Yep. That's what Aaron's fix, er, fixes. At some point I'll be trying a new variation of it out on a Sei, probably involving PU, acetone (my second favourite solvent!) and some plastic tube.
General Not giving up.
- Thread starter Pirus
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General Not giving up.
Yep. That's what Aaron's fix, er, fixes. At some point I'll be trying a new variation of it out on a Sei, probably involving PU, acetone (my second favourite solvent!) and some plastic tube.
One of mine has done this. :bang:
I just connected a small spring between the moving part and the outer light casing, this way it still moves with the adjustment servo but always remains firmly seated in the socket. Seems the chocolate fitting is not a unique feature to my car then...
It's hard to see at night when all your lights are good for is tagetting flak for overhead bombers..
I just connected a small spring between the moving part and the outer light casing, this way it still moves with the adjustment servo but always remains firmly seated in the socket. Seems the chocolate fitting is not a unique feature to my car then...
It's hard to see at night when all your lights are good for is tagetting flak for overhead bombers..
OP
OP
Project shall be recommencing by the end of the month (hopefully).
Thought i might as well share some pictures with you all and tell you where im actually up to.
Most of this took place back in the summer and due to the colder weather approaching the car was pushed back into the garage.
Pushed out onto my driveway and front bumber removed.
Had to drill one bolt out as it refused to move. Caked in WD40, plusgas etc but still wouldnt budge. Its currently a nice garden ornament.
'Old' rear beam was removed. Also finding where the ABS sensors go back under the car and into the floor pan just below the rear bench. Never noticed the gromits on my old Sei.
I was lucky with the weather forecast for the two weeks i had off (somehow) and cleaned the underside with some washing up liquid to degrease and wirebrushed everything.
Gave the underside a liberal coating of Waxoyl. Three coats in three days, with the good weather helping drying overnight.
Previously on the Shoebox it took 2/3 days for just the first coat to dry fully.
Always wear goggles when undersealing a car, they got covered in waxoyl drips.
With the rear beam removed and everything drying nicely, only then did i realise i had a minor problem.
When i first got Paws the front discs looked like they were the originals. So with my rear disc conversion taking the same size discs as standard cento ones, i duly put my new pair from my rear disc conversion on.
However with the rear of the car now up in the air i needed to get the discs back off the front and put on my 'good' rear beam.
I really dont recommend jacking the front up, whilst the rear isnt supported. Dont worry im an (un)trained idiot.
If i could get the discs off the front what would i replace them with though?
I grabbed my PGT discs and bolted them on. Minus the brake calipers, which were cable tied out of the way.
Putting the rear beam back on by myself wasnt a fun experience.
The handbrake was removed, was just messing around with test fitting. Wheels were attached and the car was then pushed back into the garage, with boxes of parts slowly building around it.
Due to the lack of space, these boxes (and several others that i have bought) have been moved into my bedroom since christmas.
Fuel tank was removed. Started plumbing in the brake pipes (as you can see from my Powerflex bag).
This is a clip that the brake pipe should clip into, so it is kept securely out of the way. I now have a hate of these!
Imagine the picture above is rotated 180 degrees so that the pipe clips into it from below. As i removed the old pipe i snapped one of the little butterfly clips, as you might be able to see above.
I thought they popped into the floor pan and set about putting a set of mole grips on them and pulling with all my strength / weight. The mole grips slipped off the plastic and hit me in top of my right eyesocket. Getting angry and feeling my eye starting to burn i hit the clip with my hand. Finding out that they are actually screwed onto the car very lightly. Only then do i start to note the blood running down my face.
Clip 1, Pirus nil.
Could i find an OEM spare easily that would fit? No.
Tried to explain it to some people breaking cars and it was too small a part for them to bother with, or they wanted silly money.
So I found the part number on ePER rung up a local Fiat garage. They must have thought i was mad, i ordered over £30 of assorted plastic clips for my fuel lines, brake pipes and anything else. If i got annoyed with anymore id just rip them off the car and replace.
No more them broke either after that, so i wasnt very happy.
Fuel tank had a leaky seam and needed some attention. So in my usual fashion, i just binned it off.
Nearly new, genuine tank with less than 500 miles. Coated liberally in waxoyl. Should hopefully last the life of the car.
This is all the pictures i have of the mechanicals for now.
