Technical Engine Flush and Oil Change

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Technical Engine Flush and Oil Change

hangten

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My 1.4 Brava is coming up for an oil change and I am aware of the issues with blocking of the spray bar and oil starvation to the cam etc. I am considering having an engine flush prior to the new oil being put in.

I have heard of people having problems (e.g. tappets being noisier than before or in some cases a seize up) after an engine flush due to loose "gunge" being left behind & blocking oil ways etc. Has anyone on the forum come accross such problems? Would it be a good idea to do a second oil change shortly after to ensure that all the gunk is out? Is it worth cleaning the spray bar regularly?

Any comments or opinions gratefully received.

Thanks
 
The engine flush should clean out most of the gunge, it is unlikely that it will cause any problems. If the oil is that dirty then you can get blockages anyway.
If your tappets are worn then you may get some extra noise, you can get an additive to quiet them down, but you really need to get them replaced if they are as bad as that. (Dirty oil and varnish simply hides the noise, it does not stop them self destructing when they get too worn).

If you are really concerned about your oil then you can flush and fill with a cheap oil and an oil cleaning additive for a few hundred miles. But I would only do this if your existing oil has started to turn into tar.
 
Polecat, thanks for your reply and advice. All seems to be in relatively good order so far, so I will go for a flush prior to changing the oil and hopefully keep things that way.
 
If you have been using a synthetic oil then there should be no reason to flush as the detergents in modern synthetics are extremely efficient.

Most flushes contain paraffins/kerosene and are not good for the engine. It's preferable to use a decent oil and not flush.

Cheers
Guy
 
oilman said:
If you have been using a synthetic oil then there should be no reason to flush as the detergents in modern synthetics are extremely efficient.

Most flushes contain paraffins/kerosene and are not good for the engine. It's preferable to use a decent oil and not flush.

Cheers
Guy
you never did reply to the other thread, with me asking if my oil was any good :(
 
Dave,

Sorry, must have missed that one, what did you want to know?

Cheers

Guy.
 
oilman said:
Dave,

Sorry, must have missed that one, what did you want to know?

Cheers

Guy.

dave said:
my oil says fully synthetic
API-SL/CF
ACEA A3/B3-98
says on the back "is a fully synthetic engine oil desinged for todays hight preformance engines providing high tempature protection.
its made by granvil oil and chemicals ltd.

its £16 for 5ltrs am i being ripped off?
thanks
 
Dave,

Went and had a look at their site, definately a hydrocracked mineral oil but it is hard to tell from the tech data available. The pour point is a little low for a 5w-40 full synthetic, a true synthetic will pour down to -35> -50 ideally I need the HTHS numbers to be sure on base stock quality.

But £16 for 5ltr is cheap in the oil world, a good semi synthetic is more than that so should give you an idea as you generally get what you pay for.

Cheers

Guy.
 
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