Technical Slow Passenger Window Solution

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Technical Slow Passenger Window Solution

maniacbravo

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So, I know this has been posted before but it has never been actually solved. Now I'm ready to take apart the whole interior to solve this. Now my passenger side window has been slow since I owned the car, I replaced the window switches (all three of them), replaced the window motor and lubed it like theres no tomorrow. Same Problem.

So I started by isolating the problem, removed the switch and connected a 12V computer power supply to the white/violet and white/red wires, and it goes down normally, so the motor, door wiring and rubber/lube are out of the question.

Now I'm turning to relays/fuses/wiring. Been testing voltages between the red and orange/ red/green wires on the passenger side switch (these two wires act as a ground through the driver side switch) and there is always 12V between the wires at both switches (driver and passenger sides), so +12V and ground connections are good.

The problem arises when the window is operated, (passenger side) as the window goes down, only 9.5V is supplied to the motor and when going up, only 7.5V :O is supplied to the motor (no wonder it goes up slow) , at the driver side switch, the voltages drop to 11.5 when going down and 10V when going up.

So the next step is to check the connections between switches (I need to take out the wiring diagrams for this one), check the relays and fuses for possible corrosion causing the voltage drop.

Any help from anyone is appriciated, especially if you have any electrician experience :)

I'll try to keep this updated until it is SOLVED :)
 
I timed the driver side window using the car electronics, the passenger side window using the cars electronics and the passenger side window using the external power supply. The driver side window takes 3 second to go from dead bottom all the way up. The passenger side window on the cars electrics takes a whopping 9 seconds all the way up while on the external power supply it takes just 4 seconds.
 
this sounds like a good project, i'll be interested if you make any progress. i'm not too hot on lectronics so i doubt i will be much help, but even so, out of curiosity, when testing the voltages, did you measure the circuit with, or without the motor connected, could the voltage drop be due to resistance in the motor or even the wires?
 
Yep when testing the motor was connected, I will try it again without it to see if it makes a difference but I doubt it. The driver side motor always gets 12v whether on or off so it is now a process of elimination to find the culprit. I'm suspecting a connector block or a corroded wire.
 
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