so yesterday i replaced the brake shoes but on on there was a slight leak from it on one of the pistons so i pushed it back on and it stopped. but now the brake pedal travels down abit further and has to be pumped to stay? do they need bleeding or replaceing?

Change the "wet" wheel cylinder & put in fresh brake fluid, easy enough just be prepared to have to free off partially seized bolts / unions, do it when you can get to a car spares shop if needed or buy in advance / anticipation. The weepy cylinder will very quickly ruin the new brake shoes on that side so dont delay.

Personally, I'd replace both rear cylinders, the small / short solid brake pipes as well as the brake fluid. Probably a mornings work taking it easy with the right tools & knowledge...

someone has been at the bleed nipple and rounded it off so it will have to be replaced anyway Thanks

tryed replaceing the cylinder today but the pipe that carries the fluid is sezied solid and cannot be moved. whats the next step i could take to replace it? Thanks

tommol said:

tryed replaceing the cylinder today but the pipe that carries the fluid is sezied solid and cannot be moved. whats the next step i could take to replace it? Thanks

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You can the remaining of the pipe to a motor factor and they can make you one up and u just bend it to suit,.

didnt really want to replace the pipe :/ mot is tomorrow aswell lol just need to get that one pipe off

If it wont shift it wont shift, cut it off & change it as suggested. Job done...

might just have to then lol. I have soaked it in wd40 for now and will try tommorw aswell. Would it be stupid of me if i was to apply abit of heat?

You're making it tough for yourself dude... new pipes wont cost more than £10 for both sides & the MoT guy will see that you look after it...

but the pipes have still got to be gotten off to replace them lol

Lock off the flexi pipes, cut the solid pipes off & pull them through the hole left where the cylinder has been removed. Fit the new cylinders, fit the new pipes, re-fill & bleed the brakes (all of them, dont cut corners).

also wd40 will do nada to get em off just a placebo, plus gas would be better


as foxy said chop it off, on the other end of the solid you should be able to get a 6 sided socket on it


Ash

Or an 11mm brake spanner (6 sided, and slotted) your Motor Factor will have one. Note that on the end of the flexi section there's a 17mm(?) hex you can use a spanner on.

fingers99 said:

Or an 11mm brake spanner (6 sided, and slotted) your Motor Factor will have one. Note that on the end of the flexi section there's a 17mm(?) hex you can use a spanner on.

Click to expand...

*rounded off*

is the 11mm the one that goes into the back of the cylinder? and is it easy to make a new line up?

Yes. And you need a flaring kit. Ring round the factors locally and someone will be able to make you one up.

No need for a Flaring kit, just take the bits of the old one with you, a decent place will make one up for you, Flare the ends and fit new unions, all you have to do is the minor bends to follow the originals route.

Honestly dude, once you've done this you will always do it, it's by far the best option, you really do want the brakes there on demand...

are these the ones? http://www.eurocarcare.net/brake-hoses.html

Yep. If in doubt you can always ring Big Mick (aka Fluffy the Impaler) on 01332 345869.

which one would i need or are they all the same but you pick the flare?