General Sump gasket goo advice...

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General Sump gasket goo advice...

ukmh

...well Matt really.
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Looks like sump pan changing time. I found some rust bubbles, gave them a gentle finger prod and was treated to that lovely crunchy sound you get just before a tinworm disaster occurs.
Found a pan on fleabay for a 1.1 (I'm assuming all 1.1's share the same pan?) and some threads on here suggesting there is no actual gasket just goo from a tube. So what's the best goo to use for the job? How long should I leave it cure before topping up? Do I just wind the bolts up tight or do I need a specific torque?
Sei Sporting MPI if it makes any difference.
:slayer:
 
Yeh sump pans are the same for the 1108s.
This stuff from halfords is fine. Even cheaper if you've got a trade card. Also don't forget to use quidco/topcashback (if you use them).

http://www.halfords.com/motoring/pa...xhaust-repairs/loctite-si-5980-flange-sealant

Can't remember torque settings off the top of my head but it's in the tech manual (in downloads section) and I believe there is an FAQ with torque settings.
Just torque them up my hand, unless you have a low setting torque wrench but it's not really necessary.
That sealer sets quite quickly, just put a bead round the sump (after scraping off the old stuff) place it on and bolt up.

Sure you couldn't just wire brush back your current sump and repaint with some hammerite. Just because it's flaky doesn't mean it's scrap.

Get a picture up if your not sure.

Pirus
 
Sure you couldn't just wire brush back your current sump and repaint with some hammerite. Just because it's flaky doesn't mean it's scrap.

I'm concerned that if I investigate it too thoroughly I might end up without a usable car till parts arrive. Perhaps I'll stop wussing about it tomorrow and set the wire brush to attack mode.
:slayer:
 
What I've always done is put a good bead around the sump (loop around each bolt hole) then fit the sump but just only put the bolts in until the sealer is just starting to squeeze out (Id say 1-2mm before the sump contacts the block)

Then leave it for a hour so the sealer has started to set before tighting it up.

What this does is not only is the sump bonded to the block but also has a bit of pressure to it like a gasket would so should help keep it sealed should you ever knock the sump.
 
:yeahthat:

I replaced all my sump bolts with flanged m6 a4 80 stainless ones while I was there. Still look like new 4 years on, even if the sump doesnt.
 
Got to start somewhere ;)

Everything possible has been replaced by stainless.

Take bolt out, measure, throw away and screw stainless back in.

Next time you take something off, everything is still nice and shiny.
 
Looks like sump pan changing time. I found some rust bubbles, gave them a gentle finger prod and was treated to that lovely crunchy sound you get just before a tinworm disaster occurs.
Found a pan on fleabay for a 1.1 (I'm assuming all 1.1's share the same pan?) and some threads on here suggesting there is no actual gasket just goo from a tube. So what's the best goo to use for the job? How long should I leave it cure before topping up? Do I just wind the bolts up tight or do I need a specific torque?
Sei Sporting MPI if it makes any difference.
:slayer:

First of all cheapest pan I can find is 29.99 and 13 for a fai gasket but alway nice to use seal. I'm going to attempt mine over the weekend you need to remove mani to drop sump if you want any links just ask! Ps I wouldn't go to halfrauds
 
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Also my sump been pourus on all of it and I just used liquid metal to patch drained oil and job was a gooden lol jb weld is about 4quid ebay
 
Yeah use on anything just not on exhaust make sure you drain oil if it's leaking through first as jb is a liquid metal bond
 
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