General Seicento 16v Starter Moter Q.

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General Seicento 16v Starter Moter Q.

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HI all,

As some of you may or may not be aware I have a highly modified 1242 16v in my Sei mpi sporting.

I'm a little unsure about the correct starter motor to use.

To my knowlege its currently on a stock 1108 mpi starter.

Would it be wise to upgrade to a 1242 16v or 1368 16v starter as am sure have heard mentioned there are differences.

Car starts on the button everytime when driven regular however,

If it is left for 3 days plus takes a good 3-5 seconds to catch before firing up. (This isn't often for me but annoying). Has only done it since engine convo.

Batt was new 18 months ago and alternator seems to be charing fine, runs consistently above 14 v with no aux systems on. Runs at no lower than 13.5 with full lights inc fog/full beam etc.

Just seems odd, could be bad contacts, but seems like another issue to me! Just thinking correct starter motor would be a good place to start as I understand the 85 16v has a faster crank starting speed than 1108.

Thanks in advance. J
 
The 1108cc is 0.8Kw, the 1368cc is 1Kw, goodness knows what the 1242 16v is, 0.9 :p ?! Think dave the trike talks about them in his Supercharged Punto thread, but can't recall from the top of my head.

I used to run the 0.8kw starter on mine 1242 without issue, but yours may be on the way out or it could be something else. It could even be to do with your very light flywheel not building up enough momentum.


A 1368cc starter motor is a direct swap, I have a spare 0.8Kw if you want to borrow it to try.


Could be a whole bunch of things though.

Kristian
 
Is the engine turning over cleanly but not catching?

I have a problem where the engine will just turn over cleanly for several seconds then burst into life or sound like it's caught and as soon as the starter is released the engine will stall. When it does this the fuel pressure is pulsing to, but not steady at, 45psi.
 
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Thanks for the replies.

That would prob explain an aspect of it. Car is running a CR of around 11:1 similiar to the 1368 16v as opposed to the 1242 16v's 10.4:1 or there abouts to improve torque.

What would be the better starter to go for 1368 or 1242 16v one?

J
 
Just seems odd starts on the button if driven daily, also short term ie. if I turn off to put fuel in, then start up. Even if I leave for like 3 days is normally fine. Surely if it was down to the flywheel it would be like this at all times.

If anything it gets better the more the car is used.

It got to the extent this morning (car had not been started for the whole week) where I had to crank it a few times and press the accelerator, then there was a little smoke (from left over fuel at a guess). Wasn't happy.

Would like to get this sorted and have neglected the car loads the last months due to no time.

I am also in need of cleaning / replacing the idle control valve as am not happy with it.

Thanks for the offer re starter motor Kristian and for replies everyone.
 
If your getting a starter new, then the 1368cc no doubt. It's bound to be at least equal or more powerful than the 1242.


//edit - you got an alarm etc? I was researching batteries, and they loose a lot of power in a few day, then kind of level out, due to drains on the battery. Even though it is new, maybe a higer capacity battery in the boot, or a red top battery for crazy high CCA could sort it.

Good thing is, leave it a few days, when you would normally get the prob, and jump it witha second battery. No issues starting and you know where to look :)
 
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Well if Kristian can do it on a 1368 then i'm sure the Sei batt will be up to the job.

Looks like I could be looking around the £110 mark. Not bad really.

But going to go mapping first as fuelling still far from perfect, check icv, contacts, charge etc. The if still at a loss will try new starter.

:)
 
If it turns over at the same speed after 3 days then it could be some thing else.
Try turning the ignition on and off a few times to prime the fuel lines. Shouldn't realy de-pressurise but if it does then the pump could be on it's way out or fuel injector seat/s worn.
 
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Brand new 3 bar pump inc. sender went in back in November so should be very good.

It definately seems to crank slower when it is left for longer. And naturally the more time it is cranked for the more the battery voltage starts to drop on cranking.
 
Sounds like the battery may be on the way out. Do as kristian said regarding battery boosting.
Batteries don't last as long as you would like to think. Only the heavy duty cyclic fork lift/mobile platform type batteries are designed for long term use and even these can fail early. Expensive as well. Works out at about a pound an amp/hour for a 12v one.
 
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I don't find the 3.5kg flywheel any more difficult at all, just makes the car jump more, if you are rough with the clutch at low speeds naturally. Its easy when u been driving single seaters and the like though - now they are a pig!

Yeah I would have to agree starting to sway more towards a poor battery or current loss rather than bad starter. IF the starter was bad then I don't see why it would crank badly most of the time.

I don't have anything like a multimeter or any experience come to that! :(

Like I say batt is approx 18 months old, but car was sat for about 5 months shortly after it was fitted while engine went in so I guess that prob didn't do it any good!

And Brooky, pm just said head was skimmed to max, not beyond to my knowlege. Although I didn't rebuild it personally.

J
 
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