Before we start I am not going into too much detail here as many of the routines are simillar others posted.
1. Nip down to your local motorist discount shop and invest in an 8mm allen key or socket - the type with the ball end so that you can attack allen screws from angles other than 90 degrees or straight on. This is crucial to making the job easier as the bolts not only have a 16mm hex head but the 8mm socket too.
2. You can only get to the alternator by jacking up the car and removing the right front wheel and the plastic inner wheel arch covers (seems almost all the jobs I have to do involve doing this)
3. You will now see the alternator nested neatly in the top right hand corner of the gap, along with the two bolts: The bottom mounting bolt is easy to get at, it is the adjusting bolt at the top that is the pig.
Removing the alternator
1. Disconnect the earth lead from the battery (for safety - don't want to be shorting any electrics here do we?). Discoonect the two wires from the back of the alternator (one is a simple terminal and the other is bolted on). This done you can attck the mounting bolts.
2. You will need to initially loosten the mounting bolts with a 16mm spanner as the allen key won't be beefy enough. However, when loostening the top adjusting bolt use an open ended spanner and not a ring spanner. The reason is it gets trapped by the drive belt and wont budge, which means you have to cut the belt like I did (I was replacing the belt anyway, but that's not the point)
3. Once loostened you will find it easier to continue to remove them with the allen key. Fully remove the bottom mounting bolt first and then the top adjusting bolt.
4. You will find that in the final stages this bolt will foul the engine mount, but by holding the alternator at an angle and with some patience you should be able to get the bolt out.
Putting it back
This is where my FIAT mate got cocky: "Yeah it comes out ok but it won't go back herrrr herrrr herr". WRONG!!!! it will and here's how.
1. Take the bolt you intend to use as the top adjuster bolt at cut approx 0.5cm off the end (that's half a cm not 5) - there is plenty of thread on the bolt and cutting this off the end makes no difference.
2. Carefully file the end of the bolt and the lead in to the thread to make screwing back easier and to avoid it becoming cross treaded. If you don't there is a chance it may go in cross threaded and knacker it all up. It is an idea to try it in the screw thread without the alternator first to see how easy it goes back in. If it won't a bit more work is needed.
3. You will find the top bolt goes back in easy peasy, especially if you do the majority of the tightening up with the allen key. It is easier to use this whilst keeping tension on the drive belt, and will nip it up sufficently to stop it moving whilst you get the spanner on it.
Final Stages
1. Conect all the electrics back up, replace the plastic wheel arch bits and stick the wheel back on
2. And remember always use axle stands when working under your car - never rely solely on the jack.
Why Bother?
Yes I know that the engine mount is only three bolts, but you have to find a way of supporting the engine without the mount. Easy when you are a main dealer full of equipment, not so easy at home; and I dont fancy renting a hoist just for this either.
The only other way is a trolly jack under the sump (feasible - but not really recomended that one).
Plus once it is done, it is done for good and you never know when you might need to remove the alternator again.