Bad swirls and holograms :-(

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Bad swirls and holograms :-(

jonathaneuk

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Had my Car about 6 months now and the only thing letting me down is the bad holograms and swirls on my car.

Looks excellent during the day but when it's night time and I park under a light it's just a mess.
The last owner has made a absolute mess whatever they have done.

Anyways I haven't a clue about detailing or anything, so can anyone help me on getting my bodywork back to being normal again :-(.

Hopefully by hand I don't mind spending hours and hours on It as long as I can get rid of them.

What stuff do I use to remove? And how ?

Thanks guys

Jonathan
 
I'd also be interested in any answers to this post as I've got the same problem, would it be cheaper to pay a professional the buy all the kit needed to do a decent job?
 
Had my Car about 6 months now and the only thing letting me down is the bad holograms and swirls on my car.

Looks excellent during the day but when it's night time and I park under a light it's just a mess.
The last owner has made a absolute mess whatever they have done.

Anyways I haven't a clue about detailing or anything, so can anyone help me on getting my bodywork back to being normal again :-(.

Hopefully by hand I don't mind spending hours and hours on It as long as I can get rid of them.

What stuff do I use to remove? And how ?

Thanks guys

Jonathan

The only way to sort this out is with a rotary machine polish - I can recommend this guy and he's based up your way;

http://www.ddbvaleting.co.uk/
 
It can be done by hand but trust me your arm is going to want to drop off :D


i made a right mess of my 06 grande using a car wash brush (well it seemed like a good idea till i parked it under the garage canopy with its Sodium lights)


anyhow first you need the car uber clean

https://www.fiatforum.com/car-care/188996-basic-guide-how-clean-your-car.html

https://www.fiatforum.com/miscellaneous-guides/319391-getting-into-detailing.html?p=3181746

so a chemical / clay session is in order

(chemical clean first then clay idea is to remove as much as you can without contact to minimize further damage)

https://www.fiatforum.com/miscellaneous-guides/319391-getting-into-detailing.html?p=3181746


from claying stage you can go 1 of 2 ways although some products merge this step....


Hiding

and

removing


Hiding the marks by the use of a filler heavy product

such as

Autoglyms Super resin polish (this has a slight cut to it)

Bilt Hamber autobalm


and removal using a mild deminishing abrasive compound (you wont remove everything by hand but you can get a fair bit out if you spend the time,,,,,

such as

Meguires scratch-x

or Mernenza polish

http://www.elitecarcare.co.uk/menzerna-final-finish-polish-p0-85-re-5-250ml.php?manufacturers_id=49

(which is what i tend to use by hand for small area scratch removal)

With the filler heavy products its a case of rub in well and buff off....



with the cutting polishes there is a bit more to it.......

Most are based on a "deminishable abrasive"

think of grinding a lump of chalk into concrete (concrete been your car and the chalk been one grain of abrasive) the more you grind it into the concrete the more it crumbles and breaks up as it breaks up it cuts less and less deep

so it starts by been aggressive and can lightly cloud the finish but keep at it and the polish breaks down and slowly clears the clouding it inflicts revealing a shiny car........

as such its imperative to only work in small areas eg 1x1ft and use a very small quantity of polish..

you need some kind of polishing pad the German applicators are good..

http://www.ukcarcare.co.uk/applicator-pads/234-wolfgang-german-applicator.html

the firm side allows you to "work" the polish

so to prime the pad for work a light mist of water or quick detailer spray

and for a 1ft square area 2 smartie size blobs is more than enough...

and get rubbing with firm pressure in circular motion you will slowly notice the polish starts to clear once you are left with what looks like a oily residue with no colour left (that menz polish is a blueish gray colour )

buff off with a microfibre towel and inspect if needed repeat again...

(your looking to work that area for 3-5 mins)


then use a paint cleaner to remove the polishing oils or super resin polish


this is an american company but gives you an idea




then wax up the area you have done... (i did a panel a night after work through the summer) its no quick fix but it can be done


if you find your getting hazing your not working the polish long enough and or are using too much ;)



It will not fully remove every mark but will make it look a lot better (y)
 
From my experience, fiat paint is pretty hard and if the swirls are seriously bad they may take time to be worked out by hand, im more than happy to carry out a enhancement detail including a machine polish all over for a mates rate price, I love NO blue and it shines up so so well! Drop me a PM if you want? But a kestrel DAS6 is a handy item to own!
 
i have used poorboys ssr3 in the past on a rotary, again as said above take your time its certainly not a quick thing to do and make sure you wash your car (if you get polish flick) afterwards, i did a panel a night on my last marea over a week long period is hard work but it was worth it, going to start on my stilo when it warms up a bit, also if you use a rotary make sure you don't build up too much heat or you will burn through. i topped mine off with 2 coast of auto glym deep shine and then poor boys natty's wax although i will be using colinite next.

if you decide to buy a rotary and all the cutting compounds and polishes etc etc just be careful and take your time
 
Yeah, I've had a few comments about using poor boys as well. I've used meguirs swirlx the other day and spent 2 days on it, and I must say most swirls have gone and also buffer burns/holograms have also been mostly removed !
 
Really ? This is the only way ? Just been on his website damn he's expensive looking at £225-350 /-(

You have read the price for paint correction. Email David and ask him for a price for a machine polish only.

Working by hand will help only nominally and the results will not be anywhere near as good as a rotary polish (n) Which you will by now know................
 
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I would have thought any decent pro valeter or detailer would tell you where to go if you just want the car machine polished the prep work before a polisher touches the car is vital to prevent FOD induced damaged it only takes one bit of tar or metallic fall out releasing during polishing to result in serious damage to the paintwork.

Not to mention contaminating the polishing pad leaving it fit for the bin


Unless your referring to the difference between an enhancement and a full correction?
 
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Unless your referring to the difference between an enhancement and a full correction?

Correct!

Hence asking the guy to email David, who will advise to wash/clay etc etc before the machine polish (as will all professional detailers). He will then do the machine polish and IPA wipe down - it is then up to the individual which glaze and LSP to use. Obviously, full correction wil take longer and therefore cost more money.

Why not simply contact DDB and ask for advice - as a thoroughly professional detailer!! :bang:
 
Correct!

Hence asking the guy to email David, who will advise to wash/clay etc etc before the machine polish (as will all professional detailers). He will then do the machine polish and IPA wipe down - it is then up to the individual which glaze and LSP to use. Obviously, full correction wil take longer and therefore cost more money.

Why not simply contact DDB and ask for advice - as a thoroughly professional detailer!! :bang:

Thanks mate ! ill give him a message :)
 
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