Hi

What he meant to say was remove the connector from the temperature switch half way down the rad between inlet and outlet connections. The connector has two pins bridge those to mimic the over temperature condition.

But the fan will only run when the rad is really hot.

If one of the rad pipes is hot but the other is cold the rad is blocked remove and flush with garden hose, then try a proprietary rad flush package suitable for mixed metal engines. Then remove and flush again...

Ate the hoses to the heater as hot as the hose out of the thermostyat housing?

Noel

its the rad fan switch onthe rad not the temp switch unless its different from the cinq sporting

i'm sure the coolant temp switch is on the inlet manifold

Hi

Ok sorry the temperature switch to power the rad fan on on the side of the rad between the inlet and outlet, on SPI engined autos.

The temperature sw2itch to turn on the warning light is on the inlet maniifold or cylinder head - forgotten which.

If the rad flows water freely and both heater hoses are hot then the engine may have a coolant obstrution, are you sure both heater hoses are hot?

Noel.
.

no probs dude, i thought it could different on the sei's. could it be possible to have a hose in the wrong position?

Hi

You could swap the heater matrix hoses around it would look a bit obvious, but should still work ok if you managed it.
If you blanked off the little return pipe to the header tank that could cause over heating problems, but not like this,
The rad (blocked) or the pump (kaput) or the engine (blocked) seem to be only options, easy to verify the rad.

Noel

hf turbo said:

its the rad fan switch onthe rad not the temp switch unless its different from the cinq sporting

i'm sure the coolant temp switch is on the inlet manifold

Click to expand...

If it's an MPI car, the fan is controlled by the ECU and there is no switch on the radiator. This, and a relay, is why they're a PITA to trouble shoot. The coolant temp sensor is on the inlet mani (blue) on the SPI cars, on the MPI cars it's still on thhe inlet mani, but right against the cylinder head (near the thermostat) and is green.

Notwithstanding all this, the fault is usually an earth fault.

Stencils118 said:

Thanks fingers..My Sei is a SPi..

Click to expand...

O/P thinks it is a SPI...

Noel

Missed that. Easy peasy, then.

Okay, thanks to everyone! loads of advise and info here as I need
I'll go and try everything that was said later.. thankyou!
I have a coolant temp sensor thing on the cylinder head if that's of any use?

This cock people are talking about.. how do I get one.. or replace it? I tried taking the facial panel off by taking out the two screws at the bottom but I still can't take the bugger off..are there any hidden screws I should know about?
Cheers in advance :yum:

Linton

Stencils118 said:

This cock people are talking about.. how do I get one.. or replace it? I tried taking the facial panel off by taking out the two screws at the bottom but I still can't take the bugger off..are there any hidden screws I should know about?

Click to expand...

I'm sure you get to it by removing the carpet like panel at the back of the engine bay.
It is a valve that controls the coolant flow through the heater rad.

Temp sensor should be on the inlet manifold -- on SPI cars they're usually blue.

As said, access to the heater is through the carpet stuff on the bulkhead (engine bay, passenger side). You'll get a cock from Fluffy the Impaler 01332 345869 or FIAT

Okay, so I took the rad off and gave it a massive flush, all is fine.. I've put everything back, filled it up bled it properly again..
STILL overheating..
It must be to do with the pump? or...what? :/

Both heater matrix hoses are hot,
Top rad hose (from thermostat) is hot
Rad is hot
I think the fan switch must be kaput as the fan didn't come on at all BUT, it briefly came on, on start up (after the coolant light come on, I turned the engine off.. and started it a tiny bit later)
I haven't yet done the paper clip bridging thing yet because I'm still not totally sure how to do it.. does the car have to be running? or just the ignition?

Also still getting misfiring feeling, still think that has to do with this cooling situation though i'm not sure -__-
I wanna fix this myself.. but I'm getting a bit demoralised with it and might resort to taking it to the local mechanics

On the SPI cars the fan circuit is permanently live (and switched on the earth side). So, the fault is usually on the earth side (if circuit). You can use the paper clip test engine on or off.

fingers99 said:

On the SPI cars the fan circuit is permanently live (and switched on the earth side). So, the fault is usually on the earth side (if circuit). You can use the paper clip test engine on or off.

Click to expand...

Okay, I'll try that tomorrow morning then... thanks

Stencils118 said:

Rad is hot
I think the fan switch must be kaput as the fan didn't come on at all BUT, it briefly came on, on start up (after the coolant light come on, I turned the engine off.. and started it a tiny bit later)

Click to expand...

Hi

If the fan came on at all the fan and the control switch may be ok. It will only come on if the circulation is good or if you leave the system to cook off. It wont stay on for long necessarily either, typically a minute. It tends to come on a while after you park (normally as you walk away from car).

The heater hoses would not normally get very hot if the pump was kaput, are they as hot as the hose out of the thermostat housing, they would only be somewhat hot on thermo circulation... i.e. if you had no pump...

If they are very hot the pump is okish, but if the pump were ok then the whole rad including the bottom pipe should be hot, unless there is a blockage in the engine.

I'd suggest you now need to inspect the pump impellor, you need an axle stand, a tube of instant gasket and a serial package to make a new gasket from, It will take some time as well. I assume it is a 1100 cc, and not a 900cc? If it is a 900cc just change the pump.

A garage may charge a fortune and change the head for the fun of doing it. If you have not run the engine with the light on and the coolant has stayed in the system, you (i.e. the head) should be ok, probably.

Have you had the car long? If not I'd flush the system with a proprietarty rad flush, when you get it working ok...

Noel

stencil's what happens to the gauge just by turning the ignition on without having the engine running? does the gauge go up or the light come on indicating its overheating straight away? if so i'd change the temp gauge switch/sender, not sure where its located, but could be the same as the coolant temp sensor on the inlet manifold.

if that knocks the light off, run the car up to operating temp and check for hot air at the vents and wait for the fan to kick in, if it doesnt kick in the fan switch has had it too. bridge the wires at the radiator fan switch too cool the engine down. if after bridging the wires your fan doesnt work you probabaly need a new fan. hope this helps

If bridging thre switch doesn't have any effect, try 12v direct to the fan motor, and get back.

If the paper clip glows red (and the fan works), the motor is fubared.

hf turbo said:

stencil's what happens to the gauge just by turning the ignition on without having the engine running? does the gauge go up or the light come on indicating its overheating straight away? if so i'd change the temp gauge switch/sender, not sure where its located, but could be the same as the coolant temp sensor on the inlet manifold.

if that knocks the light off, run the car up to operating temp and check for hot air at the vents and wait for the fan to kick in, if it doesnt kick in the fan switch has had it too. bridge the wires at the radiator fan switch too cool the engine down. if after bridging the wires your fan doesnt work you probabaly need a new fan. hope this helps

Click to expand...

Hi, the coolant temp light comes on after a few minutes of idling/driving, it doesn't come on as soon as you put the engine/ignition on,
I've given it to the local garage just for the meantime, I wanna see how much they quote/ what they think needs doing.. then I'll possibly take it back and do the work myself, if it actually needs to be done
Thanks for your response

HAHAHAHAHAHA...
Garage I went to quoted over 400 quid for a new thermostat (which I don't need) ..a new hose (which I can get for cheaper than they're selling it for../ don't even need anyway) and labour..
..and that is why you should do things yourself

Oh and apparently it takes 2 and a half hours to do a compression test...hmmm...

oh dear, i'd try another garage lol

i'd change the coolant temp sender and the fan switch. for the price of what they are. least u can eliminate those too.