Technical Regen issue

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Technical Regen issue

bravosl165

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My Bravo this afternoon develped a wee problem on the dash. It came up with "Antipolution valve clogged" Now i know this was the DPF and managed to clear the issue by letting the car tick over and she seemed to clear the issue herself. However i am a wee bit concerned that this may be a sign of problems ahead.

Whats peoples thoughts?

stuart
 
My Bravo this afternoon develped a wee problem on the dash. It came up with "Antipolution valve clogged" Now i know this was the DPF and managed to clear the issue by letting the car tick over and she seemed to clear the issue herself. However i am a wee bit concerned that this may be a sign of problems ahead.

Whats peoples thoughts?

stuart

The handbook states something like drive (being the keyword) the car until the light goes out. It just means the filter has become a certain percentage blocked up and is telling you that it needs to regenerate to avoid damaging the DPF or causing it to fail. If the light has gone out then it should be ok. I am no mechanic but i would assume that leaving the car just ticking over isn't the best way to resolve as the exhaust system needs to reach a certain temperature for regeneration to take place e.g. by driving it at a good speed in excess of 40mph if possible. Like i said i am no mechanic but this is my understanding from advice I have been given. Have you been doing lots of short / low speed journeys?
 
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My Bravo this afternoon develped a wee problem on the dash. It came up with "Antipolution valve clogged" Now i know this was the DPF and managed to clear the issue by letting the car tick over and she seemed to clear the issue herself. However i am a wee bit concerned that this may be a sign of problems ahead.

Whats peoples thoughts?

stuart

Mine did it last summer after a month of short journeys, once it had a blast and cleared the error its been fine ever since.

Its a warning to tell you to give it time to clear that's all so don't worry!
 
The handbook states something like drive (being the keyword) the car until the light goes out. It just means the filter has become a certain percentage blocked up and is telling you that it needs to regenerate to avoid damaging the DPF or causing it to fail. If the light has gone out then it should be ok. I am no mechanic but i would assume that leaving the car just ticking over isn't the best way to resolve as the exhaust system needs to reach a certain temperature for regeneration to take place e.g. by driving it at a good speed in excess of 40mph if possible. Like i said i am no mechanic but this is my understanding from advice I have been given. Have you been doing lots of short / low speed journeys?

I took the car a wee drive and light stayed on left her running as it says in the handbook, the fan came on then after about 5 mins light went out and fan went off.
To quote the hand book " To enable cleaning procedure, keep the car running until the warning lights turns off".

Just wondering if it was a sign off things to come so thanks for the reasurances guys hope its going to be ok.

stuart
 
I would be inclined to take your car for a nice 25 or 30+ mile drive on a motorway. Keep the revs at 2000 to 2250 or 2500 rpm and enjoy the drive for as long a period as you can.

DPF filter clogging is totally down to drive cycle parameters

There are at least two+ number of parameters affecting filter regeneration

1) dpf filter back pressure
2) oil quality / distance since last oil change
3) drive cycle parameters
4) engine temperature
5) distance since last regeneration
6) etc. - others probably/certainly exist

No one diagnosis or solution only a set of possibilities which then have to be assessed in relation to all the other possible factors.
 
OP, you've done the correct thing, and it should be find now tbh. What sort of driving was done for the previous 200-300 miles out of interest?

I am no mechanic but i would assume that leaving the car just ticking over isn't the best way to resolve as the exhaust system needs to reach a certain temperature for regeneration to take place

On the Bravo, leaving it sitting will be fine, although I'd advise lifting the bonnet to allow venting.

I would be inclined to take your car for a nice 25 or 30+ mile drive on a motorway. Keep the revs at 2000 to 2250 or 2500 rpm and enjoy the drive for as long a period as you can.

If the light has gone out then it should be fine.
 
Actually, what I've been advised to do by the dealer where I bought the car, is to drive it around at about 2500rpm until it stops the regen. This is because the particles that clog the DPF are only destroyed when exhaust temperature reaches 650ºC (or somewhere near), so you have to keep the revs a bit high so it all gets incinerated...
 
OP, you've done the correct thing, and it should be find now tbh. What sort of driving was done for the previous 200-300 miles out of interest? ...


Its usually doing 25 miles comute daily (50 mile round trip) with the odd bit of town driving in between. the comute is on A class raod 55-65 mph. Just so happens that this week i have been on hols doing more town and schools runs than normal.

stuart
 
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Actually, what I've been advised to do by the dealer where I bought the car, is to drive it around at about 2500rpm until it stops the regen. This is because the particles that clog the DPF are only destroyed when exhaust temperature reaches 650ºC (or somewhere near), so you have to keep the revs a bit high so it all gets incinerated...

The 650+ degrees temp is actually spot on. The specific RPM required is a variable. I've experienced regens at idle speed (after they have initiated). The point to note is that the DFP chamber requires temperatures of 650 deg.C or greater and the ECU will endeavour to do this. Generally speaking a long run at 2000+ rpm easily satisfies the criteria. At lower rpms then once a regen has been initiated then the ECU will (even at idle speeds) keeping pumping fuel into the exhaust stream to keep the fire alight which it can easily do. However for obvious reasons a 2000rpm regen with plenty of cool air passing the car is a more desired objective/scenario to be obtained.
 
Its usually doing 25 miles comute daily (50 mile round trip) with the odd bit of town driving in between. the comute is on A class raod 55-65 mph. Just so happens that this week i have been on hols doing more town and schools runs than normal.

stuart

Sounds like a one off then tbh.

The 650+ degrees temp is actually spot on. The specific RPM required is a variable. I've experienced regens at idle speed (after they have initiated). The point to note is that the DFP chamber requires temperatures of 650 deg.C or greater and the ECU will endeavour to do this. Generally speaking a long run at 2000+ rpm easily satisfies the criteria. At lower rpms then once a regen has been initiated then the ECU will (even at idle speeds) keeping pumping fuel into the exhaust stream to keep the fire alight which it can easily do. However for obvious reasons a 2000rpm regen with plenty of cool air passing the car is a more desired objective/scenario to be obtained.

:yeahthat: basically, the car doesn't have to be driving or sitting at 2000rpm, although it helps to easy the regen in some cars.
 
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