Technical Tricker installed, high revs right off the bat, eep!
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Technical Tricker installed, high revs right off the bat, eep!
when i converted my missus seicento to 75 when we first started it, it would rev its tits off to 6k, the revs would fall and then it wouldnt idle and it would rev from 1k to 3k and back down by itself every few seconds,
turned out to be a damaged inlet manifold gasket causing a air leak,
turned out to be a damaged inlet manifold gasket causing a air leak,
I had the throttle body off my old 899 cinq once for some reason or other, exactly the same symptoms, had fitted the plate/spacer thingy under the throttle body back on the wrong way round, was sucking in air 
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Bling! Sorted
Switched the idle controller and it idled higher than normal but did at least idle. Throttle seemed to stick in odd places though, so switch the TPS as well and all is working fine and dandy. Cheers all for the assistance.
Just gotta run her in nice and gentle now ... time to lock the lead foot in the cupboard for a couple of days
Switched the idle controller and it idled higher than normal but did at least idle. Throttle seemed to stick in odd places though, so switch the TPS as well and all is working fine and dandy. Cheers all for the assistance.
Just gotta run her in nice and gentle now ... time to lock the lead foot in the cupboard for a couple of days
good stuff
IMHO put on a heavier led foot and enjoy your new found power :slayer:
infact skip that if the roads are as slippy where you are as they are here
why??? it wont make any differance. I take it you have reset the ecu already? (run engine till fan comes on then quickly turn engine off and disconnect battery (before the fan goes off) for 30 or so seconds)Just gotta run her in nice and gentle now ... time to lock the lead foot in the cupboard for a couple of days
IMHO put on a heavier led foot and enjoy your new found power :slayer:
infact skip that if the roads are as slippy where you are as they are here
To reset the ECU you need to fully discharge a couple of hold-up caps, after pulling power to the ECU this takes somewhere between a handful of seconds and 15min depending on who you believe. So just disconnect the battery for 30min and job done.
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thats why the fan thing works
ive had mine apart more then once (fitted the chip and also dug deeper just to be nosy while building megasquirt) there is no reason why you cant also just turn the ignition on (engine off) with head lights on and disconnect the battery this would also drain the caps. but I think the whole fan thing is so that your engine is as opperating temp when you restart the car making is easier to start with a blank ecu.... or something..
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Or just short the +ve terminal to the -ve, takes no time at all then. Used to work when i was woking on mobiles
(obv, whith the power removed )Kristian
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Urrgh, confused again. It's idling high at around 1,100-1,200 but I've not had a proper chance to check the vac pipes yet (I know they're in the right place but not 100% if I tightened the jubilee clips). However that's not the main issue, when I start the car the battery warning light stays on until I press the accelerator pedal
think your throttle cable is too tight!
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How much of a spazz do I feel? Was installing my induction kit, and noticed the idle controller wasn't connected :bang: :doh:
All running sweet now and idling at around 800-900 rpm :slayer:
All running sweet now and idling at around 800-900 rpm :slayer:
