Technical Strange Coolant Problems.. >.<

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Technical Strange Coolant Problems.. >.<

Stencils118

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Hey guys, as with pretty much everyone on FF I too have come across a coolant problem\heater problem.
After running my Sei for a bit, the coolant light comes on.. Now, I've bled the system correctly by opening the bleed screw on left hand side by the headlights and the bleed screw coming from the bulk head (Heater matrix perhaps?) and turning on the heater..

Now this is were my logic flies out the window;
- The headlight bleed screw fills up with water - good!
- The bulkhead bleed screw doesn't fill up with water - balls!
- The heater doesn't blow warm air - balls!
- The hose coming from the thermostat housing is cold (when coolant light is on) - hmmm, dodgy thermostat?
- Fan doesn't kick in - dodgy fuse? dodgy rad sensor/switch thing? dodgy fan?

Do you think I should take out the thermostat and check its operation before anything else?
Any advise/pointers would be amazing.. thanks in advance:worship:
 
Does it come straight on or does it glow dimly getting brighter the longer the engine is running?

Cheers

D

Urrrm, I think it just comes on straight away.. I'm just about to test the thermostat coz I think its not letting water through D:
 
Okay, as I thought..the thermostat wasn't opening.. so I changed it. I've bled the system, both bleed screws are filling with coolant.. But still I'm getting no hot air from the heater, coolant light is still coming on and no life from the fan.. Arrrrh!!
Any ideas? D:
 
MPI or SPI? The MPI system is difficult to troubleeshoot (for the cooling fan) but there was a good post in the Punto section which should help. SPI is pretty straightforward here.

Try bleeding with the heater on full. Check that the heater matrix isn't blocked (blow through it).

If all that fails, the water pump may have gone awol -- some Puntistas have reported the impeller coming off the shaft, I've seen one completely stripped of all blades because someone attempted to start an engine with a frozen block....................:(

A compression test would make seense about now -- you can pick up compression testers for 15 quid posted on eBay -- they're not the nicest to use, but will do the job fine.
 
Hi

If when you start from cold the heater (hose) pipes (with the heater on full) are not getting warm after two minutes then there is a problem in circulation and the pmp is the most likely suspect. The other is the heater matrix and rad matrix are full of rad weld.

The plastic impellors can turn into granules without frost problems. Donno what does it. If it is the pump try and get a 3rd part one with milled impellor, rather than a plastic or cast impellor.

Noel
 
MPI or SPI? The MPI system is difficult to troubleeshoot (for the cooling fan) but there was a good post in the Punto section which should help. SPI is pretty straightforward.

Try bleeding with the heater on full. Check that the heater matrix isn't blocked (blow through it).

If all that fails, the water pump may have gone awol -- some Puntistas have reported the impeller coming off the shaft, I've seen one completely stripped of all blades because someone attempted to start an engine with a frozen block....................:(

A compression test would make seense about now -- you can pick up compression testers for 15 quid posted on eBay -- they're not the nicest to use, but will do the job fine.

Thanks fingers..My Sei is a SPi.. I'll check that site when I can, I'm waiting for my account to get admin approval ;) haha. When bleeding I have had the heater on full and on hot. I was thinking maybe the problem lies with the water pump, but when I brought my engine (its 1.2) it had been fitted with a new water pump.. should I take it out and take a look anyway? :(
..Aaah I thought someone might say about compression test.. I bet the head-gasket has gone..which would explain why there's loss of power/lack of power on full throttle?
Cheers

Hi

If when you start from cold the heater (hose) pipes (with the heater on full) are not getting warm after two minutes then there is a problem in circulation and the pmp is the most likely suspect. The other is the heater matrix and rad matrix are full of rad weld.

The plastic impellors can turn into granules without frost problems. Donno what does it. If it is the pump try and get a 3rd part one with milled impellor, rather than a plastic or cast impellor.

Noel

Hi Pep.. I do indeed start from cold.. and the heater doesn't become warm... maybe its the controls/dials inside the car that's at fault? it does like to spring back when i've put it onto hot. ..if that makes sense D:
I don't think either of them (rad/heater matrix) are full of anything since they worked fine (before I put my 1.2 engine in)
I can't see why the pump wouldn't work.. I was told it was fitted with a new one.. unless they're really that badly made :(
Cheers
 
Hi

If it is a new pump you need to take it out and look at the impellor mine only managed 8000 miles and 7 months, it was a FIAT OEM part.. I think the impellrs are like wine 'glass'...

