Hi everyone

Have recently replaced the headgasket on my sei sport and it sounds terrible. I have had the head skimmed and also had the valve stem seals replaced. My question is what type of tappets does the 1108 SPI have? Can they be adjusted?

Rochford said:

Hi everyone



Have recently replaced the headgasket on my sei sport and it sounds terrible. I have had the head skimmed and also had the valve stem seals replaced. My question is what type of tappets does the 1108 SPI have? Can they be adjusted?

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There not exactly tappets there shims on buckets so if everything went back as it should i.e. You numbered the buckets as the come out It shouldn't be too tappy but from past experiences it's very easy to put the head gasket on upside down blocking the only oil gallerie up to the head

Hi and welcome
The SPI 1108 has cam buckets and shims, basically you need to measure your valve clearances and then remove the camshaft and buckets and see what shims are fitted and then work out what shim needs to be fitted to obtain the correct clearances

You beat me to it henseyseries was just going to suggest checking the oil supply to the camshaft

dadandlad said:

You beat me to it henseyseries was just going to suggest checking the oil supply to the camshaft

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It's always something I like to bring up because it's something I've happened to have done myself and went through checking shims ect to find out I had no oil supply to my head

Thanks for the replies. I wondered about a problem with the oil supply so took the cam cover off and it seems to be fine. Shame as I made such a good job of sealing it on. Will have a look at the valve clearances. I suspect that is the problem.

I found the secret to having a nice leak free cam cover is to make sure the mating faces are dry from oil and sealant free and build it up without any silicone sealant
The previous owner of mine had smothered it in sealant and it poured oil out

If I was going to use any sealant it would be a really thin smear of Hylomar blue as it is a none shrinking and none setting substance ?

Rochford said:

Thanks for the replies. I wondered about a problem with the oil supply so took the cam cover off and it seems to be fine. Shame as I made such a good job of sealing it on. Will have a look at the valve clearances. I suspect that is the problem.

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mine looked fine had oil over the cam like it should it was only till I actually started it with no cover on I realised I was getting nothing to the cam if you've already done that then go onto checking clearances, i'm not sure if you have a manual to hand but the clearances are

0.50mm +/- 0.05mm - EXHUAST
0.40mm +/- 0.05mm - INLET

And the should be measured with the cam loab pointing up so your measuring from the base circle

and, when refitting the cam cover believe the torque figure.

D

:yeahthat: most common cause of leaks here is over-tightening the bolts, the seal deforms and doesn't seal - 8Nm only, a little over finger tight. Small blob of sealant in the corners where the seal has 90 bends to go over the cam caps at either end.

I don't think hylomar blue is oil resistant, gylcol and fuel yes, but doesn't say oil resistant anywhere on it or one hylomar site so wouldnt use that - i use loctite 5910 or 5980 - both are oil resistant and good for use on sumps

This is all good information. Just need some time to work on it now!

always a problem, finding the time lol

Hylomar Universal Blue is definitely oil resistant just had a look at there technical data sheet ?
Also from past experience of rebuilding numerous Gardner 6 LX and LXBs were metal to metal sealing faces are used we didn't suffer from oil leaks

Got to agree though that torque settings are important even if they don't seem very tight, just rebuilt a Cummins QSB engine and you would think it would fall apart with some of the settings

fair enough, i didn't look in detail - just skimmed the product page on their website and couldn't see oil on it

'alto' is top.

D