it being doing this since i put the 75 engine in my car...

ive just replaced the rear gearbox mount because when i pulled away it juddered bad, also on idle standing still the whole car jumps and judders and feels like the engine it falling out. but when i look under the car when its running the engine it moving all over the place.

All of the mounts are in good order

any ideas??

torque springs in the clutch plate gone?
meaning a new clutch

could be running on three (or two) cylinders try removing plug leads one at a time.

That's likely. Generally if the gearbox mount is fubar then you'll feel it pulling away in the lower gears, rather than all the time.

aint the clutch because its only done about 10k if that. and the juddering was happening when the engine was fitted, i will check the plugs, thx

The most likely is a coil pack there are two if you have two plug leads you can remove with no effect you probably need a coil pack. The packs opeate 1-3 and 2-4, I think.

A lead or a plug can go, lead on age, or damage, plug on damage although life is a possability, physical inspection may not suffice, to detect a damaged insulator.

The clutches can fail without regard for service history, but should not annoy at tick over.

Noel

One silly thought -- you did use the 75 timing/alternator pulley? 1242 ones have a damper, 1108 don't.

fingers99 said:

One silly thought -- you did use the 75 timing/alternator pulley? 1242 ones have a damper, 1108 don't.

Click to expand...

It is important to not remove vibration dampers...

Noel

Pep0 said:

It is important to not remove vibration dampers...

Noel

Click to expand...

where are these dampers, i have used all of the pulleys for my old 1.1 MPI engine and used a mk2 punto belt as told by you guys, might check the timing because i had the HG changed.

The pullys on larger engines are two metal bits with a rubber sandwich, this stops the crankshaft 'ringing' like a mug when you tap it with a Pencil.

The longer drive shaft has a large rubber device fos similar reasons.

The crank is more likely to fail early if you remove a damper, especially if you run at high revs, a damper allows a lower grade steel and easier finishing...

Noel

well nothing aint ringing, so i dont think its that

just so im right what is the firing order of the engine to the coil from the pic above

Should be marked on the coil pack. The engine goes 1234 from the timing belt as in your diagram.

There are -- in effect -- 2 sets of pulleys. The cam pulley and the crank pulley (which drive the timing belt) will be fine. The engine alternator pulley must have a damper -- you should be able to see a rubber ring when you compare it to a 1108 one.

But -- try the lead removal trick. It's probably not the firing order that's wrong, but a big fat misfire on one cylinder.

1-3-4-2 I think

Pep0 said:

1-3-4-2 I think

Click to expand...

Yep, that's the firing order (as stamped on the head) but not the convention for the numbering of the cylinders (which is 1234 from the timing belt end).

So plugs 1 and 4 are connected to one coil pack and 2 and 3 to the other?Noel

Yep. Pretty sure that it is marked on the coil pack. But (big but) this doesn't sound like wrong firing order, rather a plug/plug lead/coil not working.

I'd recommend the run it in the dark, bonnet open, look for blue sparks trick.

well ive got a spare coild pack in the garage infact 2 lol i will transfer one over onto it beings it dont take long

Hi fingersYes we both think that but warrier wants to play musical plug leads...Noel

you may have to swap plugs and/or leads to clear the fault.If you are going to trash the engine without the vibration damper then it may destroy the crank, eventually. The vibration wont be audible, but the stress cracks will propogate faster, because the crank will be free to vibrate at its resonant frequency.The 1100 engine will stress its crank less, there is less torque... FIAT wont have included the damper for fun...Noel