The fuel tank is back on the car, with an interesting story of how i couldnt get it back on. Then snapped some of the venting system as well. Will post pictures of that next time.
The car was rolled out of the garage last weekend as i now have an electric garage door with a functional lock (finally).
However i forgot to cable tie the powerflex bag back out of the way and found out that it had snagged on my driveway, allowing the brand new brake pipes to trail behind the car, get runover by a wheel, get caught and are now kinked.
So looks like it'll be fuel tank back off and time to order more brake pipes and redo the entire rear end.
Near side bush on the rear doesnt look like it did very well in the crash but should be alright. Brand new Strongflex bushes and engine mounts sat in a box for now. Hopefully wont have to redo the rears.
Ordered myself a new oil cooler, had to send one back when ordering the wrong size. (nothing ever seems to go well for me).
Also have a new metre of braided hose to cut to size. The guy at the hose place seemed a little shocked when he asked why i had brought in the old sections of pipe in a carrier bag. Thought id ask them if they could fix them for me
No i got him to check over the unions for me and ask about hose types.
Minor breather before i start typing about the world of wiring spagetti and why i still dont like it.
One reason its been a slow burn project is because i accidentally did this:
Someone parked over a residents driveway whilst i was at work and i reversed straight off and into them over road. Very slow speed crash, probably not even walking pace.
Sorted and fixed, they now longer park there either.
Wiring.
I still dont like wiring, though i am slowly getting better at understanding the spaggetti like drawings.
I managed to pick myself up an 18FD ECU from a 1998 1.2 16v Punto and set about labelling all the sensors and figuring out how to wire it all up to a MPi Sei that doesnt really use a D4 for anything. (lots of help from Todger for this)
This is the engine loom for an MPi Sei; simple, easy and organised.
14 year old 18FD wiring, not quite so easy.
Stripping off 14 year old electrical tape and all the grime wasnt fun. I had a basic wiring diagram for an 18FD ecu from when Slugworth's 16v conversion was done. I also managed to find a wiring diagram from a haynes manual and have all the 18FD variants.
I even had to send Whitz this photo as i wasnt sure if it was the D4 connector (it is).
I got my complete car sei loom out. Tried to find the D4 section on that. There was only one trouble.
Due to the damage to bulkhead i couldnt remove the whole loom complete and had to cut the cluster loom off. This has proved to cause a little confusion and quite a lot of multimetre pinging.
The only trouble was i now longer appeared to have one on my Sei loom, i had to cut it off to remove the wiring. The D4 was trapped by the brake master cylinder due to massive wing and pannel damage.
Dug around in my garage and boxes / bags of wiring and found it. Only it doesnt quite have as many connections on the 18FD D4.
18FD loom all labelled nicely and ready to be taken to Todgers so he could help me with sorting out the D4 connections and trying to figure out if what i had done was correct.
Took the loom to Todgers and spend an evening with him basically telling me where everything should go. Turns out id probably bodged and mislabled a few wires. Got it sorted though and labelled up correctly and figure out how to repin the D4 so it wont mess with any of the 'newer' wiring of an MPi sei.
So project on going and will be back up and running in the next month.
Wiring still giving me a headache but have everything i need written down and saved away.
Boxes and boxes of parts have been accumulating in my house for a few months.
Wont be long now
Will keep this updated as i go along.
Pirus
Thought i might as well share some pictures with you all and tell you where im actually up to.
Most of this took place back in the summer and due to the colder weather approaching the car was pushed back into the garage.
Pushed out onto my driveway and front bumber removed.
Had to drill one bolt out as it refused to move. Caked in WD40, plusgas etc but still wouldnt budge. Its currently a nice garden ornament.
'Old' rear beam was removed. Also finding where the ABS sensors go back under the car and into the floor pan just below the rear bench. Never noticed the gromits on my old Sei.
I was lucky with the weather forecast for the two weeks i had off (somehow) and cleaned the underside with some washing up liquid to degrease and wirebrushed everything.
Gave the underside a liberal coating of Waxoyl. Three coats in three days, with the good weather helping drying overnight.
Previously on the Shoebox it took 2/3 days for just the first coat to dry fully.
Always wear goggles when undersealing a car, they got covered in waxoyl drips.
With the rear beam removed and everything drying nicely, only then did i realise i had a minor problem.
