I have deactivated my ABS as proved too expensive to repair. I replaced my rear bearings on my schumacher with standard ones (it was them failing the MOT that started all this), unplugged and removed the sensors, taken out the power from the ABS and blacked out the ABS light. Only thing I haven't done for complete removal is change the master cylinder. I wondered if anyone else has done this and got an MOT or should I spend a bit more time and money doing a full removal.
(Many thanks to cc1 for all your advice I just wanted to double check before I wasted money on an second MOT only to be sent away)

Once the ABS light comes on , the system should be disable and so should pass an MOT?

That is my thinking anyway.

Ming

mots normally have a time limit for you to do the repairs, if its within that time frame they should only test what it failed on, ie the wheel bearings. if its a full test now, well the breaks are still upto scratch, no lights on the dash, wheel bearings are now alright, I'd say go for it and good luck.

I already went back to the same MOT guy he said "you can't do that, if its got ABS its got to be tested for the ABS light" and "what did they do take the bulb out!" When we disconnected it the light just stayed on so we did black it out. If it came on and went out as it should then it would have passed. Any advice appreciated.

It seems there is database which lists what had what, IYSWIM.

I'd try another MOT station. Some are more responsive than others.

The speedo pods on Seicento's with ABS are a special as they have an input for the warning light. It is a surface mount LED that will stay on without a constant OK signal applied from the ABS ECU.

You have to take the pod apart and desolder the led. Or install a non ABS pod.

The first thing the examiner looks for is warning lights at ignition on. Then looks for lamps out at engine start up. Simples.

Go to another MOT station and say nothing about what has been done.

My examiner did not Know I had removed the ABS untill I told him. He said " You never told me that" wink, wink. Even though, I could argue that the car is piped up the same as a non ABS version and as long as it passed the roller test is fit for the road.

I have a 16v Bravo disc setup on the front and Punto GT discs on the rear. On the brake test the rear ones failed because the compensators have a problem with the setup. The examiner now won't use the rollers on mine and uses equipment to measure all 4 together. (Classed as custom setup). The reading gives 3 times the stopping power required to pass for my car.

These are the reasons for failure for an ABS system.

1. The warning lamp

a. is missing
b. does not illuminate
c. does not follow the correct sequence of operation
d. indicates an ABS fault.

If the car still has the ABS unit under the bonnet, and visible sensors etc under the car the tester is right to fail it. It would be a massive job to remove the ABS system altogether as you'd need to fit non ABS brake pipes etc.

You could always wire it up to the oil light!

sherbolton said:

I have deactivated my ABS as proved too expensive to repair. I replaced my rear bearings on my schumacher with standard ones (it was them failing the MOT that started all this)

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Just outta interest, how much was a set of rear bearings for ABS model?

blu73 said:

Just outta interest, how much was a set of rear bearings for ABS model?

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http://www.shop4parts.co.uk/?name=store&op=Details&ProdID=3581&sku=9737

£113 each, apparently.

or

Roughly six times the price of non ABS ones.

Cheers

D

OUCH! I have ABS on the sei, its only on 40k miles though so touch wood i won't ever have to touch them.. I know from experience even the hub nuts are significantly more expensive

Mine has only done 63k! Just looking for parts now to change the master cylinder. Good job we have 2 cars. Will prob be selling soon if anyone is interested.

Well if we are being honest the ABS is shocking, i can defo stop a no ABS model faster.

sherbolton said:

Mine has only done 63k! Just looking for parts now to change the master cylinder. Good job we have 2 cars. Will prob be selling soon if anyone is interested.

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You will need both rear compensators with fiting bracket to mount on the servo/master cylinder. A flaring toolkit, About 2 reels of Kunifer pipe with fitting, inc inline conectors as you will struggle to pipe the rears in one go with the engine in.

It's a big job...

Spending £300 on 2 bearings and a sensor might sound alot but when compaired to a full service at a garage it's not that bad.

At 63k miles the discs/drums, dampers, bushes, head gasket, etc, could be about ready if original.

I'll got the 2 bias valve with the pipes if you need and the bracket . Also have a old master cylinder, but for 25 quid you might as fit a new one!

Is the servo the same?

Ming

ycming said:

I'll got the 2 bias valve with the pipes if you need and the bracket . Also have a old master cylinder, but for 25 quid you might as fit a new one!

Is the servo the same?

Ming

Click to expand...

Same servo.

blu73 said:

Well if we are being honest the ABS is shocking, i can defo stop a no ABS model faster.

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Eh...ABS is to allow you to steer while braking.

The one thing it doesn't do is stop a car quicker.

On current systems you can deactivate it with a blip of throttle.

Dunno about the cento set up.

Cheers

D

rallycinq said:

Eh...ABS is to allow you to steer while braking.

The one thing it doesn't do is stop a car quicker.

On current systems you can deactivate it with a blip of throttle.

Dunno about the cento set up.

Cheers

D

Click to expand...

Just removing your foot off the brake does it after a second or three.

And happy birthday....Rallycinq

cc1 said:

And happy birthday....Rallycinq

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Ta muchly, feeling very old.

Cheers

D

yes yes i know this but it comes in far to early IMO and thus increases braking distance when driving 'spiritedly'..

cc1 said:

You will need both rear compensators with fiting bracket to mount on the servo/master cylinder. A flaring toolkit, About 2 reels of Kunifer pipe with fitting, inc inline conectors as you will struggle to pipe the rears in one go with the engine in.

Click to expand...

I was just going to get the whole thing with pipes from a scrappers (only £25) would that be easier or does it still need totally repiping. Just saw on ebay a abs pump reconditioned is selling for £325!!! quids in if I remove it