Technical HOWTO: Checking Driveshaft wear

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Technical HOWTO: Checking Driveshaft wear

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Aug 31, 2006
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Ok, so after having strange grinding noises coming from my N/S wheel, and determining that its definitely my driveshaft, it's time for a closer look.

I thought I'd document this, to help anyone else who has a similar problems!

1st!!
Remove the shaft from the car using a haynes manual for guidance, remember that the gearbox oil will leak when you do this, and DO NOT let the shaft hang down on it's own, you may well damage the CV joints and Boots.

There are many ways to check driveshaft wear without dismantling it, however I always choose to see it with my own two eyes. Also, once dismantled, you can replace parts if necessary.

To do this I used:
  • A spare driveshaft (so i can still use the car!!)
  • Flat Headed Screw driver, about 5mm in width
  • Scissors
  • Circlip Pliers
  • Engine Degreasant (Gunk/Tetro)
  • Paint Brush
  • Lots of space
  • Plastic Container
  • Plenty of patience
  • Protective sheeting
  • Paper towel/rags

Place the driveshaft ready on a protective sheet! Make sure all your tools are to hand, and prepare to get messy!
DSCF0001.jpg


You'll need to remove the metal retaining clip from the large end of the CV boot. Be careful not to damage the rubber whilst doing this if you intend to keep the boot! (The boot may be secured using a cable tie, if this is the case, just snip it off!)
DSCF0002.jpg


Repeat this process for the other 3 securing bands, and slide the boots towards the middle of the shaft.
DSCF0003.jpg


On the outer edge of the shaft (The threaded end) the Constant Velocity joint is of a ball and cage type, the inner is tripod type (see pic).
The inner end of the shaft should just slide off of the tripod. Store this to one side for a minute.
DSCF0006.jpg


Next, you will need to find the circlip in the the cage.
DSCF0004.jpg

Shaft already removed to show the circlip on this one!
DSCF00052.jpg

Mark the alignment of the shaft onto the cage (for re-assmbly), then open the circlip* and pull the driveshaft out of the cage. The circlip remains in positon. Pour gunk into the end of the driveshaft and soak for 5 mins, then empy and rinse, giving a good wipe out. (* Circlips are a pain and easily slip... BE CAREFUL! I used a screwdriver to help prise it open!)

Insert a screwdriver in where the drive shaft was, and move the cage around. There will be some resistance, but any really bad sticking points, or "Floating" metal, indicate excessive wear, and you will need to replace the shaft end, likewise a really sloppy cage with excess play may also need replacing as the bearings are probably over worn.

Returning to the tripod, clean the end using degreasant, and undo the circlip at the end and pull the tripod off of the shaft...
DSCF0007.jpg

NOTE:before removing, mark the the alignment on the shaft using tip-ex or something similar! The tripod may be stuck quite tightly and may have to be pulled off using an extractor/puller. (DO NOT PULL ON THE ROLLER BEARINGS!)

Using Gunk/tetra, clean away as much of the grease as you can from the tripod. (I soaked mine in a container!)
DSCF0008.jpg

Using a brush to get into the bearings.
Once clean...
DSCF0011.jpg

Spin the rollerbearings and feel for any grinding, also check for any obvious signs of wear (scratches etc...), replace the tripod if necessary.
Clean out the tripod cavity (end of the shaft) and also check for signs of damage/wear.

Once you are 100% sure all is ok, you can start to re-assemble, in reverse order. Ensuring both boots & cavity are tightly packed with grease and all alignment marks as correct.
DSCF0013.jpg


Clean up and you're done!

With mine, it was simply that there was not enough grease in the cage, and it was sticking, so after a good clean, it has freed up nicely. Apparently, this is quite common with driveshafts with ball and cage, and is usually the best thing to attempt, in order to rectify any problems.

Note: Any suspected worn parts should be replaced... FIAT can usually get these in a day or two!!

Have fun, and remember, it's best to source a spare shaft from a scrappy so you still have use of the car if needed!

Oh and don't forget: Use a new hubnut when re-fitting the shaft to the car!

Happy motoring!! (y)
 
Really good guide there mate. Really helpful. Always wondered how to service the driveshafts. Really think this should be a sticky?!

Sam.
 
That's really great! (y) I am about to face driveshaft removal, so this is right in time for me :) Thanks a lot. Three questions though:

1. Do you have to drain the gearbox to take the driveshaft out? How much is the oil leaking if I don't? I will have to replace the shaft seal inside the gearbox actually and I wonder if the leaking oil would bother me much on this occasion...

2. I take it that the metal clips that secure the rubber in place are reusable then...

3. How easy (or difficult) it is to slide the shaft out of the gearbox?

Cheers,

Woj
 
Cheers for the praise folks! (y)

The missus actually let me do it! That's because i always clean up well after myself! :p (Or she'd kill me!!!)

woj said:
That's really great! (y) I am about to face driveshaft removal, so this is right in time for me :) Thanks a lot. Three questions though:

1. Do you have to drain the gearbox to take the driveshaft out? How much is the oil leaking if I don't? I will have to replace the shaft seal inside the gearbox actually and I wonder if the leaking oil would bother me much on this occasion...

2. I take it that the metal clips that secure the rubber in place are reusable then...

3. How easy (or difficult) it is to slide the shaft out of the gearbox?

Cheers,

Woj

Woj, to answer your questions:
1. No, as long as you top the gearbox up when you're done - If you are taking any remedial action on the box, then it's worthwhile draining it anyway. I lost about a cupful doing mine.
2. It depends on the type of clip on the boots, mine are no good now, so i'll use cable ties to secure them when i've regreased.
3. You may need to lever the shaft way from the box, as there is a retaining clip on the splined shaft end...
ShaftRetainer.jpg

... be careful not to damage the shaft whils doing this, and DO NOT pull on the CV joint at wheel end! they also need a little tap to get them back in, once again, DO NOT hit the whell end of the drifshaft with anything! You WILL break the bearings if you do! just gently tease it back into place.
 
nicely done,for anyone else doing the same then just go straight ot guides and create it in there.makes it easier for peeps,noobs etc to find.
theres even a how2 in the guides section on how to make a guide as it has loads of features

when i get a chance i'll convert this one over
 
frenchwood said:
... be careful not to damage the shaft whils doing this, and DO NOT pull on the CV joint at wheel end! they also need a little tap to get them back in, once again, DO NOT hit the whell end of the drifshaft with anything! You WILL break the bearings if you do! just gently tease it back into place.

I know that hammer and similar inventions are out of the question, that's why I asked, cause I was not sure how tricky it will be without heavy equipment. Thanks again (y) /Woj
 
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