General Dans 1368 cinq

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General Dans 1368 cinq

Well i have a nice thick connection going to the same terminal from the battery so its still getting power from there when ignition engages. Its also a yellow top, so would take alot to kill it really. Cant wait to ssee what happens tonight. :yum:

Will have a look at what fuse it is when i fnish tonight.
 
Trying to figure out how the way you said to wire it would work? If the battery cable connects to the top nut then the starter is getting permanent power so should be turning continuously surely? If however you connected the power cable to the bottom bolt then it would only use this power when the connection from the top bolt is bridgd via the ignition wire?
 
Main power constant goes on large terminal you marked as "12v" on the photo. There is another small (spade IIRC) connection on the solenoid that should be connected to the ignition barrel last position. This small connection throws the solenoid and makes the connection. If the motor goes when only power to the main large terminal the solenoid is broken/stuck.
 
Right sorted it. You have to use the plastic block that covers the ignition terminal or the 2 nuts touch together and you get some big sparks. :eek:.

Wired correctly it turns over and tries to start. :slayer: Just got some serious bangs from the manifold.

Dont want to keep doing that as its not going to start i dont think.

If i had a bang from the manifold does that mean i will be getting a spark as too lazy to check now as dont have tools handy for spark plug.

How do i check the fuel pressure is correct without the car starting as i though that the pressure set via the FRP is done when idling? When the pump primes the needle goes to 2 bar then drops straight after it stops priming. Is that correct.

Sooo close now. Any tips?


Edit, Coils are wired the correct way.
 
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according to punto haynes 1+4 = green/white and brown/black
2+3 = black/white and brown/black

Guessing its the same through all models.

That was first check.

you re built your engine yes ?

engine timing could be 180 degrees out as there set mid-stroke so timing could be 180 degrees out due to that, it wont hurt if you try

and congratz on it turning over :slayer:

Ash
 
I'd say if there was a belt on it already with the engine and you locked it with the belt then you can;t be 180degrees out. (Well unless its was out when u got it already)

And you sure the crank pulley is in the right key hole :)?

ming
 
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Can you still get it 180 out with the timing tools. We were not sure if you could? The head stayed on the block.

Bit of a blonde moment;

If the timing is 180 out can i swap the coils to compensate to fire in the right place

ahh if you havent had the head off then the timing shouldn't and couldn't get around

brain has just gone dead.. just run outside and swap em over :p

4 - 2
1 - 3
thats what i did with hte cinq and it fired right up
2 - 4
3 - 1

Ash
 
ming could be right the way i got my original pully that came with the car on was that there was a clean spot on it that i could see lined up with the fiat stamped into the crank pully

as far as im aware they dont have a key on them like the 8v engines

Ash
 
You can't get the timing out 180 degrees as it will cause interferance.

Also the cam locking point is only at one point per cam.

Your coils must be wired backwards try swapping the leads around then try again. I had the same problem with mine as me and kritip guessed the wires when it came to coils.

Mine popped and banged and even flamed through the throttle body (was rather amusing but scared the crap out of us).

Thanks
 
The 16v still have the key in the sprocket :p as it still has a crank sensor.

The locating key needs to be opposite to the crank sensor once everything is locked in place.

If is next to the crank sensor then you are 180 degrees out.

ming
 
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