If you have bleed both the bleed points and got water out then there should be water in the matrix. But the system should not overheat even with a clogged heater matrix

It is not the heater but the pipes that you need to have your hand on. If the little bleed pipe into the header tank gets warm but the other piper stay cold there is no circulation p probably the pump..

You could try removing the radiator and flushijg it if it flows water from a garden hose well/freely then it must be the pump - or blocked engine passages...

Noel
 
Hi

If it is a new pump you need to take it out and look at the impellor mine only managed 8000 miles and 7 months, it was a FIAT OEM part.. I think the impellrs are like wine 'glass'...

If you have bleed both the bleed points and got water out then there should be water in the matrix. But the system should not overheat even with a clogged heater matrix

It is not the heater but the pipes that you need to have your hand on. If the little bleed pipe into the header tank gets warm but the other piper stay cold there is no circulation p probably the pump..

You could try removing the radiator and flushijg it if it flows water from a garden hose well/freely then it must be the pump - or blocked engine passages...

Noel

I can't see the pump being the problem..because surely, if the pump wasn't working the hose from the thermostat wouldn't be warm? as there wouldn't be any flow?
Cheers D:
 
LOL @ the last two posts maybe need some viagra.

put the heater on hot, open the bleed valve and wait for water to come flowing out, that should take care of the air lock.

i recently did the head gasket on mine, and on removal of the inlet, i found that the water jacket was blocked with a load of crap. this might add to your problem of poor circulation.
 
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LOL @ the last two posts maybe need some viagra.

put the heater on hot, open the bleed valve and wait for water to come flowing out, that should take care of the air lock.

i recently did the head gasket on mine, and on removal of the inlet, i found that the water jacket was blocked with a load of crap. this might add to your problem of poor circulation.

Haha, I don't need viagra!! :eek: lol
I know I definitely don't have any air locks.. as there is water coming out of both bleed screws now.. must be either a blockage, a pump problem.. or....headgasket!
Cheers for your reply :)
 
sorry mate had to get that one in, was to good an opportunity to miss lol (y)

- The headlight bleed screw fills up with water - good!
- The bulkhead bleed screw doesn't fill up with water - balls!
- The heater doesn't blow warm air - balls!
- The hose coming from the thermostat housing is cold (when coolant light is on) - hmmm, dodgy thermostat?
- Fan doesn't kick in - dodgy fuse? dodgy rad sensor/switch thing? dodgy fan?


so u now have water at both bleeding points, any hot air inside? do both pipes going to n from the matrix get hot?

do all coolant pipes get hot? is the fan kicking in? if not try bridging the connection in the wire going to the rad fan switch with a paperclip.. if the fan starts you know thats ok, chances are the switch has had it.

you shouldn't get hot air immediately as the thermostat has to open. once the fan has kicked in at the operating temp check all the pipes are hot. (providing it works, so be sure to check)
 
sorry mate had to get that one in, was to good an opportunity to miss lol (y)

so u now have water at both bleeding points, any hot air inside? do both pipes going to n from the matrix get hot?

do all coolant pipes get hot? is the fan kicking in? if not try bridging the connection in the wire going to the rad fan switch with a paperclip.. if the fan starts you know thats ok, chances are the switch has had it.

you shouldn't get hot air immediately as the thermostat has to open. once the fan has kicked in at the operating temp check all the pipes are hot. (providing it works, so be sure to check)

Haha ;D
Yeah I do get water from both bleeding points..and yes both pipes from the heater matrix get hot as well!
All coolant pipes get hot apart from the bottom rad hose I think.. and the rad itself doesn't get hot..
The fan doesn't kick in either. D:
When you say bridge the connection.. how do you mean? Strip the wire and connect the wire to the rad fan switch with a paper clip? Sorry if I seem dumb! lol D:
Cheers pal ;D

The reason you have no heat at the heater is that your cock has seized.

This is not a joke, change it.

Cheers

D

Okay, thanks RC.. what is a cock...? and where can I get one? :D :)
cheers
 
pull the wire out of the fan switch and put the paperclip into the terminals of the wire.

give the cock a try to as i dont have any experiance with that. but soounds like the heater mechanism is stuck on cold (cock) so wont allow the coolant to circulate.

if both matrix pipes are hot you should have heat inside at the blowers.

maybe your radiator has seen better days too
 
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