When i first got Paws the front discs looked like they were the originals. So with my rear disc conversion taking the same size discs as standard cento ones, i duly put my new pair from my rear disc conversion on.
However with the rear of the car now up in the air i needed to get the discs back off the front and put on my 'good' rear beam.
I really dont recommend jacking the front up, whilst the rear isnt supported. Dont worry im an (un)trained idiot.
If i could get the discs off the front what would i replace them with though?
I grabbed my PGT discs and bolted them on. Minus the brake calipers, which were cable tied out of the way.
Putting the rear beam back on by myself wasnt a fun experience.
The handbrake was removed, was just messing around with test fitting. Wheels were attached and the car was then pushed back into the garage, with boxes of parts slowly building around it.
Due to the lack of space, these boxes (and several others that i have bought) have been moved into my bedroom since christmas.
Fuel tank was removed. Started plumbing in the brake pipes (as you can see from my Powerflex bag).
This is a clip that the brake pipe should clip into, so it is kept securely out of the way. I now have a hate of these!
Imagine the picture above is rotated 180 degrees so that the pipe clips into it from below. As i removed the old pipe i snapped one of the little butterfly clips, as you might be able to see above.
I thought they popped into the floor pan and set about putting a set of mole grips on them and pulling with all my strength / weight. The mole grips slipped off the plastic and hit me in top of my right eyesocket. Getting angry and feeling my eye starting to burn i hit the clip with my hand. Finding out that they are actually screwed onto the car very lightly. Only then do i start to note the blood running down my face.
Clip 1, Pirus nil.
Could i find an OEM spare easily that would fit? No.
Tried to explain it to some people breaking cars and it was too small a part for them to bother with, or they wanted silly money.
So I found the part number on ePER rung up a local Fiat garage. They must have thought i was mad, i ordered over £30 of assorted plastic clips for my fuel lines, brake pipes and anything else. If i got annoyed with anymore id just rip them off the car and replace.
No more them broke either after that, so i wasnt very happy.
Fuel tank had a leaky seam and needed some attention. So in my usual fashion, i just binned it off.
Nearly new, genuine tank with less than 500 miles. Coated liberally in waxoyl. Should hopefully last the life of the car.
This is all the pictures i have of the mechanicals for now.
The fuel tank is back on the car, with an interesting story of how i couldnt get it back on. Then snapped some of the venting system as well. Will post pictures of that next time.
The car was rolled out of the garage last weekend as i now have an electric garage door with a functional lock (finally).
However i forgot to cable tie the powerflex bag back out of the way and found out that it had snagged on my driveway, allowing the brand new brake pipes to trail behind the car, get runover by a wheel, get caught and are now kinked.
So looks like it'll be fuel tank back off and time to order more brake pipes and redo the entire rear end.
Near side bush on the rear doesnt look like it did very well in the crash but should be alright. Brand new Strongflex bushes and engine mounts sat in a box for now. Hopefully wont have to redo the rears.
Ordered myself a new oil cooler, had to send one back when ordering the wrong size. (nothing ever seems to go well for me).
Also have a new metre of braided hose to cut to size. The guy at the hose place seemed a little shocked when he asked why i had brought in the old sections of pipe in a carrier bag. Thought id ask them if they could fix them for me
No i got him to check over the unions for me and ask about hose types.
Minor breather before i start typing about the world of wiring spagetti and why i still dont like it.
One reason its been a slow burn project is because i accidentally did this:
Someone parked over a residents driveway whilst i was at work and i reversed straight off and into them over road. Very slow speed crash, probably not even walking pace.
Sorted and fixed, they now longer park there either.
Wiring.
I still dont like wiring, though i am slowly getting better at understanding the spaggetti like drawings.
I managed to pick myself up an 18FD ECU from a 1998 1.2 16v Punto and set about labelling all the sensors and figuring out how to wire it all up to a MPi Sei that doesnt really use a D4 for anything. (lots of help from Todger for this)
This is the engine loom for an MPi Sei; simple, easy and organised.
14 year old 18FD wiring, not quite so easy.
Stripping off 14 year old electrical tape and all the grime wasnt fun. I had a basic wiring diagram for an 18FD ecu from when Slugworth's 16v conversion was done. I also managed to find a wiring diagram from a haynes manual and have all the 18FD variants.
