Technical Just done compression test

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Technical Just done compression test

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Jul 22, 2014
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Seicento Sporting SPI 2000 mileage 63K

Here's my results (warm engine spark/fuel disabled)

CY1:
dry 180........wet 190......plug tip colour normal

CY2:
dry 155....... wet 175.....plug tip colour normal

CY3
dry 165....... wet 190.....plug tip colour bit sooty

CY4:
dry 150........wet 170.....plug tip colour normal.

So, doesn't look to happy but then what do I know :eek:
Any comments on the above would be appreciated guys...
Presume I'm looking at a new head gasket at the very least
Car runs very sweet but looses a tad of coolant over time.
No mayo in oil cap or dip stick.
No oil in coolant when I drained it last
Phil
 
It runs very well, nice smooth tickover and still quite nippy..
No steam or smoke as such...
Bit of dribble from the exhaust but OK when it's warmed up..
No major coolant lost, just a little over each week...


Phil
 
Usually a breach between cylinders is dry -- at least initially -- there are no water passages there.

Any coolant loss is a cause for some worry -- it has to be going somewhere!

Right....
When you said the wet tests might indicate valve issues, does that mean
the valves might need lapping and or stem seals duff?

Sorry to be a noob but I'm way out of my comfort zone with this...
However, I've 95% talked myself into doing the gasket myself using the guides on here:eek:

Phil
 
OK
I'm near Chesterfield North Derbyshire....

Just got to find a spare few days to get started...

Need to look for a local(ish) place to do the skim...

Couple of things, when I unbolt the throttle body, will it tuck out of the way and let the inlet manifold (still attached to the head) clear it or do I need to take all the pipes and connectors of and remove the TB totally?
If so, is the petrol pipe under pressure....

Other thing, I presume to send the head off for skimming, I need to remove the cam shaft and the thin oil pipe...do I leave the valves in..
Got most of the tools I think and have already done the water pump and timing belt so I'm OK with that end of the job...

Hmmmmmm.. very tempting to have a go as soon as time and funds allow:)

Thanks muchly again for the help guys

Phil
 
You need to remove the valve springs and etc.

Best bet is to label the valve heads (tippex, etc) after you've cleaned them, 1-8, and place the shims in order on a peice of card -- 1-8 again. Then pop the valves alone back in the head, ask the machine shop to re-cut them. Don't mess the order up!

Cinq Haynes is useful (probably more so than the factory manual) for these operations.
 
Cheers...
Just sent off for a used Haynes on Fleabay....

Need to gen up on re-shimming as that's new to me as well...
I can see the shims in the diagrams sat on top of the buckets but need
to find what to feeler gauge from to and the proper gap measurements..

Think I'm going to enjoy this:rolleyes:
 
Got a torque wrench and a decent set of sockets/spanners.
Feeler gauges I have but need to find the safe place I put them in..:D

So, just the valve spring tool.....
Will have a search for one..

Cheers

Phil
 
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