Technical Diesel stalling/cutting out

[Planty]

Evening all,

I wonder if you may be able to help out my father-in-law.

His 58 reg 1.6 diesel Bravo (105 eco) has developed a fault in the last week that has us a little stumped.

From cold, having no previous faults, it started fine and drove roughly 0.3 miles before cutting out/stalling. It then would not restart, and I’m told it didn’t even crank the engine.

The car was left for maybe half hour to 45 mins, and when we returned it started fine and drove back home the same distance, with no obvious problems. My father in law has replaced the fuel filter and glow plugs since then.

Today it was driven to work by my mother-in-law without issue, but again having been parked up all morning until lunchtime it started fine, drove less than 100m across a car park and stalled, refusing to restart once again. It restarted 30 mins later and drove home again no problem.

There are no warning lights on the dash, so I assume no error codes thrown up. When it starts it idles fine, albeit with a very slight rise and fall sound to the revs, although it’s not what I would call ‘hunting’ and it’s not a big enough change to move the Rev needle on the dash.

Any ideas?

 

[varesecrazy]

Evening all,

I wonder if you may be able to help out my father-in-law.

His 58 reg 1.6 diesel Bravo (105 eco) has developed a fault in the last week that has us a little stumped.

From cold, having no previous faults, it started fine and drove roughly 0.3 miles before cutting out/stalling. It then would not restart, and I’m told it didn’t even crank the engine.

The car was left for maybe half hour to 45 mins, and when we returned it started fine and drove back home the same distance, with no obvious problems. My father in law has replaced the fuel filter and glow plugs since then.

Today it was driven to work by my mother-in-law without issue, but again having been parked up all morning until lunchtime it started fine, drove less than 100m across a car park and stalled, refusing to restart once again. It restarted 30 mins later and drove home again no problem.

There are no warning lights on the dash, so I assume no error codes thrown up. When it starts it idles fine, albeit with a very slight rise and fall sound to the revs, although it’s not what I would call ‘hunting’ and it’s not a big enough change to move the Rev needle on the dash.

Any ideas?

Hi

Did the glowplug light flash? Im not convinced the plugs were at fault.. but have seen odd behaviour linked with the light flashing.

Solutions:

Get it plugged in to read ANY engine codes.. followed by body codes

Get the fuel rail pressures read while plugged in too

NOT CRANKING.. could point to a dodgy battery to body..to motor earth connection

Which of course might be enough to stop a running motor


1st things..

Disconnect battery for an hour.. clean the ends of the earth cable

Reconnect.. see what happens

Then check the Members register to see if somebody nesr the car has MultiECUScan software..
Will do all the necessary plug.in diagnostics

Charlie.. near the M4

 

[RalphM]

Check the anti vacuum valve in the filler cap is not stuck.
Though it does sound more electrical than fuel.

 

[Planty]

Had the obd plugged in today and the car wasn’t showing any error codes at all. F-I-L pressing ahead with changing the fuel pump. He seems convinced it’s a fuelling issue because it’s cutting out.

 

[Mike1alike]

First check the injection pump. It is mechanichal, with a belt making it move, isn't it? Get the cover down and check if there is fuel spills around. If that is good, check the fuel pump first if it start when turning the key into ignition, then read the pressure on the fuel line. Do not let him jump into changing the fuel pump, it may work very good and a new one won't solve the problem.
If those are good, the culprit may be the cranckshaft sensor. If it sends no signal, the ECU is not injecting fuel.

 

[Planty]

Thanks for your input. We will certainly check the injection pump. The fuel pressure was taken with the codes being read and came back fine on Sunday.

Quick Q if you don’t mind - if it was the crank sensor at fault would that not throw up an error code?

 

[Mike1alike]

No, it doesn't. That's the "beauty" of it. Because it still appears connected and sends a value. And it also have the very bad habit sometimes that it goes bad but only when is hot. While engine and everything is cold, all works fine. And then you hear people asking "my car dosen't start on hot engine, what can it be?" When the sensor gets hot it just doesn't work and sends no signal to the ECU, 0 voltage or so. ECU does not register an error, it just thinks that the cranckshaft does not rotate, therefore gives no fuel, considering that the engine is stopped. It is a tricky sensor and is a very good thing if you now this about it and you keep an eye on it.

 

[Planty]

That’s some great info, thanks again. Sounds like the multimeter is coming out! I’ll report back what we find.

 

[varesecrazy]

Thanks for your input. We will certainly check the injection pump. The fuel pressure was taken with the codes being read and came back fine on Sunday.
?

What pressures did you see ?

Cranking ..vs running ??

 

[Planty]

I’m sorry, I wasn’t personally present when the check was done, my F-I-L and his mate did the check and was just deemed ‘fine’. Afraid I can be more help than that.

 

[Planty]

I’m sorry, I wasn’t personally present when the check was done, my F-I-L and his mate did the check and was just deemed ‘fine’. Afraid I can be more help than that.

I have confirmed that the checks were carried out when running and when not. The outcome was that the pressures were all good and for the age of the vehicle it is in very good condition.