I even had to send Whitz this photo as i wasnt sure if it was the D4 connector (it is).
I got my complete car sei loom out. Tried to find the D4 section on that. There was only one trouble.
Due to the damage to bulkhead i couldnt remove the whole loom complete and had to cut the cluster loom off. This has proved to cause a little confusion and quite a lot of multimetre pinging.
The only trouble was i now longer appeared to have one on my Sei loom, i had to cut it off to remove the wiring. The D4 was trapped by the brake master cylinder due to massive wing and pannel damage.
Dug around in my garage and boxes / bags of wiring and found it. Only it doesnt quite have as many connections on the 18FD D4.
18FD loom all labelled nicely and ready to be taken to Todgers so he could help me with sorting out the D4 connections and trying to figure out if what i had done was correct.
Took the loom to Todgers and spend an evening with him basically telling me where everything should go. Turns out id probably bodged and mislabled a few wires. Got it sorted though and labelled up correctly and figure out how to repin the D4 so it wont mess with any of the 'newer' wiring of an MPi sei.
So project on going and will be back up and running in the next month.
Wiring still giving me a headache but have everything i need written down and saved away.
Boxes and boxes of parts have been accumulating in my house for a few months.
Wont be long now
Will keep this updated as i go along.
Pirus
Oh yeh woops. Looking good
Oh by the way did you get my pm ?
Oh by the way did you get my pm ?
now that ladies and gentlemen is how you update.. nice one pirus, i look forward to the next instalment
Great to see this going forward again
Look forward to the photo of the new bolt down BATTERY STRAP
Look forward to the photo of the new bolt down BATTERY STRAP
Good stuff! I hate wiring too.
Subscribed! what a great thread! keep up for good work its looking great!
Thats a good update , I realy need to get my finger out and start on mine ,
yay
OP
OP
Thanks for the all kind words
Project currently on hold due to work, illness and saving up £.
Will be under way hopefully next month (sounds a bit like deja-vu).
Got myself a compressor (an Aldi special, so dont know how long it will last), a bunch of air tools and a few other bits and bobs. Looking at buying a small parts washer as well.
Been doing some thinking and being inspired by looking through Chalky's thread, i think im going to strip the engine down and do some DIY porting and polishing. Been doing plenty of reading and watching a few bits about it, going to give it a go on my old 8v head first. So if anyone wants a ported polished 8v head, drop me a message.
Would like to get this finished in time for Stanford, as i only live about 5 minutes away, but i'll wait and see. Im in no rush to get this done, id rather take my time and get it all done to a standard i think is near as perfect, no my usual bodgetastic style
Pirus
Project currently on hold due to work, illness and saving up £.
Will be under way hopefully next month (sounds a bit like deja-vu).
Got myself a compressor (an Aldi special, so dont know how long it will last), a bunch of air tools and a few other bits and bobs. Looking at buying a small parts washer as well.
Been doing some thinking and being inspired by looking through Chalky's thread, i think im going to strip the engine down and do some DIY porting and polishing. Been doing plenty of reading and watching a few bits about it, going to give it a go on my old 8v head first. So if anyone wants a ported polished 8v head, drop me a message.
Would like to get this finished in time for Stanford, as i only live about 5 minutes away, but i'll wait and see. Im in no rush to get this done, id rather take my time and get it all done to a standard i think is near as perfect, no my usual bodgetastic style
Pirus
It is starting to look very good!
Cough...
Damn it jules tell us more!!!!
Will we be seeing you at stanford pirus??
OP
OP
It's coming up to two years since I crashed my car (04/04/2012), so thought I best do a small update and show you all that the rebuild I’m still rebuilding it and taking my time.
Life has kind of gotten in the way and just left it in my garage whilst I gather plenty of new bits and find the time to crack on again. Got plenty of plans and what I want to achieve with the finished build.
The car will remain as a 1242 16v, though the engine is going will undergo a rebuild. I was contemplating a 1368 but thought I might as well stick with the 1242 for now, the engine is low mileage and the cost of sourcing a decent 1.4, then stripping it down and rebuilding that, I might as well just stick with what I’ve got.
Anyway that’s talking about the finished project, better to show you where I am at currently and the state of my garage. The car had to be rolled out as I wanted a new electric roller door fitted, mainly for security but for long term plans as a garage I would be happy working in.
