Technical Won't start

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Technical Won't start

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Nov 30, 2005
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Hi all,

This morning I went to start the car and noticed that the fuel pump doing the stuttering while priming had returned (may remember an old thread where it used to cut out on me - that dissappeared when the new engine went in and seems to have reared it's ugly head again).

Upon hearing the stuttering I turned the key to off and tried to prime again, only this time the pump did sweet F.A.. Tried again and again and I can't hear the pump priming. The engine just turns over if I try to start it.

The orange key code light stays lit the entire time the ignition is on.

I've taken the shroud off and had a good wiggle with the wires surrounding the ignition barrel and the transponder pick up. No change.

Any ideas?
 
Actually, Mr Rallycinq, I spoke too soon.

I went out to try it again and the stuttering while priming came back, but this time with a vengeance. It got so bad it got to the point where the pump didn't prime but there was this rhythmic clicking from a relay in the engine bay. Quick clicking, slow clicking, sporadic clicking. All the time this clicking was happening the red injector light was coming on and off along with the orange code light (not at the same time).

It eventually sorted itself out and primed. I started the engine and it soon died (as the problem recurred I presume). I restarted the engine and it ran ok. So I ventured round the block and notice that the red injector light is now on constantly. It drives normally, though the idle seems lower than what it's usually at when it's cold.

So now I have the red injector light up.

Any ideas now? :p
 
aye that means a sensor is ****ed, in each gear it will limit you below certain rev!

does the light comes on right away when the car start ?

Really you can get the ecu read for about £30 to £40, then ur problem will be revealed :)

Ming
 
Ah. :-( any ideas which one to try first? Or just give them all a go over? Battery in boot so that earth is back there with it. Others i can think of are gearbox and cylinder head nr coils. Plus the small ecu one, which I recently cleaned up - hope it isnt the cable itself... Any others?
 
Before I say "give that man a medal" and jinx myself again, I'm taking it for a long drive this evening and I'll pass judgement after that. However:

Just went out and tried to start the car. It primed and started fine and no red light to be seen. Everything as normal though the idle was still low/weak considering the engine was cold.

So I took apart and cleaned then reassembled every earth mentioned above. Funnily enough, the one I said I'd cleaned before (the small ECU one) was all fouled up again. I scraped off the crap and reassembled with copper grease.

Upon starting the car, the idle has returned to its normal cold running level and everything *seems* to be ok. :p
 
Bah. Did it again this morning. Stuttering when priming, but started. I managed all of three feet before the engine died. No attempt by the pump to prime, no lights though either. I hopped out, disconnected the battery (which, thankfully, wasn't too involved as the terminals are released with wingnuts) and reconnected after 30 seconds or so. Hopped back in and off I went.

Surely the earths couldn't have fouled up so soon after cleaning them. Any ideas if this is something more sinister?
 
Bah. Did it again this morning. Stuttering when priming, but started. I managed all of three feet before the engine died. No attempt by the pump to prime, no lights though either. I hopped out, disconnected the battery (which, thankfully, wasn't too involved as the terminals are released with wingnuts) and reconnected after 30 seconds or so. Hopped back in and off I went.

Surely the earths couldn't have fouled up so soon after cleaning them. Any ideas if this is something more sinister?

The badge on the bonnet?

Seriously, if it's the fuel pump that's causing the problem check the pump wiring.

Is the battery ok? getting it tested is free.
 
Hmm, it worked fine for quite a while after I had the battery moved. But it's worth a go. The wingnut holds down a spade connector on the positive terminal.

Haven't got time this weekend but will look into it next (and hope it doesn't mess around inbetween then :D). I'll beef up the earth lead from the battery to the chassis while I'm there.

Actually, come to think of it, could this be a weak battery (and possibly combined with high resistance connections)? After I did the engine change, the battery was dead as a dodo and needed to be charged (it's around 2 - 2.5 years old). And these priming problems only seem to occur, albeit sporadically, after the car has been standing for a while e.g. overnight. Enough time for the battery to discharge enough to affect the immobiliser ECU, perhaps?
 
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