Had my Cinq' a few months now & noticed another minor fault

Well, less major than my hitting a kerb & nearly writing it off!!! ;-p

Not been able to work out what the effect of it being entirely blocked off has from reading, as this is my 1st car & I'm still learning.

Somebody wanna' gimme' the answer?

Also - how do the K&N kits get around needing the sensor?

Are they just built so th@ the intake pipe gives the right amount of cold/warm air?

Smiler121 said:

Not been able to work out what the effect of it being entirely blocked off has from reading

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It being what exactly?...I hope youre not talking about the MAP line (thats the black thing that comes out of the inlet manifold and goes to the bottom of a sensor by the ECU

Smiler121 said:

Also - how do the K&N kits get around needing the sensor?

Click to expand...

Again, what sensor? Theres about 6!

Smiler121 said:

Are they just built so th@ the intake pipe gives the right amount of cold/warm air?

Click to expand...

Nope theres no hot/cold air metering at all with the K+N. Being Honest the K+N isnt suited to the 1108cc unless you have a bloody big cold air feed to it, as it takes in air from all around it (usually cold, but the area around the top of the engine is warm - so it is often warm).

Warm air is only good on cold mornings anyway, and thats only for the first 5-10mins. Otherwise its a detriment to performance!

I had gotten the name for the thing I was talking about wrong - thought it was the "inlet air temperate sensor".

I am talking about the tube in "remove airbox step 9" decribed in the pipercross fitting instructions.

The thin tube that runs from the airflow pipes on the right hand side of the engine to the "thermostatic vacuum switch" as it is described in the Haynes manual.

I don't seem to be able 2 work out in my head the effect of it being sealed off from the intake ducting, also only the tube has been plugged - the ducting has been left with a hole.

Oh, as for using the Pipercross fitting instructions as a reference - have done quite a bit of reading up on different mod options, but don't REALLY know anything about engines yet!!!

I was planning 2 use a really decent (bigger) cold air feedpipe like the pipercross ones I've seen th@ fit right in2 the bumper but without being able 2 compare from a decent quality pic & not knowing any1 with a modded Cinq' I'm basically trying 2 B sure I know what I'm doing in advance.

Am probably going 2 get the bumper changed @ the same time by removing all the plastic mesh areas (including those that are currently sealed) & replacing with a full honeycombed style mesh - thinking of the type on the MG-ZTs.

Think th@ will be enough to keep the engine bay cool enough 2 work?

Erm...theres 2 connections on the base of the airbox that are used as vacuum references.

The black line is connected to the wax-stat (black module supported by 2 bolts near RHS front of engine - that is removed with the rest of the factory airbox.

The brown line is connected to the throttle body, and that will remain so I presume as it also connects to something else I think (that'll be the one that you need to seal off).

As for cold air feeds, get the biggest diameter pipe you can find, and direct it into direct airflow . Those bumper bods youre talking about should help lower the engine temp yes

It is the one th@ gets removed when I fit a new induction kit I'd like to get more detailed info on.

I can't afford the new kit str8 away so I'd like 2 know what the effect of the tube being blocked & there being an opening where it should connect?

I know it controls some kind of "flap" which controls the amount of hot air into the engine, but if the tube is sealed & where it should fit into open, will this mean it is permanently letting more or less hot air in?

The theory goes something like this:-

During warm up the wax stat allows heated air to enter. Heated air is not good for best emissions. Therefore colder, denser air is desireable. However as air speeds up it can become too cold and freeze with the addition of fuel.

The vacuum pipe is part of that balancing act between hot and cold.

If you have the standard airbox fitted leave the pipe doing its job. There is no benefit to removing it.

If, when you come to fit the induction kit you are required to move it, the make sure the hole on the TB is sealed as that will introduce air at the wrong point in the induction process. You can choose to leave the pipe and block up the end of the pipe, or remove the pipe and fit a rubber sleeve over the tube in the the TB.

Cheers

D

Thanx 4 the further info.

It is already broken - I just wanted 2 know what effect th@ it having left a hole @ the right hand end where it should connect has.

Wondering if I can put it off 'til I can afford a new induction kit which seems 2 remove the need.

My concern was th@ if it makes the engine get hot air all the time / not get the hot air @ all?