I have a 1999 1.4 Ltr FIAT Bravo that has been running without problems for years.

All of a sudden a few days ago I went to start the engine and the KEYCODE light stayed on and I heard a clicking sound in syn with the INJECTOR WARNING LIGHT that keeps coming on and off. When I try to start the engine, it turns over but the engine doesnt start.

Sometimes the keycode warning light did stay on and i simply take out the key and insert it again and all was fine.

Initially my mechanic thought it was a problem with the keycode antenna and I changed that but the problem seems intermittent as a few days later I faced the same problem again with the 'clicking noise' and the injector light coming on and off (apart from the keycode light which stays on).

The mechanic ran a diagnostic but found nothing wrong with the car and its starting normally for the last few days. Now he's telling me that he's suspecting its an ECU problem ... which means an expensive fix, and im not too keen on changing the ECU if the mechanic himself isnt sure about it in the first place.

Any ideas on what the problem might be? I REALLY NEED YOUR HELP!!

Hello, welcome to the forum.


ECU's are normally the last thing to suspect since the are usually very reliable and very expensive, maybe the wires that go into the ECU have a bad connection or damage. Can you identify where the clicking is coming from, maybe since its clicking you could check all the relays in the car.


I would recommend starting with the two relays and fuses inside the engine bay that are mounted against the firewall which are for the fuel pump and ignition system.


Parts 3 and 5 on this diagram;



Cleaning as many electrical contacts as you can works wonders and reduces the number of variables you might be working with. Don't forget the fuel pump in the boot.

Hey thanks for the insight and detailed feedback!

Your reasoning does make a lot of sense especially since the 'clicking sound' seems to be coming from the relays you indicated (parts 3 and 5 on your diagram).

My mechanic insists there is no way of knowing if the fuses and relays are working incorrectly because he says the diagnostic isn't giving him any such results but that is because the fault is intermittent I presume. I'll try to convince him to clean the contacts as you suggested and see how things go.

thanks

Even try changing those two relays, I got a few spare from another fiat in a scrap yard

URGENT Re: 1998 FIAT Brava 1.4 Ltr - Starting Problem

Ok so we tried going through all relays and contacts and still the problem persisted. In the heat of the moment I hit the ecu my mistake and all of a sudden the problem stopped and the car started again...I guess its obvious now that the ECU is at fault would you agree? Whenever the car doesnt start...I tap on the ECU and it starts normally. We checked all connections and they are fine.

Looks like I need a new replacement, only problem is that I dont have the engine code that comes along with the key and what I have is a chassis number and an engine number...is there a way how I can find out the ECU type which I need??

I found a complete ECU with ignition and keys for a cheap price but its from a 1997 (not 1998) model although its still a 1.4 litre petrol engine...would that ecu work on my car??

PLEASE HELP!!!!

Well I would think the ECU should work with the car, I don't think the 1.4's changed much. If the model / part numbers match then it should be OK, but make sure that you don't also need an extra immobiliser box with the replacement ECU and key - I don't know the exact setup on these cars.

My late model 1.2 had a dodgy ECU and I got it repaired quickly in the UK - but the total cost was £250 ....

Hi Thanks for the quick reply bluejohn!!

Sorry for being an idiot but I assume I can find the part number on the ecu? They should match exactly am I understanding you right?

thanks!!

I had a similar problem. My Bravo 80SX 16v (1249cc 2001) would intermittently refuse to start then wouldn't start at all. I initially rang a local Fiat dealer for the emergency code. It cost £20 and enabled me to get the car started but it takes exactly 1 minute to start the car using the code (see drivers handbook for procedure). I drove around like that for far too long but now that I want to give the car to my daughter I looked around for the cheapest way to fix. I narrowed it down to 4 options as follows (I chose option 3 which worked nicely and was prob the cheapest):
1) Take car to garage/dealer (that is capable/willing) £150 upwards
2)Take off the ECU and IM and post to ECU doctor or similar to virginise. This will means you lose security but car will always start (might want a steering lock etc.. if you take that option) cost approx. £160 plus postage
3)Purchase the Immobiler, ECU, Car computer/fusebox and key on ebay or from scrapyard all from same car and same model as yours so that the key transponder, ECU and IMM are matched. (see attachment)
Fit them yourself (you only need a 10mm spanner and to take are pressing the release catches on wire connectors before pulling then off. Cost £75 NB. Also supplied was an ignition switch, door barrel and petrol cap to match the new key but I opted to tape the new key and the key reader under the dash using insulation tape and cable tie and use my old keys with transponder removed to open and turn car over as car is no longer worth much and I can get a spare key cheaply as and when my daughter loses them.
4) Buy an EEPROM burner like a GQ-4X 2nd hand and get the software for your model of car and viginise your immobiliser so that it no longer needs code. Sell the GQ-4X on Ebay if a one off.See intructions on YouTube somewhere (lost link sorry). £???


Good luck, hope this helps. I am very grateful to the chap who sold me the bits on Ebay as it worked beautifully. I hope if you go for this this option you also find a reliable seller.