Technical Help needed - MPi Seicento won't start

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Technical Help needed - MPi Seicento won't start

NeilVox

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Jan 10, 2014
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Hi all,

Last weekend whilst sat in the car it just suddenly cut out - had been idling for around 2 mins and started from cold. Couldn't get it started but suspected the crank position sensor, cursed my luck and got a taxi home.

Got Green Flag to have a look and he couldn't get it started either - suspected either timing or compression issues as all four cylinders getting spark, fuel and air. Asked him about the crank sensor and he said 'No' as the OBD reader showed it was sending a signal.

So when the the car was home I checked the timing - seemed ok but the belt seemed to have worn excessively with fibrous material deposited around the belt route, also the cam cover was leaking quite a bit.

I then thought the timing was out due to the oil leak - so I've fitted a new belt, water pump, tensioner and coolant and recharged the battery on my Optimate.

Tried starting and it nearly fired properly, in fact, it ran for a while but really lumpy and wouldn't rev out - tried againand no good - now the battery's flat again.

Any ideas? I'm **** outta ideas and it seems a shame tro scrap it as it's only done 53k on a '02 plate.

Thanks for reading! :bang:
 
Thanks for the response guys, I think the timing is ok according to the marks on the crank and cam - the fuel pump primes when the ignition is on. I think a trip to the garage is in order!
 
Did you locate the nipple?

D


Shirley that'd make thd timing wrong by 120'

Cant see it 'running rough'

In that scenario.


Where is the car based??

You might get a recommendstion of s decent garage.. who wont just keep swapping parts..

In the meantime.. try a bettrr battery..

And get it diconnected long enough that the LEARNT settings are forgotten in the ECU.

Charlie Cardiff-Oxford
 
Shirley that'd make thd timing wrong by 120'

Cant see it 'running rough'

In that scenario.


Where is the car based??

You might get a recommendstion of s decent garage.. who wont just keep swapping parts..

In the meantime.. try a bettrr battery..

And get it diconnected long enough that the LEARNT settings are forgotten in the ECU.

Charlie Cardiff-Oxford

Cheers - car's based in Portsmouth - just had it picked up and taken to local garage.
 
You can check the timing statically by turning the engine over by hand with the spark plug out on number 1 cylinder (nearest the belt).

The timing mark on the crank pulley should line up with the crankcase mark when #1 is at TDC. Either use a dial gauge or get someone to hold a long thin screwdriver vertically in the cylinder, so it rises and falls with the piston. Immediately after the pulley mark is aligned (TDC), any further rotation of the crank should start to lower the piston.

> Make sure someone holds the screwdriver vertically or it'll get trapped in the valve and get broken (ask how I know.. :eek: )

Agreed that the TDC sensor cannot be the culprit. If you see sparks at the plugs and the injector is getting a signal then it's not the TDC sensor A dead sensor means no sparks and no signal at the injector... that's the best way to diagnose a dead one without any OBD.

Are you getting fuel at the injectore though? If you remove the hose to the injector and crank the engine over, you should see fuel come out (catch it in a small tin/bottle). The pump *could* be priming/making a noise or even pumping but no fuel coming through.

If the timing is good and you have fuel and sparks then it must start. I wouldn't worry about mechanical failures/holed pistons etc. at the moment.


Ralf S
 
Last edited:
Whats happened in the last week..??

Thanks again for all the replies - car is now running - it took the garage 3 hours so suss out the issue - they say the cam was out by 180 degrees - not sure how that is as they were using the timing marks and not totally convinced that was the issue but I’m just glad it’s sorted.
 
Thanks again for all the replies - car is now running - it took the garage 3 hours so suss out the issue - they say the cam was out by 180 degrees - not sure how that is as they were using the timing marks and not totally convinced that was the issue but I’m just glad it’s sorted.

3 hours labour for a relatively simple fix.. ouch..!!:(

either the sensor on the cam was reading something odd..

or it was masking another issue..

I'm sure you'd have noticed if the marks were so far out .... at the point when you re-checked it yourself..:chin:

personally I'd be having another peek to see what the marks show now.;)

does it run any better than it did before..??


HANG ON - how on earth did it run briefly if the cam timing was 180' out..

mine was just 7 teeth and would only crank.. no pops or bangs..:eek:
 
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