General She's back... Sei abarth high boost

Currently reading:
General She's back... Sei abarth high boost

Ok people, Got myself some new bits. Collected from Todger, 1242 16v pistons&rods, block, crank and few other bits. Thank you kind sir.
Now I'm a little confused as to which bits of which engine i need to put together. Do I use my crank and rods with the 16v pistons in the 1242 block or shall i use the 1242 crank and rods as well. Bearing in mind what i got is already in pieces bar the pistons and rods being together still and that both my car and this donor engine have done almost exactly the same miles.

:confused:
 
I'd just pop the crank, rods, pistons and block to an engine builder. Get it hones, new rings, tolerances checked, and some new shells fitted. Easiest if you get them to do it all....bottom end should be as good a new then, and will make the swap a lot quicker and easier for you, just swap the head over from the old to the new.
 
hmmm, should he not use 8v crank, 16v rods and pistons?
that was what i was asking really.. My intention was to take the crank, rods and pistons out of my 1108 and replace the pistons with the 16v pistons. Then put that lot into the 1242 16v block and bolt my head etc onto that. Will that work?
 
I'm not the expert here, so someone else will need to clarrify. I thought the rod length and trow were the same though, and the reason the CR dropped was simply the different head. Putting an 8V head on a 16V block will lower the CR, so I'd think my idea is right.

Wait for confirmation and don't hold me to that though.
 
Not only that but the dish on the pistons is more than the 8v ones so that will also lower the CR.

But yes my thought is you can use a 16v block with an 8v head (deck heights are the same as it's 8v brother, plus you get to use the sump extension :D).

Incording to the report that wolf racing compiled the crank, and rods are the same as the 8v brother, compression is lowered with the dish in the pistons, but raised again with the 16v head.

Use the 16v block, get it honed with all new bottom end bearings, rings, and seals (although I did supply low mileage seals).

Thanks

X
 
Right that clears up most of my confusion with compression, cheers folks. Can get the block honed easy enough, my mate has all the stuff for that in his workshop.

Back to cranks and rods, is there any reason why i should just take the crank, rods & pistons out of my 1108 complete and swap the pistons over and just not use the crank and rods i got off jamie? In my head that would mean not needing to go buy new bearings and rings etc. Or is it easier to rebuild this new crank than swapping the pistons over. :confused:

I just don't wanna spend what little spare time i have doing stuff that ain't really necessary is all but i want it done proper.

Oh and would you get new pistons rings? Jamie you'll know better than anyone else what condition they are in, i not ever had pistons out of one of my cars before so have no idea if they are good or bad, i wouldn't know how to tell lol.
 
Pistons will be fine with new rings (obviously a good clean and polish on them too whilst in bits), they have been out of oil and out of a block for some time so it's worth replacing it all.

I wouldn't advise swapping bearings around becuase they will be worn for that crank and the crank to those. Again replace to save any possibilities of a bang :D.

Oh and you can't use a 1108 crank on a 1242 as that is what gives you the difference in stroke. You can fit 1.4 pistons, crank, and rods into a 1.2 block (obviously bored out), because the crank corrects the stroke length differences to fit into the block. The blocks are all the same deck heights (not sure on the 1108 one though).

If you put a 1108 crank onto the 16v rods and pistons then you would need to skim the block (by quite alot).

Thanks

X
 
Back
Top