I will be fitting new front disks and pads, the manual says to replace the calliper bolts and the calliper mounting bracket bolts.
Is it necessary to replace these bolts?. The motor factors I have phoned don’t sell these bolts so I guess main dealer is the only place to get them.
Any advise would be great.
All The Best.
Ian.

Ive just done the same on my 1.6 HLX BRAVO and i havn,t put new bolts on.
Whats the point in wasting money when theres nothing wrong with the ones youv,e taken out.
I just nip them up and thats it,but if it bothers you that much why not put some thread lock on.
Hope thats a help.

Was thinking the same thing really, a bit of thread lock should do the trick.
Cheers.
Ian.

make sure the threads are clean and don't forget the thread lock,

The caliper 'bolts' on a Bravo/Brava are actually hex key pins are they not?

The caliper mounting bolts are big 17 or 19mm bolts. I've never had one come undone, or loosened. Having them clean can result in them rusting on. Mine are always greased, then tightened.

i sometimes inspect caliper bolts to see if they have worn at all. tell tale signs are slight thinning where the caliper has rubbed against it. the caliper mounting bolts should not need replacing ever as they do not have any moving parts in contact with them.
i always copper grease anything i remove, it makes it so much easier to remove next time. if you use thread lock you may get stuck next time the pads need changing.

have the smaller engines got the sliding pins though, i was asuming they was talking about bolt together calipers

not sure. if the bolts dont have any contact with moving parts there shouldnt ever be a need to replace them.

I never replaced myn either. I just greased them up with Copper Ease.

On myn the the bolts were 7mm allen key bolts. I had to borrow a car to go and buy a 7mm allen key as my Draper kit skips that size and I could not be bothered to put the wheel back on just to take it off again.

Aparently 7mm alen bolts a rarely used.

Yeah, strange size them 7mm ones. You can get them in a £1.99 set from Halfords - get the ones from the mountain bike section rather than the tools section as they're a quid cheaper for the same number. I wouldn't use them though for anything too tight - get a decent set of hex sockets otherwise you'll abuse more bolts than you undo

i have a "caliper tool" by draper, which is just a big 7mm allen key with a nice sized handle on. very useful.

Thanks for the info R.E. the 7mm hex key, the manual I have tells you nothing about this and of course every set of keys I have skip the 7mm.
A useful thing to know also is remove some of the brake fluid before retracting the caliper pistons, otherwise you might be cleaning the area the fluid has dribbled down:bang: .

HELLOM8 said:

A useful thing to know also is remove some of the brake fluid before retracting the caliper pistons, otherwise you might be cleaning the area the fluid has dribbled down:bang: .

Click to expand...

you 'should' open the bleed screw before attempting to force the piston back in. then the fluid level in the reservoir will not change. and you 'should' fully bleed the brakes once the new pads are fitted. the lazy way is to remove some fluid form the reservoir with a syringe if you think it may go above max when you force the pistons back in, although you often find it goes back to max almost exactly, suggesting there has been no loss or topping up since the last time new brakes were fitted and the system was bled and then topped up. in fact most of the time you should find this happens if you dont bleed any fluid during a pad replacement.