Firstly thanks for looking.

Underneath where the belts are on the drivers side of the engine, I'm finding little pools of antifreeze after the car has been sat overnight. Checking the levels, it doesn't seem to be losing that much but there is a leak for sure. I'm just about to order a water pump and I notice in the picture there are teeth on it, now this suggests to me that it links to the timing belt or cam belt, excuse me for not being sure if they are the same thing!

Basically, will replacing the pump affect the timing? Is it a job I can do in my mates garage or do I need to get it done by a pro?

Sure does.

Do check that the belt matches the water pump teeth (there are 2 or 3 different pitches). Timing is no big deal (see guides/FAQs/Haynes), but make sure that the pip on the cam pulley engages with the hole on the alternator pulley on re-assembly.

While you're in there, it's a good idea to replace the O ring on the water rail (where it goes into the back of the water pump, above the oil filter)

Thanks for the quick answer.

Will the water pump not come with all the seals and O rings it needs then? And how do I know which one to order?

I don't know what this means - "make sure that the pip on the cam pulley engages with the hole on the alternator pulley on re-assembly." But hopefully my friend who will be helping me does.

O ring is a seperate part (and differ from model to model). Best bet is to ring Big Mick at eorocarcare in Derby.

You'll need sealant for the water pump, too -- the design is gasketless.




If you hold the alternator pulley up to the light, you'll see the big hole in the middle, the three holes for the bolts, and a tiny hole for the pip.

Thanks mate, I'll get back to you on how it goes, and I will get in touch with Big Mick. He'll know what I need.

You should be able to tell if the o-ring at fault if you wrap a tissue round where the pipe connects to the pump and leave it overnight. Wet tissue = leaky ring, and no one wants a leaky ring overnight!

My fiat dealer had it in stock, and it cost about a quid or so. Easy to change.

My new water pump came with a gasket, no sealant and no leaks in approx 4 months

Eklipze3k said:

My new water pump came with a gasket, no sealant and no leaks in approx 4 months

Click to expand...

I should hope so! But the OE ones are/were definately gasketless.

Eklipze3k said:

My new water pump came with a gasket, no sealant and no leaks in approx 4 months

Click to expand...

I have a pump ready to put on when I do the belt, and it has a paper gasket with it - wasn't thinking of using it but interesting to hear that it's working for you.

Another possible place for the water leak to be coming from is the big 50mm core plug next to the water pump,ive had to do all my cinqs and easy to do and core plug is about a fiver and worth while doing while you are in there doing pump

Thanks for the input guys. I still haven't got round to doing it.
The car was regularly serviced before I got it, and looking at the other core plugs when we changed the clutch they were all fine, like you say though it's worth a check. I read somewhere that the water pump may need replacing after 40k miles and mine has just gone over 70k, and I'm not sure it's been done before so it might be just worth doing it either way. It's only going to cost around £20 so not a great loss. So glad I don't have a Merc or an Audi when it comes to buying parts.

Aye! Get some black instant gasket for the water pump, if you have no gasket in the box.

Changing the water pump is a cam-belt off job as has been mentioned... so change the cam-belt while you're there, unless yours is like new still.

A cam-belt only is about £10 so it's not worth skimping on. The tensioner too is only a bit more.. but if you have no idea when yours were last changed, then it's a no-brainer to do them both at the same time as the pump.

Before you start make sure you have the right pitch belt and water pump for your pulley.

Earlier belts had teeth 9.25mm apart (from memory) and the newer ones had a pitch of 8mm (so teeth closer together). You'll see easily if your belt has the wrong teeth for your new water pump. Checking the teeth on the cam-pulley is a rocker-cover-off job (though you should be able to tell by the engine number).


Ralf S.

I've just mailed Big Mick and my friend to borrow his garage for a day. Leak got worse overnight last night, the level had gone under the minimum by quite a bit so I had to top it up before dropping the missus off at work. I'm not sure I've bled the system right though, I loosened 2 plastic screws in the engine bay until fluid started coming through and it seemed fine but I don't know if it needs to be done while it's running?

EDIT: Read elsewhere on the forum how it's done and bled it just now with the engine running and heaters on full.

Why do these things happen just before Christmas?
Kind of a blessing in disguise though cos at least I'll know my cooling system is tip top before the really bad weather comes.

Bleeding is fine. Some folk like to do it with the engine runniong, but on Centos, it's not really necessary.

Keep a daily -- at least -- check on the level.

I've just been checking it every time I go out in it. Once had an Escort die because I didn't know it had a leak, and I'm not letting that happen to this one.

Big Mick says I'll need a water pump, cam belt, tensioner. I understand the logic in putting a new belt on, but how do I know if the tensioner needs changing, I'm not even sure where or what it is or does?

Pretty decent prices though, and I'm sure he said something about a forum discount.

The tensioner is like a big fat sealed ball bearing race on an eccentric pivot that tensions the belt. They take one hell of as beating, so wise to replace.

You'll see it when you remove the cam belt cover.