The garage really didn’t look like it was in a clean state, classic plain brick walls and a cold concrete floor, which wasn’t comfortable to work on. I did a quick bit of searching and flicked through Pistonhead’s garage thread to try and find some inspiration.
After looking I had a rough idea of how I wanted the finished garage to look; I wanted to paint the walls in a neutral colour, just plain white, this was to make the garage brighter and appear more spacious than it is. The garage now has four, six foot tube lights in the ceiling and a smaller four foot tube light above the bench with a shade and painting the walls did make it appear a lot brighter.
Whilst looking through online discussions about flooring options, I chose to have rubber tiles for cost ease of use and low cost. Strong and sturdy, can take the weight of a jack / axel stands with ease. I found a company based in the midlands who supply flooring tiles, http://www.endurancemats.com/ they very helpful and I went to their office to look at some samples and chat to the staff. I ended up going back home and double checking all my measurements and going back to purchase and pick up the tiles. Was just a simple job of laying them out and cutting them with a saw.
Also bought myself a small compressor, so thats now plumbed in, with a separate regulator / moisture trap, connected to a house reel that you can see mounted high on the wall.
So with the garage now a comfortable place to work, I could crack on again.
I have redone all the brake pipes for the rear of the car, I really want happy with how they turned out before. The one piece that really annoyed me was the initial bend from the rear callipers into the trailing arms. Took me a lot of attempts before I was happy with it.
Ive had one box sat in my room gathering dust for the last 18 months or so and finally opened it and fitted them onto the car, one thing I wanted before; a brand new set of coilovers.
The rears have now been fitted onto the car and it has settled down nicely and the fronts will be fitted once the old engine has been taken out. The only drawback is I’m now going to have to buy a low entry trolley jack as the big 3 ton one I often use has no hope of fitting under the car.
The front of the car is now up in the air, the engine being ready to be taken out, which should hopefully be sometime this month. Then I will be plumbing in the front brake pipes and removing the ABS system.
Then it will be time to strip and rebuild my green 16v engine, which will have a few new bits inside it as well but I’ll explain with pictures nearer the time.
So project is still ongoing, just in case you all thought I’d seen the error of my ways and bought something more sensible. Will keep you updated with what I’m doing and any problems that I encounter.
The goal is to get it ready for Auto Italia at Stanford Hall, which I see is now called ‘Summertime Classics’, I think my car would seriously annoy the purists, it’s going to look a little chavvy and be very loud.
I was actually going to go to Stanford Hall last year but due to working non-stop I slept right through it. I was so tired that when I went over to see Todger the week before I locked my cars in my own car and had to call someone to bring the spare set to me but I should be there this year.
Pirus
Life has kind of gotten in the way and just left it in my garage whilst I gather plenty of new bits and find the time to crack on again. Got plenty of plans and what I want to achieve with the finished build.
The car will remain as a 1242 16v, though the engine is going will undergo a rebuild. I was contemplating a 1368 but thought I might as well stick with the 1242 for now, the engine is low mileage and the cost of sourcing a decent 1.4, then stripping it down and rebuilding that, I might as well just stick with what I’ve got.
Anyway that’s talking about the finished project, better to show you where I am at currently and the state of my garage. The car had to be rolled out as I wanted a new electric roller door fitted, mainly for security but for long term plans as a garage I would be happy working in.
The garage really didn’t look like it was in a clean state, classic plain brick walls and a cold concrete floor, which wasn’t comfortable to work on. I did a quick bit of searching and flicked through Pistonhead’s garage thread to try and find some inspiration.
After looking I had a rough idea of how I wanted the finished garage to look; I wanted to paint the walls in a neutral colour, just plain white, this was to make the garage brighter and appear more spacious than it is. The garage now has four, six foot tube lights in the ceiling and a smaller four foot tube light above the bench with a shade and painting the walls did make it appear a lot brighter.
Whilst looking through online discussions about flooring options, I chose to have rubber tiles for cost ease of use and low cost. Strong and sturdy, can take the weight of a jack / axel stands with ease. I found a company based in the midlands who supply flooring tiles, http://www.endurancemats.com/ they very helpful and I went to their office to look at some samples and chat to the staff. I ended up going back home and double checking all my measurements and going back to purchase and pick up the tiles. Was just a simple job of laying them out and cutting them with a saw.
