Hi i am new here and really need ur help i have a fiat bravo 1.6 16v, it died on me a few weeks back and got told it was either the ecu or the fuel pump relay, I CANT FIND THE RELAY THOUGH!!!! can anyone help me find this please please i miss my car and dont want to pay outrageous garage prices!!! lol
General i need help
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General i need help
i cant remember off the top of my head but a quick check in a haynes manual will tell you.
a fuel pump relay will cost £1-2 from a scrapyard so it is worth a try, however i've never heard of the fuel pump relay needing replacement on these cars. can you describe what happened when the car died? Did you get the injection systems warning light illuminating before or during the engine failure?
the injectors on the 1.6 models are very prone to failure, and even fiat dealers can have trouble diagnosing the problem. also the coil tends to fail fairly often.
before you assume a new fuel pump relay or ecu is needed you should test your injectors and coil. the resistance of a 'good' injector is usually 14.5-15ohms, although 14ohms is acceptible, any less and the injector is in need of replacement. to test them you can disconnect the injecotor wiring harness multiplug, its to the right of the fuel rail. there are 5 pins in the connector, the cenre pin is earth, the other 4 are each for an injector. measire the resistance across the center pins and each of the other 4. the HT outputs on the coil can also be tested for resistance. measure the resistance across the 1 and 3 outputs, then compare this to the resistance across the 2 and 4 outputs, similarly you can test the coil LT input pins in a similar fashion. both measurements (1&3 vs 2&4) should be very similar (within 10% of each other) a large difference would indicate a coil failure.
you said your car died on you, if that means the engine will not run at all the coil is most likely the culprit, if the car starts but idles very rought then an injector is more likely to be the cause. this is because a coil failure will affect 2 cylinders making it practically impossible for the engine to run, whereas an injector failure will only affect one cylinder and cause rough running.
if the engine will start you can also do the test in a more simple way, with the engine running you can reomve one plug lead and then replace it before removing the next. the removal of each lead should make a noticable difference to the revs, they should appear to drop. if removing one lead makes no difference then the injector on that cylinder may be faulty, if you notice no differnce on 2 leads the coil is more likely the cause.
if you can describe the car's problems in more detail i'm sure we can find the problem, also the results of the above tests would help with the diagnosis.
a fuel pump relay will cost £1-2 from a scrapyard so it is worth a try, however i've never heard of the fuel pump relay needing replacement on these cars. can you describe what happened when the car died? Did you get the injection systems warning light illuminating before or during the engine failure?
the injectors on the 1.6 models are very prone to failure, and even fiat dealers can have trouble diagnosing the problem. also the coil tends to fail fairly often.
before you assume a new fuel pump relay or ecu is needed you should test your injectors and coil. the resistance of a 'good' injector is usually 14.5-15ohms, although 14ohms is acceptible, any less and the injector is in need of replacement. to test them you can disconnect the injecotor wiring harness multiplug, its to the right of the fuel rail. there are 5 pins in the connector, the cenre pin is earth, the other 4 are each for an injector. measire the resistance across the center pins and each of the other 4. the HT outputs on the coil can also be tested for resistance. measure the resistance across the 1 and 3 outputs, then compare this to the resistance across the 2 and 4 outputs, similarly you can test the coil LT input pins in a similar fashion. both measurements (1&3 vs 2&4) should be very similar (within 10% of each other) a large difference would indicate a coil failure.
you said your car died on you, if that means the engine will not run at all the coil is most likely the culprit, if the car starts but idles very rought then an injector is more likely to be the cause. this is because a coil failure will affect 2 cylinders making it practically impossible for the engine to run, whereas an injector failure will only affect one cylinder and cause rough running.
if the engine will start you can also do the test in a more simple way, with the engine running you can reomve one plug lead and then replace it before removing the next. the removal of each lead should make a noticable difference to the revs, they should appear to drop. if removing one lead makes no difference then the injector on that cylinder may be faulty, if you notice no differnce on 2 leads the coil is more likely the cause.
if you can describe the car's problems in more detail i'm sure we can find the problem, also the results of the above tests would help with the diagnosis.
