mark seicento activesport
New member
- Joined
- Feb 4, 2012
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- 7
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- 4
As none of the other brake binding threads mentioned the rear brakes i've started a new thread about my rear brake binding on, could it be because i haven't driven the car for about a month or two and so as the handbrake has been on for months which operates the rear brakes that the rear shoes have surface rusted themselves to the drum, so will a long trip sort it, i did a long trip and it squeaked a lot on braking then it got less the more i drove, with no squeaks at all after about 40 miles. Also i've been having to pull the handbrake up to just within the MOT level and use both hands to pull it up in order to stop the car wanting to roll back on a hill, does that help what the problem with the binding rear brakes, its only one side of the rear brakes(offside drivers), and as i think its the handbrake triggering the rear brake shoes(i imagine they're shoes) then the advice about pistons and calipers hasn't helped me so can someone help please, i mainly want to know if there's a quick fix as i haven't facilities to do any mechanical work on the scale opening the drum would need, i just need to know if there's a quick fix like reversing a bit with the handbrake on or just driving it to wear surface rust off or driving it to get the leading/trailing edge lined up or something, just a quick solution like that to last long enough to get through this MOT re-test i need to go back to as it failed on this rear brake binding the only failure and i've only a day of old MOT cover so haven't time for a leasurely inspection overhaul, i just want to have a MOT certificate so i can carry on parking it on the street as i haven't got a drive, once i get a nice MOT pass then i can get someone to fix it fully. So has anyone got any short-term simple solutions that don't involve taking anything apart. Would a well aimed knock with a hammer via a block of wood on the offending rear wheel(its not a fancy alloy wheel) be worth a try? or just carry on doing a 40 mile trip then straight to the re-test with everything up to operating temperature? I liked the cleverness on the flexible hoses acting like non-return valves but in my case the squeaking gets less and less and after 40 miles no squeak at all, does that point to rust being worn off like i think, because if it was a non-return problem then no amount of driving would reduce the unwanted affect as it would always act like a non-return valve, making the thought of the short-term answer to simply do a 40mile trip right before the re-test be plausible? If i don't reply quick its because i'm out driving off the shreik(it definately only comes from the rear, i have the windows open and listen to it) but i'll lookforward to reading all your replies when i get back. p.s I replaced a front headlight unit with a second-hand one and with no adjusting it passed the MOT(but failed for this binding), so i hope that headlight news helps someone who also had some clumsy pleb swing a fence post around in b&q car park into my headlight and you don't see why you should pay 4 times more for a brand new one when it wasn't your fault, as being second hand the headlight had already been on a car and presumebaly MOT'd so the adjusting being internal to the unit would be ok for mine, reason this headlight was a triumph was the adjuster was rusted and solid, so if it needed fine tuning it wouldn't have been easy, so don't worry if the adjuster looks stuckfast as like i found out it will already be within a a MOT approved level. Back to my original worry, can people let me know your thoughts on my binding rear brake MOT failure please.