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Well for those who read my thread about Diamondbrite (couldn't find the old thread, unless I'm blind) but here's some results. (please, it's my first time properly cleaning my car haha)
 

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Bad news; it's gone back to the way it was...

I'm pretty pissed off if I'm honest because I don't know why it's done that :bang:

I spent 4 hours 2 weeks ago 'polishing' or 'correcting' it.. and I don't know why it's gone back to the way it was.. all the scratches and swirls are back. Did I do something wrong? (n)


EDIT: Examples -
 

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what exactly did you use on it it makes it easier to identify? if youve used SRP then its full of some cutting properties but also fillers and if the fillers have worn off then thats the reason they may be back....
 
As Ninja59 said could be down to fillers wearing off. Also the marks around the door handles look like buffer trails not scratches. Maybe caused by not holding the machine polisher upright and placing more pressure on one sie of the pad.
 
I used Auto-balm. And I don't have a machine polisher :eek:

Would I need a sealent after using Auto-balm?

No

it doesn't bead like a wax but offers good protection and can be "topped up" using an applicator to dry the car with a very small amount of balm on then buff over with a dry Microfibre (y)



as for the swirls it looks more like hazing at a guess did you use a lot of auto balm it could be residue try a plant spray bottle with water in mist the panel then buff with a clean microfibre see if it comes off
 
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have you actually 'corrected' it then if you havent used a machine polisher?

4 hours by hand isnt going to correct much...

not ripping you apart by the way, just correcting by hand would take about a year!
 
they look a little like residue pics where your polishing asnt wiped away all the polish on a second look

well thats what i think it is too Ninja ABalm can be a pig to remove if you put it on too thickly

dont use the supplied scrim get some decent microfibres they should remove it with a mist of water if you still have a problem damp aplicator and a touch of balm work it in really well then buff it straight off

(if you can see more than an oily film you have used way too much)

Did you balm the entire car then begin to buff it off?

you almost want to apply it so you cant see it..... give you an example i did my mums KA by hand using only what was stuck to the lid you should be able to get 20- 30 GP sized cars out of one pot.... 1/4 of the roof is sometimes too much to get it off before it cures small areas at a time (y)


why am i still sat on the computer when i should be in bed :rolleyes:
 
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have you actually 'corrected' it then if you havent used a machine polisher?

4 hours by hand isnt going to correct much...

not ripping you apart by the way, just correcting by hand would take about a year!
Lol I know, I appreciate the advice.

No

it doesn't bead like a wax but offers good protection and can be "topped up" using an applicator to dry the car with a very small amount of balm on then buff over with a dry Microfibre (y)



as for the swirls it looks more like hazing at a guess did you use a lot of auto balm it could be residue try a plant spray bottle with water in mist the panel then buff with a clean microfibre see if it comes off


well thats what i think it is too Ninja ABalm can be a pig to remove if you put it on too thickly

dont use the supplied scrim get some decent microfibres they should remove it with a mist of water if you still have a problem damp aplicator and a touch of balm work it in really well then buff it straight off

(if you can see more than an oily film you have used way too much)

Did you balm the entire car then begin to buff it off?

you almost want to apply it so you cant see it..... give you an example i did my mums KA by hand using only what was stuck to the lid you should be able to get 20- 30 GP sized cars out of one pot.... 1/4 of the roof is sometimes too much to get it off before it cures small areas at a time (y)


why am i still sat on the computer when i should be in bed :rolleyes:

they look a little like residue pics where your polishing asnt wiped away all the polish on a second look

Yeah well from what I gather it is more residue than anything, but when I dry off with my microfibre cloth after washing it streaks the car. So you can't really get correction by hand? If so what MP could I get ( I've seen this - http://www.lidl.co.uk/cps/rde/xchg/lidl_uk/hs.xsl/index_8400.htm ) and would I have to use some other polish to correct it, then wax the car?

P.s. if I don't reply that's because I'm off to Tenerife in 5 hours :D
 
Yeah well from what I gather it is more residue than anything, but when I dry off with my microfibre cloth after washing it streaks the car. So you can't really get correction by hand? If so what MP could I get ( I've seen this - http://www.lidl.co.uk/cps/rde/xchg/lidl_uk/hs.xsl/index_8400.htm ) and would I have to use some other polish to correct it, then wax the car?

P.s. if I don't reply that's because I'm off to Tenerife in 5 hours :D


dont get that something like a kestral DAS6 is what you want... If the car is streaking after washing i guess your using a cheaper wash and wax type product

try a decent quality shampoo (mixed to the correct dilution) and rinse VERY well

then dry (i take it your drying cloth is clean too)
 
Okay I've decided I'm no good at this and I give up lol, I tried some more today on the bonnet and I only put a tiny bit on at a time, took me forever, and it won't buff off it just is streaky and metallic looking...
 
The swirls on the door look like marks from a past machine polishing that wasn't done correctly. They're known as buffer marks and I see them all the time on black cars. The only way to remove them is a LOT of hard work by hand or a decent machine polish by a professional.

If you're going to try removing some of the hazing and marks by hand, get a bottle of Autoglym Super Resin Polish (SRP) and about 4 new, clean cloths. Wash and clay the area to be polished. Apply a small amount of SRP to a cloth (4 pea sized blobs should do a door) and apply to the door using slight pressure and a circular motion. Keep doing this until the polish begins to break down and begins to go slightly clear, as it does so apply a bit more pressure.

Once the polish has broken down into a semi transparent state, leave it to dry on slightly. Then buff off with a clean cloth.

Using that method the Corsa I did went from this;

corsa14.jpg


To this;

corsa15.jpg
 
The swirls on the door look like marks from a past machine polishing that wasn't done correctly. They're known as buffer marks and I see them all the time on black cars. The only way to remove them is a LOT of hard work by hand or a decent machine polish by a professional.

If you're going to try removing some of the hazing and marks by hand, get a bottle of Autoglym Super Resin Polish (SRP) and about 4 new, clean cloths. Wash and clay the area to be polished. Apply a small amount of SRP to a cloth (4 pea sized blobs should do a door) and apply to the door using slight pressure and a circular motion. Keep doing this until the polish begins to break down and begins to go slightly clear, as it does so apply a bit more pressure.

Once the polish has broken down into a semi transparent state, leave it to dry on slightly. Then buff off with a clean cloth.

Using that method the Corsa I did went from this;

corsa14.jpg


To this;

corsa15.jpg
Nice, thanks.

So that stuff that I bought then, what's that for is that protection, or is it polishing, or a bit of both?
 
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auto balm is just for protection....SRP has some cutting ability to remove imperfections and fillers to dill in any imperfections....
 
So could I SRP it then autobalm it

I believe so, some LSPs (last stage products, waxes and sealants etc.) have trouble bonding over oily products or polishes but over SRP it shouldn't be a problem. I always apply my wax over SRP.
 
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