Ive just ordered one off ebay, for my s reg seicento sporting, but ive just looked under bonnet and there seem's to be more going on than just the filter? lol.. you have the main box with the filter then pipes coming off to the right into another box?? are theses units easy to fit?? Ive ordered the right one, but it aint arrived yet.......

Daz

They're not that difficult to fit. Wait til it comes, then we'll see!

you mean the sensors going into the air box ?

they just decide how much hot/cold air the engine needs..

you just get rid of them when you fit induction kit

so the engine will suck in whatever air it can..
which is good in the sense that your air filter will be in cooler place..
so it will suck in cooler/denser air
which.. incase you didn't know
burns better so; more power.. depending on your tune obviously

All I have with the kit is...
1;A thick crome pipe that cennects to the to the engine.
2,A long rubber pipe that go's on the crank case and the side of the big crome pipe.
3, the air filter that go's on the end of the big crome pipe
4 jublelee clips
5, No instructions
6, Im not a macanic so a sore head.

the thing is there nowt that connects to the right hand side of the original air unit where the manifold brether pipe go's????

Daz

This the link thanks http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI....m=180228623547&ssPageName=STRK:MEWN:IT&ih=008

im sure ( fordcosworth ) has that 1. he will tell you were everythink goes.
cheas pingu.

i assume its similar to cinq sporting, so you just leave it . Enough air will easily get to manifold breather pipe and K&N (I know i know ant got enuf for gsr yet) instruction say just leave it !

ive just fitted it and the the right hand side unit off seems ok and go's a bit quicker also hope ive done right?

Daz:bang:

Sorry bout the quality of the images - but hopefully you should be able to make out where it all goes.

on the elbow end you need a bolt to block off the unused hole - just remember to put the nut on the outside, and check for tightness every few thousand miles :slayer:

aa cheap air filter

is ECU reset needed when installing intake kit with filter??? (removing old airbox????)

strictly speaking no, as the ECU has a learning facility it will eventually learn to cope with the new lease of life your engine has - however, I would recommend a reset to avoid any fuel to air ratio issues (like I suffered ).

Just incase anyone's reading this but doesn't know how to reset ecu:

*disconnect red battery lead.
*leave for an hour or so.
*reconnect.
*drive as you would normally drive - DON'T rag the car around if that's not the way you usually drive...

everybody is saying somthing else about ecu reset-i got this from "unknown source"

ECU Re-setting Instructions (extract from ***** Manual)
50 Start the engine and run it until it has reached normal operating temperature. Keep the engine running until the cooling fan switches on, then off, then on again for a second time. If at any time during this warm-up procedure the engine stalls, restart it immediately.
51 Once the cooling fan switches on for the second time, switch the engine off and immediately disconnect the battery negative terminal. Leave the battery disconnected for approximately 45 seconds, then reconnect the negative terminal; this will reset the ECU memory.
52 Once the battery is reconnected, immediately start the engine and allow it to idle for approximately 2 minutes. If the engine stalls during these initial 2 minutes, disconnect the battery negative terminal again for a further 45 seconds, then restart the engine and allow it to idle for a further 2 minutes. Repeat this procedure as required until the engine has run for at least 2 minutes without stalling; the ECU is then reprogrammed sufficiently to allow the engine to run and idle smoothly. Note, however, that it will still take a few miles for the ECU to learn the optimum settings for all operating conditions.


What means stalling exactly??? my engine is still stalling (with factory ecu)

Do I need to reset the ECU? because the car drive's a lot better than it did before I fittec the airfilter? What would happen if I didnt reset the ECU? Ive been driving round for 4 days now. whoops........

Daz

dazzer01 said:

Do I need to reset the ECU? because the car drive's a lot better than it did before I fittec the airfilter? What would happen if I didnt reset the ECU? Ive been driving round for 4 days now. whoops........

Daz

Click to expand...

no you don't need to - the ecu will eventually learn to deal with the changes, but in the short term it will not be making best use of the changes you've made.

I found that mine felt like it was running a little lean until I reset the ecu, which is probably why it mashed one of my lambdas

Ronnie the way you discribe how to reset the ecu, is different, but not as much messing about as the other guy's way? doe's your's do the same thing? and whats a mashed lambda???

Dazzer cheers for all the advice aswell.... :slayer:

dazzer01 said:

Ronnie the way you discribe how to reset the ecu, is different, but not as much messing about as the other guy's way? doe's your's do the same thing? and whats a mashed lambda???

Dazzer cheers for all the advice aswell.... :slayer:

Click to expand...

The other way is the official way - mine is cheating - both yeild the same result.
Think of the ecu as if it were a pc:

A pc has ROM (read only memory) - or a control chip (incidentally some people replace or remap this chip the alter the ecu's instruction set).
It also has RAM (random access memory - which will only store it's contents if it has power going to it.
When you disconnect the ecu from the battery power, you are in effect clearing the ram to the car's computer - so it forgets the driver's settings if you will.
The car then loads up the default mapping for the engine and goes into learn mode to adapt to any differences, and saves this information in the RAM.
The re-learning process takes about 100-300 miles after a reset - but this process takes much longer for the engine to adapt to changes if a reset has not been performed, as the car simply assumes that everything is normal.

To answer your other question, a lambda sensor lives on the engine end of your exhaust system and monitors co2 levels so that the car can control things like emmisions by altering the fuelling.
Only problem is that if you add an induction kit (and you do it properly) you are forcing cold(er) air into the engine - which burns faster than warm/hot air - and as a result requires more fuel to be sent to the engine.
If you are forcing the car to have more fuel than it thinks it needs (or at least trying to), then basically one of two things happens -
*The car doesn't adapt, doesn't give you the extra fuel, and the engine ends up running lean for the airflow it's receiving (and as a result will stress a lot of the engine componants out, and make the car run hotter).
*The car partially adapts, but you end up frying certain sensors (this is particularly noticeable if these components are coming to the end of their lifespan anyway - which I'm guessing is what happened to mine).

Mashed = FUBAR

Sorry about the huge post -
Hope this helps!

Cheers Ronnie, all alot more clearer now.
Just one more question if you dont mind.
You mentioned more cold air with the induction kit?
but its sat under the bonnet where its nice and hot?
So where's does it get it's cold air from? as I disconected
all the pipes where it grabed it cold air from (Front grill)
Sorry to mither! last question mate......... Honest ha ha

Dazzer :worship:

yes the engine bay is hot.. but basically.. with an induction kit..
the intake is moved to a cooler part of the engine than standard..

cool air is denser.. so burns better

ok thanks for that buddy

dazzer

Better: cool air is denser than hot air, therefore a given quantity contains more oxygen (more everything else as well, but it's the O2 that's important) therefore the fuel burns better.