Also bought myself a small compressor, so thats now plumbed in, with a separate regulator / moisture trap, connected to a house reel that you can see mounted high on the wall.
So with the garage now a comfortable place to work, I could crack on again.
I have redone all the brake pipes for the rear of the car, I really want happy with how they turned out before. The one piece that really annoyed me was the initial bend from the rear callipers into the trailing arms. Took me a lot of attempts before I was happy with it.
Ive had one box sat in my room gathering dust for the last 18 months or so and finally opened it and fitted them onto the car, one thing I wanted before; a brand new set of coilovers.
The rears have now been fitted onto the car and it has settled down nicely and the fronts will be fitted once the old engine has been taken out. The only drawback is I’m now going to have to buy a low entry trolley jack as the big 3 ton one I often use has no hope of fitting under the car.
The front of the car is now up in the air, the engine being ready to be taken out, which should hopefully be sometime this month. Then I will be plumbing in the front brake pipes and removing the ABS system.
Then it will be time to strip and rebuild my green 16v engine, which will have a few new bits inside it as well but I’ll explain with pictures nearer the time.
So project is still ongoing, just in case you all thought I’d seen the error of my ways and bought something more sensible. Will keep you updated with what I’m doing and any problems that I encounter.
The goal is to get it ready for Auto Italia at Stanford Hall, which I see is now called ‘Summertime Classics’, I think my car would seriously annoy the purists, it’s going to look a little chavvy and be very loud.
I was actually going to go to Stanford Hall last year but due to working non-stop I slept right through it. I was so tired that when I went over to see Todger the week before I locked my cars in my own car and had to call someone to bring the spare set to me but I should be there this year.
Pirus
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Glad to hear this project is still underway, slow is better than not at all
Garage looks great, if/when i get my own garage again i think i will make a point of painting it and stuff before filling it up now.
Garage looks great, if/when i get my own garage again i think i will make a point of painting it and stuff before filling it up now.
:yeahthat:
Will be a really good (re) build when it's finished.
Will be a really good (re) build when it's finished.
Nice floor. :yum:
Too nice to get dirty...
Too nice to get dirty...
OP
OP
Im afraid the garage is no longer as neat as in that last picture. All my crap has been moved back in there, leaving lots of space and a nice clean work area to strip and rebuild the green engine.
Obviously in the crash i dont know if there was an internal damage, though very unlikely i wanted to check, mainly to take the crankshaft out and get it balanced with the lightend flywheel and new clutch (it was never all balanced before due to time and cost). Plus there was originally a slight tapping from the head when the engine was warming up, so wanted to clean all the oilways and have a good look around, plus who doesnt like taking things to bits and putting them back together again.
So got myself a nice new, clean and bigger work area for this and moved the engine in there.
To remove the head extension piece, you need a set of 'ribe bits'- i didnt actually know this and was wondering why nothing i had would fit well. Nipped off to Halfords and bought a set, more expensive than a set if i'd had bought online, even with a trade card but was impatient.
Had some difficulty removing these two lifters, wouldnt drop out of the cam box. Had to push them out with my little finger by reaching across from cylinder two followers. Could explain the slight tapping i had before.
The wear is consistent and no score lines or pitting though. So will probably just blow out all the oil galleries with an airline and make sure its all well lubbed when reassembling.
My cam locking tools didnt actually fit into the cam box fully, had to remove some of the material with an emery cloth so they would fit.
Kitchen table work space.
Moved into the kitchen to try and remove the cams, I'd advise anyone doing this in the future to lock and loosen the cams whilst it is still attached to the block.
Ended up taking it out in the garden, protecting it with a few towels, whilst one person stood on it and another loosend the cams with a two foot breaker bar.
No signs of wear on the cam lobes, none rounded
Wary of wear for followers in cylinder number one due to the sticking followers.
Inlet and Exhaust cams both removed - going to be a slight change here in the future.
Flip the engine over and get the sump off.
Cylinder 1 bearing looks good, no real signs of wear, so probably wont replace.
Another picture of C1 bearing - flash to try and spot any imperfections on camera.
eBay special valve spring compressor. I did buy a secondhand C clamp style compressor but it doesnt actually fit around the head. So had to buy a cheapo tool, which i actually prefer to use.
Valves all removed, slight cosmetic damage to inlet valve number 4, this was due to the spring compressor slipping and me not using the right size bit on valve. Shouldnt cause any issue though.
Quick check of the gasket to see how much material to remove when porting.
Plenty of material to remove when port matching, will remember to affix the gasket so it remains central.
Pistons have been removed from the block, will get some pictures up soon. Look in okay condition - obviously a lot of carbon on the tops and not an even distribution either. fuelling was a little off when it was running in my car, obviously i dont know the history of the engine before i bought it though. Sill will give them all a nice clean in my parts washer and remove all the carbon.
Also replace all the rings, the oil scraper on piston's 1,2 and 3 all fell apart on removal from the block. Not sure if that bodes well, hoever all the bores appear to be nice and clean, with even wear and no signs of pitting or damage.
Next job is to try and move the compressor out the garage and fire up the rotary tool, might also try to use the dremel but it doesnt have the speed or the torque for this job.
Was going to make a DIY flow bench, following the designs in David Vizard's 'How to build horsepower' book but sourced myself a mk1 head to have a practice and gauge hand pressure when cutting.
So project is slowly ongoing, just because im not posting doesnt mean nothing is happening
Pirus
Obviously in the crash i dont know if there was an internal damage, though very unlikely i wanted to check, mainly to take the crankshaft out and get it balanced with the lightend flywheel and new clutch (it was never all balanced before due to time and cost). Plus there was originally a slight tapping from the head when the engine was warming up, so wanted to clean all the oilways and have a good look around, plus who doesnt like taking things to bits and putting them back together again.
So got myself a nice new, clean and bigger work area for this and moved the engine in there.
To remove the head extension piece, you need a set of 'ribe bits'- i didnt actually know this and was wondering why nothing i had would fit well. Nipped off to Halfords and bought a set, more expensive than a set if i'd had bought online, even with a trade card but was impatient.
Had some difficulty removing these two lifters, wouldnt drop out of the cam box. Had to push them out with my little finger by reaching across from cylinder two followers. Could explain the slight tapping i had before.
The wear is consistent and no score lines or pitting though. So will probably just blow out all the oil galleries with an airline and make sure its all well lubbed when reassembling.
My cam locking tools didnt actually fit into the cam box fully, had to remove some of the material with an emery cloth so they would fit.
Kitchen table work space.
Moved into the kitchen to try and remove the cams, I'd advise anyone doing this in the future to lock and loosen the cams whilst it is still attached to the block.
Ended up taking it out in the garden, protecting it with a few towels, whilst one person stood on it and another loosend the cams with a two foot breaker bar.
No signs of wear on the cam lobes, none rounded
Wary of wear for followers in cylinder number one due to the sticking followers.
Inlet and Exhaust cams both removed - going to be a slight change here in the future.
Flip the engine over and get the sump off.
Cylinder 1 bearing looks good, no real signs of wear, so probably wont replace.
Another picture of C1 bearing - flash to try and spot any imperfections on camera.
eBay special valve spring compressor. I did buy a secondhand C clamp style compressor but it doesnt actually fit around the head. So had to buy a cheapo tool, which i actually prefer to use.
Valves all removed, slight cosmetic damage to inlet valve number 4, this was due to the spring compressor slipping and me not using the right size bit on valve. Shouldnt cause any issue though.
Quick check of the gasket to see how much material to remove when porting.
Plenty of material to remove when port matching, will remember to affix the gasket so it remains central.
Pistons have been removed from the block, will get some pictures up soon. Look in okay condition - obviously a lot of carbon on the tops and not an even distribution either. fuelling was a little off when it was running in my car, obviously i dont know the history of the engine before i bought it though. Sill will give them all a nice clean in my parts washer and remove all the carbon.
Also replace all the rings, the oil scraper on piston's 1,2 and 3 all fell apart on removal from the block. Not sure if that bodes well, hoever all the bores appear to be nice and clean, with even wear and no signs of pitting or damage.
Next job is to try and move the compressor out the garage and fire up the rotary tool, might also try to use the dremel but it doesnt have the speed or the torque for this job.
Was going to make a DIY flow bench, following the designs in David Vizard's 'How to build horsepower' book but sourced myself a mk1 head to have a practice and gauge hand pressure when cutting.
So project is slowly ongoing, just because im not posting doesnt mean nothing is happening
Pirus
