hi there guys,the tick over at times can be uneven,when i start the car in a morning the engine revs itself very high until i drive off,started doing it 2 week ago.also when im driving the car seems to lack power,when i accelarate it hesitates they flys forward,usually this happens in gears 1-3,trying to teach my wife to drive so you can imagine the frustration from both of us especially me,any help would be really appreciated.thanx. :bang: :bang:
Technical flat spots on my 1.2
- Thread starter albaby
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Technical flat spots on my 1.2
its always worth putting a bottle of injector cleaner in the petrol it often helps and is only £5
That's one heck of a flat spot! On my 1.2 the engine rpm is around 1000-1200 on startup and settles nicely when warm to a dead level 800rpm.
Assuming your air filter to be clean and no problems with spark plugs and leads (ie not misfiring) then I would reset the ECU by disconnecting a battery lead overnight and let the engine relearn the best settings. It will definitely be different while it relearns the best settings.
The other thing is my 1.2 doesn't like stalling and "starts all over" with base settings for 5mins or so even when you restart it from warm so if you're teaching your wife and you get a stall it's like the engine tells you off for the next 5mins with lumpy running. Gotta learn to get smooth FAST in a 1.2
Assuming your air filter to be clean and no problems with spark plugs and leads (ie not misfiring) then I would reset the ECU by disconnecting a battery lead overnight and let the engine relearn the best settings. It will definitely be different while it relearns the best settings.
The other thing is my 1.2 doesn't like stalling and "starts all over" with base settings for 5mins or so even when you restart it from warm so if you're teaching your wife and you get a stall it's like the engine tells you off for the next 5mins with lumpy running. Gotta learn to get smooth FAST in a 1.2
Deckchair5 said:
thats an odd one. Had a stall or two in mines in the past and i've just restarted and carried on and it runs as it did before cutting out.
That would be lovely if it just restarted and carried on as normal. My 1.2 goes into "sulk mode" after a stall and I guess ignores the oxygen sensor just like a cold start for the next 5mins as if the engine is saying "We just stalled guys, there must be something wrong, go back to get you home settings until we sort out what's wrong"
After a 5 min "warm up" everything is fine again. Right pain. I just don't stall these days! If you have any ideas I'm all big ears!
Back to the original qustion though, engines do go off tune with time as engines wear differently and what was OK 20k miles ago isn't so now so I think all engines could do with a ECU reset particularly if a major change to engine components has been done. Even air filter or plugs.
After a 5 min "warm up" everything is fine again. Right pain. I just don't stall these days! If you have any ideas I'm all big ears!
Back to the original qustion though, engines do go off tune with time as engines wear differently and what was OK 20k miles ago isn't so now so I think all engines could do with a ECU reset particularly if a major change to engine components has been done. Even air filter or plugs.
Deckchair5 said:
It always makes me smile this one - why overnight, does it do it better under cover of darkness :-0
Like the Charles and Camilla honeymoon suite, some things are best done under cover of darkness
Ozric-Al
Established member
This one comes up quite a lot on the Bravo forum but I can't remember what causes it. Try asking the same question over there.
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Assuming your
air filter to be good (change it if you're in doubt)
plugs good
plug leads check resistance, usually about 5k
The fact things changed when you did an ECU reset does point to tuning so might be lambda sensor. This doesn't work though until the engine is warmed up at least 5 mins. That'll certainly give you lumpy acceleration but also poor fuel economy. Should be getting 350miles per tank on 1.2 400 miles on a run 450 if you're really good. Around town all the time and learner driving maybe 280miles per tank. With lambda sensor gone then it'll be 280miles per tank if you're lucky all the time
Give us some more clues. Does it start well. How high do the revs go on start up. Does it settle when it's warm after 10 mins? Is the tickover steady? What miles per tank are you getting? How many miles has it done? When were the plugs last checked/ changed? Have you changed the plug leads? Have you checked the air filter?
air filter to be good (change it if you're in doubt)
plugs good
plug leads check resistance, usually about 5k
The fact things changed when you did an ECU reset does point to tuning so might be lambda sensor. This doesn't work though until the engine is warmed up at least 5 mins. That'll certainly give you lumpy acceleration but also poor fuel economy. Should be getting 350miles per tank on 1.2 400 miles on a run 450 if you're really good. Around town all the time and learner driving maybe 280miles per tank. With lambda sensor gone then it'll be 280miles per tank if you're lucky all the time
Give us some more clues. Does it start well. How high do the revs go on start up. Does it settle when it's warm after 10 mins? Is the tickover steady? What miles per tank are you getting? How many miles has it done? When were the plugs last checked/ changed? Have you changed the plug leads? Have you checked the air filter?
Ozric-Al
Established member
Just had a look for this problem on the Barvo Forum and it could be one of two common faults -
1) Idle control valve is knackered;
2) Throttle body is knackered.
As the 1.2, like the 155HGT is fly by wire it could very well be the throttle body.
1) Idle control valve is knackered;
2) Throttle body is knackered.
As the 1.2, like the 155HGT is fly by wire it could very well be the throttle body.
