hoping someone can help!
i have recently changed the clutch on my cinq.
however when i change gear and let the clutch out its as if i am dropping the clutch and the gearbox clunks hard. i have adjusted the clutch cable adjuster but it doesnt appear to make any difference, still bangs when i let the clutch out.
is there any more adjustment i can do? im wondering if the gearbox arm may be a spline out?
any info or help would be great, its very difficult to drive!

Are all the engine mounts back in tightly and unsplit, especially the one under the floor?

Cheers

D

As above, first check the engine mountings.

If the clutch is engaging abruptly, it could be damaged. If you allowed the gearbox to hang on the clutch plate before getting the first bolts in, that can bend the plate and cause this type of issue.

The release bearing also needs to be able to move smoothly on the nose of the gearbox, and the nose can wear, allowing the bearing to tilt and give a jerky movement.

There have been posts about the release arm bushes wearing, allowing the release arm to tilt.

All of these will, sadly, require the box out again to diagnose.

Was it a decent clutch, and did you replace everything?

Yeah, I was going to ask that. I did my sei clutch recently and saw Eurocarparts had a transmech clutch kit for £27. When i googled the brand i decided against it...

Saying that I put cheap eBay clutches in two previous fiats which were fine.

thanks for your help. i foolishly put a transmech clutch on. everything was new with the clutch kit. as il have to take the box off again il change the clutch for a quinton hazell. il also change the release arm, got a new one. might make a nice clock out of the transmech. engine mounts are ok. best price for a QH kit i can find is £42.

Don't just replace it, assuming the new clutch is at fault. Proper diagnosis is the key.
A Google search for Transmech gets lots of forums, but no info from the company itself. For me that would be a reason to walk away, but could be a Euro 'own brand'.

Not so long ago it was popular to recondition clutches. Only the gentlest used were really suitable for this, but there were many reconditioners that would tidy up worn components and make them look good, although most would perform badly. Are Transmech reconditioned? If new, the prices suggest they are sourced cheaply, which is never a good idea with a clutch. However, if every one was bad, they would have ceased to exist by now.

Clutches are easily damaged if dropped. So don't accept any box showing signs of damage. The cover, if dropped from waist height onto a hard surface, can lose tension in one or more of the blade springs that keep the pressure plate in contact with the diaphragm spring. If damaged in this way, the result can be judder on take up, or a sudden grip.

The centreplate can be damaged if the gearbox is hung on it during fitting. The gearbox must be properly supported until held by some bolts. If the centreplate takes the weight of the box, it bends, then will give a sudden take up. A centreplate damaged this way will often tear itself apart quite quickly as it flexes.

The gearbox must be directly in line with the engine. The gearbox will locate on at least one dowel or dowel bolt, but with soft alloy casings it is possible to misalign them, then use the bolts to clamp them up, so cutting a new oval hole in the casing. The resultant misalignment of the clutch will result in judder, sudden engagement, and ultimately the centreplate tearing apart.

Of course none of the above are caused by a cheap clutch.

The gearbox input shaft splines should not be greased, at all. If when clean, the centreplate does not move smoothly on the splines, rub them gently with the softest pencil you can find, then wipe off all excess graphite. Graphite is slippery, but will not attract dust or dirt. Grease will fly off once spinning, and contaminate the centreplate lining. I have seen grease on a lining causing judder, probably a quantity the size of a pinhead.

When you get it apart, you need to pay particular attention to the points I mentioned earlier. A new release arm is of little value if you don't make sure its bushes are good.

If you post very good quality pics of the clutch components, I may be able to help diagnose.

thanks for the help.after investigating, the clutch arm can be raised about 10-20mm, im not sure this is meant to happen. i shal take the box off and investigate further but i believe the centreplate may be bent. out of interest, do you know where i could get new release arm bushes from?

I got the bushes from shop4parts a few years ago? Had to replace the fork after total release bearing failure then the fork mashing the clutch plate to get it home. Left foot under the pedal to lift it up.

I recently got the Asil clutch from Euro car parts fot about 60 quid. Made in Italy ☺

I fitted my third f.i.r.e clutch last month and as i was working alone I made a timber lifting brace across the engine bay. Then used a rope around the box with knots tied in it to help raise the box into position.

that sounds a good idea , i was thinking of doing a similar thing to put on the jack to keep the box level. did your timber brace work well? i would do that but i dont have any rope.

http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u12/1968s2/20160220_163814_zpsng5atdi4.jpg

It was only thin nylon rope about 8mm thick?

Would still be easier with someone helping but I found it useful.

thanks for the pic! i shall give it a go! i doubt my wife would help haha.

I have the same problem!

having finally getting round to taking the box off the thrust release bearing looks a bit worse for wear.
also the clutch fork has loads of play in it, i can move it 10mm up and down. should i be able to do this or should it be fixed? i cant move it on my other cinq. do you think i need some new bearings? you can see in the pic that the fork has dropped down.
any info would be great, hopefully get it changed and back together this weekend!

My Cinq had brass bushes and i couldn't get the bottom one out to change it. I'm sure I could do it now though... atc the time I was only changing them as I was fitting a new fork.

Just checked my sei for play and there is no lateral movement at all. But it is perhaps held in place by the release bearing when it's assembled?

I have a feeling they move that way when the gearbox is not bolted on?

Its hard to know if the bearing wear is cause or a symptom of something else? Is it melted? I thought it was just grease at first.

thanks for the quick reply!
i have another fork ready,was going to do the whole lot while the box is out.
you could be right about the play. im pretty sure the release bearing has been moving all over the place. il put the bearing on 2moro and check if the fork moves around.

I have a feeling that the clutch spring itself holds the bearing against the fork? Hopefully someone will give a second opinion though...

Omg I just went in the 500x section!!! I'm much more at home here talking about proper car stuff and not reversing cameras ?

I can't believe how some people are totally impractical and helpless with their new cars...

I guess your putting a new clutch and pressure plate in too? Which means it'l be hard to tell what caused this when it's back together...

Mine is on its 3rd clutch at 75k miles. The release bearing usually goes first in my experience. Or the pedal gets very heavy due to work hardened springs on the pressure plate according to other owners. This is what causes the cable to snap which is very common.

The thing is - does the bearing hold the fork on place laterally? To stop movement in the direction of the forks shaft?