Now then peeps,

Need to get my driveshafts off... Problem is i can't get the hub-nut off.
Looking in my haynes, it says to use a punch or similar to push out the buts of the hub-nut that are bent into the recess'. Problem is i have broken multiple punches and numerous screwdrivers and anyting else that i have tried to use has just bent or snapped. Any ideas what won't break?

What about using the corner of a small bolster chisel?

Ricky

You are only trying to bend up the two tabs that are staked into the driveshaft. Should not take any great force to do so. Small flat chisel does the job perfectly.

Cheers

D

Thought it'd be easy to but seems well strong.. Haven't tried chisel though, good plan. Shall have to buy/borrow some. Forgive my questions but whats a bolster chisel exactly

I've always found the factory put on ones very difficult to do. Poor quality punches will just bend or snap. Lump hammer, quality punch and thick gloves!

I've recently discovered a type of cold chisel with a flat but 60 degree angled blade which I intend to grind down to fit the slots in the half shafts. Should make it a doddle!

Well the ones on the red shell are from factory ones, and they are not coming off, but thats no worry as everything is being swapped from the tub. But need to get the ones off the tub, they look easier to get off tbh but not had no joy so far, will try find a suitable chisel later on and see how goes, cheers people

Had a mate doing mine (not done at the factorym previous owner did them up again) and it took him a good 1/2h of swearing using a hammer and a very strong screwdriver.

Maybe I'm just lucky, the chisel I use fitts the groove in the shaft perfectly and just needs driven in with a beating stick to pop the tabs up.

Profanity always helps.

Cheers

D

When my mate Milan undoes a stiff nut or bashes something with a hammer, it always sounds like:

BASTARD! (grunt) FASCIST! (grunt) HITLER! (grunt)

Seems to help him!

sorry mate i should of explain what a bolster chilsel is...it a flat chilsel that is used to chip away concrete, cement etc. the chilsel itself is made from a tungsel steel, you can buy them in different sizes at any d.i.y shop. using the corner of the chilsel blade should do it. i done it with mine and other cars on many occasions.

Hope that helps

Ricky

TBH Ive never had a problem just seriously abusing the nut with a decent socket, extension bar and extension bar extension (looking at 1.5*60*9.8=900Nm torque when stood on end of bar at horizontal).

The nuts are normally not steel, and the driveshaft ends are hardened - so you can break the castellations off with brute force without damaging the driveshaft end.

arseofbox said:

TBH Ive never had a problem just seriously abusing the nut with a decent socket, extension bar and extension bar extension (looking at 1.5*60*9.8=900Nm torque when stood on end of bar at horizontal).

The nuts are normally not steel, and the driveshaft ends are hardened - so you can break the castellations off with brute force without damaging the driveshaft end.

Click to expand...

Yes, providing you've still got the wheels on the car and all the weight of the front of the car is on that wheel.

Cheers

D

hmmm.. i thought u always losen a hub nut that way, leaving the car on the ground ???


Ming

Yes probably the sensible thing to do, do it on the ground. Unfortunately i've been a bit haphazard with my approach to the reshell so both cars are on axle stands already without wheels.

@ Rallycinq: don't suppose you know the size of this magic chisel off the top of your head? I'm gonna go get a set of chisels coz i have none, would be good to get a set with exactly the right size

Just put some calipers across the groove in the driveshaft: that's the size you need, ideally. I'll pop up a picture of wierd cold chisel I'll be grinding down tonight, but, essentially, it's like a cold chisel that's been hammered flat for an inch or so at the tip, more or less the width of the body, and then cut back at about 60 degrees.

i know i can just measure the gap, was just being lazy incase he knew. Was thinking i would go get some on way home so wouldn't be able to measure unless i leave it for another time. its no biggy though.

i would get a cold chisel about 1/2 inch wide and with a blade that is as flat as possible and use the corner of the blade.

Ricky

coolio, i'll have a look on way home

This is what I will use. Called a grooved plugging chisel (maybe a brickies tool?). The grove is about 1/4". The head on this is a bit too broad and needs to be taken down with a grinder.

great idea mate