the exhaust beneath the car (which are used for adjustment), and if so, can it be done without removing the exhaust? I don't have a pit to work in, and although I have ramps and axle stands, I have found it too awkward.
Or is it just that I need to bash the drums a bit harder because they are seized on?
Thanks
I take it you have removed the spike bolt?
That is the only thing actually fixing the drum.
The shoes will be very close though and if there is a lip on the drum they may have been adjusted out so far that they are stopping the drum coming off.
Slackening the adjuster off may do it, some extra force on the drum may do it too.
You shouldn't need to remove the exhaust to adjust the handbrake.
If the cable is sticking try pulling back on the actuator levers on the back of the drum.
Thanks,
Yes, I removed the spike bolt. I had to take it to a mate who is a mechanic. He used an electric impact driver, which I didn't have.
It is possible that the shoes are so tight on that they are holding the drum in place because to get it through its MOT it was just re-adjusted rather than rectifying the problem (not by me).
I'll try working on it again and manipulating the actuators.
Andrew
Yes, I removed the spike bolt. I had to take it to a mate who is a mechanic. He used an electric impact driver, which I didn't have.
It is possible that the shoes are so tight on that they are holding the drum in place because to get it through its MOT it was just re-adjusted rather than rectifying the problem (not by me).
I'll try working on it again and manipulating the actuators.
Andrew
Where in the world are you?
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Yes, it may be adjusted up so tight that the shoes are inside a lip on the drum.
multipete
Established member
The levers that go into the drums,seize. While you Work the hand brake up and down,check the levers at the end of the cables are moving,if they don't move,pull the lever to lengthen the spring on the cable at the drum,slacken hand brake under centre of car (2x13mm) This will help remove the drum.Free the levers to improve hand brake performance.
Thanks for all the advice.
I got both drums off now and can see what is going on. When the handbrake is lifted there is zero movement on one side and only a little bit of movement on the other. The levers are moving when I squeeze them manually, so I suppose it is a rusted cable (as advised).
Andrew
I got both drums off now and can see what is going on. When the handbrake is lifted there is zero movement on one side and only a little bit of movement on the other. The levers are moving when I squeeze them manually, so I suppose it is a rusted cable (as advised).
Andrew
multipete
Established member
Remove the cables from the levers,then check the levers move freely,WD40 and oil as necessary.Pull hand brake on/off and check while off levers.
When you get the new cable, take the time to drip oil through it.
It will make a huge difference to how it feels and keeps working.
Thanks, I will certainly do.
In an earlier post, "friction adjusters" were mentioned, and elsewhere "you preset the adjustment of the shoes on the friction adjusters". Forgive my ignorance, but what are these and have they any relevance to me swapping the handbrake cable then adjusting it via the nuts under the car?
Andrew
In an earlier post, "friction adjusters" were mentioned, and elsewhere "you preset the adjustment of the shoes on the friction adjusters". Forgive my ignorance, but what are these and have they any relevance to me swapping the handbrake cable then adjusting it via the nuts under the car?
Andrew
multipete
Established member
multipete
Established member
Your problem sounds like cable seized or linkage seized. The friction adjusters are only affected when you change shoes.
To get the handbrake adjusted properly you will have to start with the drums.
Leave the cable very loose
Make sure the drums have the wear lip removed (or buy new ones, they are cheap enough).
Make sure the actuators are free to move easily.
Use the friction adjusters to position the shoes so that they just allow the drum to go on and turn.
Tighten up the drums and then adjust your cable to suit.
D
Leave the cable very loose
Make sure the drums have the wear lip removed (or buy new ones, they are cheap enough).
Make sure the actuators are free to move easily.
Use the friction adjusters to position the shoes so that they just allow the drum to go on and turn.
Tighten up the drums and then adjust your cable to suit.
D
Thanks very much (again). I'll have a go at it, maybe next weekend. This weekend I have the clutch cable to replace as it snapped last Saturday and the replacement part is on order (I have figured this job out by myself though).
A
A
You'll be needing a clutch...
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