Tuning Camshafts for T-Jet

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Tuning Camshafts for T-Jet

PaddyWS

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Hi guys

Does anyone know if the cams from a 1.4 16v Engine Code: 199A60, will fit a 1.4 T-jet 198A4000? As far as I can read they should equal C&B road medium cams.. also, does anyone know where to find stainless steel exhaust manifold flanges for a T-jet?
 
I don't think those cams will work.
Have a look here:
https://www.proxyparts.com/car-parts-stock/information/engine-code/199a60/part/camshaft/partid/7733970/

At first glance.. these have VVT + the cam sensor is in a different place.
You need the cams form a Fiat Stilo 1.4 16v or a Bravo 1.4 16v 90 hp.
You will also need the cam pulley from the same engine, as the one in the t-jet won't work.. (probably different diameter shats?)

I didn't find the stainless (or even mild steel) flanges anywhere.
BUT since the 1.4 16v and the 1.2 16v are basically the same engine, there are stainless steel exhaust manifolds for that engine. Like this one
I am not sure if it will actually work .. do your own research.
Get one of those and cut off the flange....a little grinder work...and you're there.
Other than that... custom.... maybe Scara73 will make you a flange...
 
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Thank you for replying mate����

I already did a lot a of researching but I find it difficult to find concrete answers.
Maybe the solution is to leave the cams..
ok, yeah it’s a solution but would be a terrible waste of money��
I think I’ll process the flanges on my own, would have been nice to save the time though.
Did you solve your flange issue or would you be interested in one?

What setup do you run btw?
 
The more i think about it the more i'm certain the VVT cams will not work.

What is your target?

I'm only running the vl36, Ragazzon cat-less downpipe + tune. 194ps
I will be getting a bigger intercooler and some bigger injector this spring.. more for safety.
 
Not bad :cool: how’s the nm at 194hp?

I’m aiming for 250, with a Holset HX221W, 380cc injectors, SS map and pressure sensors, full exhaust 2,5” with a 400 cell race cat, 3” induction pipe, airtek intercooler and techno 5 rods.. still considering pistons, shouldn’t be necessary, but... to be safe..? Also I’m not sure if 400 cell cat would be too restrictive. However a 200 cell won’t last more than a few years, then it would be polluting too much.. could I compensate with a full 2,75-3” exhaust and fit 400 cells?? :confused:
 
Also I’ll install a AEM TRU boost controller,- And of course remapping
 
Dyno Graph

You shouldn't need the AEM boost controller, the stock setup already has an electronic boost controller... might just confuse the ecu.

Isn't it going to be a bit to expensive for the extra ~10-20 hp, to go into the engine, as opposed to only doing: injectors, turbo, intercooler, exhaust and tune? (i mean even so you might get 250 hp)

If you do want to go all out.. then don't skip the cams.
I think this is what you need

And go for a bigger turbo, that one seems to run out of puff over 250hp.

Have a look at this thread
 
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Thank you for the link to the cams(y)

I’m aware the boost controller won’t give me any extra power, but I need the possibility to lower the boost:)

Thanks for the link to the tread, I already studied it thoroughly :)
it’s true the limit for hx221w is about 250 for diesel, but should deliver flow up to 300 on petrol.. also, don’t wanna go too big due to spool up time.. was recommended this particular one by a serious and experienced tuner, that’s why I chose it :) you don’t think it’s a good choice?

The reason why I consider leaving the cams is this thread: -.... send it in next text-....

If it’s possible to achieve 340hp with a stock head, wouldn’t it be possible for me to get 250 from a stock head?

But agree, but be preferable with cams.. you think those you linked would be plug and play? :)
 
Did you move limiter to 6300? Looks like it on the dyno graph?
 
Thank you for the link to the cams(y)

I’m aware the boost controller won’t give me any extra power, but I need the possibility to lower the boost:)
You might get ECU errors for underboost.

it’s true the limit for hx221w is about 250 for diesel, but should deliver flow up to 300 on petrol.. also, don’t wanna go too big due to spool up time.. was recommended this particular one by a serious and experienced tuner, that’s why I chose it :) you don’t think it’s a good choice?
As a rule of thumb diesels use much smaller turbos that petrol engine. A loose approximation a turbo off a 3 liter diesel can be used on a 1.5 liter petrol (it's because petrol engine have a lot more rev range (extra 2k rpm), and also work under vacuum.
Power will be related to mass of air flowed though the engine.
If you don't already have it.. or can get it really cheap i would try something already tested and proven (and cheap) like the TD04.
Also i think that Holset, only has oil cooling?... i would avoid that at all costs. the T-jet only has 3 liters of oil, and at those temperatures and forces, the oil will degrade really fast.
If money isn't an issue, you could also get a increased oil capacity oil pan TCM has them.
Will provide some buffer to oil degrading really fast.

