Thank you very much!

Well explained how the front speakers should be removed
I assume that the rear speakers are removed in the same way?

Yes.
Drill rivets that hold speaker, use new rivets for speaker adapter, fasten new speaker to adapter

Ok, I have the door panel removed but how do I remove the lever from the window mechanism?

I have already succeeded, only the small piece of metal is gone

Well what a great walk-trough this was. Just replaced my front and back speakers using your walk-trough. :worship:
I do want to add some information. You don't need to buy adapter rings. The speaker fit (probably most speakers) the originals rings. You do need to cut the plastic that holds the magnet in place and a little use of a soldering iron and you're good to go.

The removal of the door was the trickiest part, especially because the first front door i forgot to undo one hex bolt. Well that took me about half a hour to figures this out. Luckily i'm a patient man and I didn't force anything.
Well I forgot this bolt behind the door handle :bang:


The first door took me about two hours and the second front door took me about 15 minutes. So if I do this a couple of times more I'm a professional Fiat Bravo door remover. Some pro tips; use a plastic spatula. I won't scratch the paint and it works great to unclip the plastic push bolts. The thin end works great for the beginning and the somewhat ticker handle works greats to slide up behind the plastic up and down. This felt better then just pulling on the door covers.


I didn't want to buy expensive door adapters, I mean they ask 15 euro for a plastic ring. So I wanted to see if i can fit my speaker to the original ring and yes this is possible. As with the car speakers I had two pair that i installed in my first car when i was 18. It is a pare of Fusion speaker. (New price was around 120 euro for two pair)
What i did was the following (Pics are of the rear door because front door was already nicely documented):

1. First remove all the srews and bolts:
Behind the cover in the handle


Under the door:


Behind the door handle (don't forget!)


The trickest part was the window lever. This was a pain in the ass on the back door. You have to undo a clip with a flat screwdriver. This video was a big help for me: youtube url but i can't post URLS yet, so post this behind a youtube url. watch?v=2sVASrULHVw
Really easy.


To undo the plastic panel first pull our some of the window rubber and pull the plastic door cover upwards on one side first. Window down makes it easier.


So all done with the door and lean it on a box against your door to prevent it ripping the isolation.

After this you can us a screwdriver to undo the pop-rivets.


Use a big drill bit to undo the pop-rivet. If the drill bit is to small you will only drill in the rivet without releasing it. And make sure your windows up to prevent drilling into your window.

With the speaker out you can use a some pincers to undo the plastic braces that holds the speaker in place. Cut the wire on the back but make sure you have enough wire to solder on the new speakers in it's place.

(Front door speaker, didn't make a nice picture of the back speaker)


The finished front door speaker:


Not gonna lie this took me two halve days of work. Now it's winter here so I did have a lot of coffee breaks. So it could have been done faster. But the first back door took just as with the front door 5 times longer then the second door.

Sadly my sound quality is not that much improved. Well it's a lot more clearer, but this went at the cost of the bass. This is probably because the original speaker had a lot of distortion that my new speaker don't have. So yeah for the audiophile in me, but i do like bass. Maybe some other speaker will do the trick? Suggestions?
So maybe I will make a small sub-woofer in the trunk of my car. I really like how they did it with the original car. Something like this.

Does someone have experience with building a subwoofer without sacrificing a lot of trunk space?
Also as I mentioned these speakers don't have that much punch with the low's so what are your experiences with other speakers and the sound qaulity?

Nice to see the guide I wrote more than nine years ago is still useful even though the Bravo is gone, and your extra photos will help someone else. The spatula is a nice tip.

I have a Mini Convertible now with a superb Harman Kardon stereo which is way more fun, but uses twice the fuel.

Well I think your guide has helped a lot of people over the years.

There is just not that much info to find about the bravo and the possible mods.

I have this bravo for about two months now and I really like how it drives and looks. It looks really modern especially compared to other cars from around 2008.

Mini looks great to but i have read that they are a bit more thirsty. And don't you miss the space that the bravo had? Harman Kardon sound system is nice indeed. Would love something similar.

Yes, the Bravo still looks great for a ten year old design.
When I bought mine I was doing at least 25000 miles a year, so I needed something good on fuel. With the 1.6 MultiJet I could get 60-70 mpg quite easily.

Since then I've changed jobs and cars a couple of times. I had an Octavia after the Bravo (my third Skoda) which was another good car but a lot more expensive to buy but still very good on fuel.

Now my commute to work is only three miles each way I can have a Mini Cooper S and it doesn't matter that it's only doing 35mpg. As the family has grown up I don't need the space any more so wanted fun instead.

Aronius said:

Sadly my sound quality is not that much improved. Well it's a lot more clearer, but this went at the cost of the bass. This is probably because the original speaker had a lot of distortion that my new speaker don't have. So yeah for the audiophile in me, but i do like bass. Maybe some other speaker will do the trick? Suggestions?

Click to expand...

You could experiment by shorting a piece of wire across that 4.7uF capacitor which acts as a crossover, removing the lower frequencies. If you find that improves the bass, you can solder it in place (and also remove that capacitor if you wish)

Actually, please ignore that. I've just noticed that the capacitor is in series with the tweeter; not the woofer. Shorting out the capacitor would only result in the tweeter outputting lower frequencies.