Hi thanku for that, no the car doesnt run at all, it just cut out on me i have been told by a mechanic that the fuel pump isnt working so it was either the relay or the ecu, no warning lights came on at all when she went either, she tries to start but doesnt actually manage to tick over!!!!! i have been told that the relay is under a black plastic cover on the engine bulkhead but i am a woman so its like talking french to me really! oh and could anyone possibly tell me what the 2 yellow boxes are for behind my glove box are these anything to do with the relay or are they just fuses????
the 2 yellow boxes are relays, one is for central locking, i cant remember what the other is for.
if the fuel pump relay is in the engine bay it will most likely be under the plastic cover at the back right when looking into the engine bay, there is one screw on the plastic cover, romiving it will allow you to level it off, insode are several fused and relays. on the underside of the plastic cover there is a diagram explaining which fuse/relay does what.
are you sure the fuel pump isnt faulty? the relay is a good place to start because it will be very cheap to replace, but you can easily find out if the pump has failed by wiring it to a direct live from the battery.
if the fuel pump relay is in the engine bay it will most likely be under the plastic cover at the back right when looking into the engine bay, there is one screw on the plastic cover, romiving it will allow you to level it off, insode are several fused and relays. on the underside of the plastic cover there is a diagram explaining which fuse/relay does what.
are you sure the fuel pump isnt faulty? the relay is a good place to start because it will be very cheap to replace, but you can easily find out if the pump has failed by wiring it to a direct live from the battery.
They are talking about the fuel pump fuse and possibly the ignition fuse (5amp and 20 amp if my memory serves me right) Which are fixed to the bulkhead behind a plastic cover just to the left of centre as you look at the car with the bonnet open.
I had a similar type of issue, had spark at the plugs but car just would not start - checked all the injectors which were OK and eventually found the my problem to be a faulty injector wiring loom. But replaced these fuses just as I was tracing the problem through.
These are just standard spade fuses that you can buy from Halfords for a couple of quid, its worth checking them first.
If the injector light comes on then its the injectors (which means it will be a bit more involved to fix)
I had a similar type of issue, had spark at the plugs but car just would not start - checked all the injectors which were OK and eventually found the my problem to be a faulty injector wiring loom. But replaced these fuses just as I was tracing the problem through.
These are just standard spade fuses that you can buy from Halfords for a couple of quid, its worth checking them first.
If the injector light comes on then its the injectors (which means it will be a bit more involved to fix)
Hi back again have changed every single fuse andrelay possible and checked the fuel pump all are working fine but the car is still not running anymore ideas??????? and where abouts is the coil as the injectors will be checked tomorrow
well my baby is back on the road and all it was, was the fuel cut off switch had been triggered all that time and money over something so simple!!! but shes back on the road and i would like to thank those who gave me some good advice
I had that happen to me i done a 3 point turn and hit the front wheel which cut the switch the car got me home though. what a **** i felt next morning when the AA come and just pressed the button and it started.
hi jug, plz can u help me continuing removing fuel pump step by step? my car is punto mk1 1999, and i reached an advance steps 1) i reached the fuel pump location, 2)i removed the metal cover under the rear seat, 3) i removed wiring plug, remove fuel pipe, then unscrew the large ring around, till now every thing was cool, i pulled up the pump out of tank vertically and i saw it all, but i saw a thin metal wire connected to the pump and the other end is go in the tank which is still stuck. my questions is what is this wire? and how i can release thise metal wire in order to remove the pump outside the car? thanks in advace..
i have never seen a metal wire there before 
can you post a photo of where it attaches to the fuel pump?
can you post a photo of where it attaches to the fuel pump?
hi jug, this is the metal rod connect to pump and goes down to tha tank, in order to read the level indication of petrol. but i dont know how to pull it out from tank which is make me remove all the pump. any idea? ill try to attach some photo about it.i have never seen a metal wire there before
can you post a photo of where it attaches to the fuel pump?
oh you mean the rod that attaches to the sender unit!!
it should come out the tank easily, there is a float on the end of the rod that is attached to nothing. if it is stuck to something then remove the sender unit from the pump.
it should come out the tank easily, there is a float on the end of the rod that is attached to nothing. if it is stuck to something then remove the sender unit from the pump.