If it’s possible to achieve 340hp with a stock head, wouldn’t it be possible for me to get 250 from a stock head?
But agree, but be preferable with cams.. you think those you linked would be plug and play? :)

The head itself isn't the problem... the cams and cam timing will improve things; max power...maybe low rpm pick-up.
The NA cams will provide some more lift and some more duration(some overlap as well).
The result of the NA cams, compared to the stock 120t-jet will be the turbo will have to produce less boost for the same amount of power. If the turbo works in the more efficient zone of it's flow map, the air will be heated less, colder air => more power.
The net result will be more power with less stress on the turbo (also less chances of hoses popping off or splitting)
I think the cams i posted will work, BUT make sure it comes with the cams (it states they are from a NA 1.4 Bravo, and the pictures look right to me). bonus comes with another cylinder head (but without valves)... you could clean and port it a bit and just have it at hand for when/if you need to go into the engine.

I mean if i was going for big power, and was willing to spend like 2k for doing that... i would stay away from going into the engine for the rods and pistons, at least until it blows up:)); but seriously the t-jet can take a lot with the stock internals...
when it blows up, i'd search for the cause... at that point you can actually see what the problem was... i'd say a piston will melt even if it was forged, and a rod will probably bend from detonation. The stock and the forget aftermarket ones will do the same.

Also are you sure the t-jets can easily take H rods? i saw some post where they needed to grind quite a lot from the cylinder base in order to make them fit

The problems will be heat, oil degradation, correct tuning, stable fuel pressure and flow. Also there are no colder spark plugs available. As far as i know there are some racing spark plugs that are colder (really expensive for a maintenance item), and i think BRISK also has some "Silver" that might work, but some people say they get clocged up if not driven hard enough

BTW with the 380 cc injectors you don't want to go over 250hp, at that power they should be around 90-95% duty cycle. Maybe you should get something bigger; 450cc will take you to 280hp at 90% duty..
 
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Did you move limiter to 6300? Looks like it on the dyno graph?

No, it still has the 6.5 k limiter.
Most of the runs were cut 100-200rpm short to prevent unnecessary stress on engine, drive train, dyno when the engine cuts ignition/fueling for revlimiting.
We did make one run up to 6.4XXrpm and it was still climbing..got like another 2 hp..
Doesn't really matter.. dyno results are not written in stone. Same car, same dyno, same day 20 minutes apart, results will vary with air/engine temp 1-2 degrees will make a difference. barometric pressure...etc
 
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As regards to ecu there should be no issue, it will be remapped with two or three setups..

Thanks for the heads up on the oil temps, I already planned on a oil temp sensor in both head and bottom, I’ll consider an oil cooler to expand capacity too..
however I still don’t plan on getting over 250, and it’s not a track car, it’s for street, don’t think the temps will be a huge issue :D also since fitting larger intercooler..
So I think I’ll stick with the Holset, also want to try something else than the well known and tested, if I blow it up or melt it down report back:D

As for the cams, you’re totally right, but will it be necessary for 250? I’ve seen dyno runs, 240hp just on turbo, cooler, injectors and downpipe, and if I only reach 240, whatever.... but you’re right, would spare the turbo.. however, talked to a specialized engine modification company, they said I should get a head from a t-jet if I want it planned and ported, the 1.4 n/a won’t fit, only the cams..

But yes, the cams come with that head, it says ‘ con camme ‘, according to my very limited Italian knowledge it should mean ‘ with cams ‘ :)

Ok, I guess that’s the reasonable thing to do :) but the engine should be good for 7000 rpm without touching valves and springs right??
 
Oil temps will be ok for general street use... but if you will be taking it on the German unlimited Autobahn, and going at full speed for any amount of time.. then you will have a problem.

The factory oil-to-water oil cooler does a decent job, but i guess it will be overwhelmed at double the power. :)
An additional oil cooler (front mounted oil-to-air) does sound good, until you get to specifics:
- chances of it leaking=100%
- that cooler/lines don't drain completely.. so you will always have some (~0.5 liter) old oil mixing with the new one.. so oil change periods reduced.
-will you remove the stock oil cooler?
-most of the thermostatic oil cooler i've seen still allow some oil to the cooler, even if the temperature of the oil is to low.
Have a look at this video:



I wouldn't go over 6500 on stock valve springs...should be ok for 7k.
Turbo's have a short rev range in which they work well.. so really if you want 7k.. you can get it.. but will it climb in power.. or will it flat line?

Is that Holset a ball bearing turbo?

Why not search for one that is? and is also water cooled.
Why not search for a twinscroll ball bearing turbo? that should help a lot with low rpm boost.
 
Anyone know how to put the Bravo petrol 120 hp in position . I done stem valve and when putting the head bolts one fall inside and need to open the camshafts and put it again together but donw know if has any sign how to put them in position
 
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