Technical DIY Cambelt Change

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Technical DIY Cambelt Change

Duggers2000

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Am debating having a go at replacing my cambelt myself (76k - beginning to worry!!)

How many people have actually done this [successfully] and which is the best method??

I have read the Haynes method (botch up some cam-locking tools) and the BOO method (to hell with the cam-locking tools) but don't know which way to attempt.

I have priced up the parts I think I need for my 1.2 80SX 16v and it comes to £107 including VAT. That's for Belt kit, water pump, aux belts, anti freeze, tea and biscuits. Hopefully that's everything??

Someone has offered to fit above for £130, but I have no come-back if it all goes t!ts-up.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated (even if it is DON'T DO IT) especially relating to any special / unusual tools that I may need to acquire.

Many thanks

Duggers
 
don't think you can tension the belt properly without the cam lock tools.

thats right because of the having to leave the cam pully loose to tension right. ive checked many now that have been timed with out tools and they are never right when you put the tools in

haynes is wrong that you need 2 though one tool at the front and the 4 dowles is fine for belt change
 
Do you reckon the botched tools in the Haynes are ok - or should I buy the Fiat ones from Shop4Parts??

I take it the BOO method is a no-no then?
 
A fiat main dealer did the belt and pump on mine for £200. I thought about doing it myself but preferred to play it safe as the consequences of cocking it up are pretty dire!
 
i sourced, bought and fitted a whole engine to a bravo 80sx for about that.

Plus doing your own jobs gives you knowledge and confidence. ;)

doing a cambelt is like walking on a plank a hundred feet up you could do it and would definately try it, if it was only 1 foot up because there are no consequences if you fall off. The actual job is not hugely difficult, its the consequences if it goes wrong.

With the tools and the forum you will be fine, but is up to you how confident you feel.
 
I wussed out and am having it done today by a cambelt specialist. If I had a bit more time and didn't need my car for work, then I'd have given it a go.

Hopefully it'll be done properly - the guy sounded like he knew what he was doing. Guess I'll have to wait and see when I pick it up!!

Thanks for all your help. Sorry to have been such a Jessie.
 
might be a stupid question but.... how much damage can be done if the timing is out ???? ( if only slightly out )

cheers
 
All done!! Seems to be fine. Water pump didn't require replacing, so all in it was £215 which was the cheapest quote I had.

Ballacher wanted £243 plus when I asked how much it would be if the water pump required replacing I was told "Oh - we'd quote you for that as and when" - no thanks!!(n)

Again, thanks for all your help - maybe I'll be braver next time round!!
 
Plus doing your own jobs gives you knowledge and confidence. ;)

doing a cambelt is like walking on a plank a hundred feet up you could do it and would definately try it, if it was only 1 foot up because there are no consequences if you fall off. The actual job is not hugely difficult, its the consequences if it goes wrong.

With the tools and the forum you will be fine, but is up to you how confident you feel.

Very true but take into account having a decent set of tools, time to finish the job (dont do it that evening if you need it for work next day) and somewhere to do it, working on car in the street can be tiresome with kids coming up saying 'wot u doin mister':bang:
 
Is there a guide for doing this anywhere?

I am planning on changing the belt on our Bravo 1.2

I don't fancy buying a haynes manual as normally they are useless.

I have done a few belts on other cars, mostly Alfa's so I have some experience of doing belts.

Cheers
 
you really need the tools for the 1.2.

there is no cam locking pin or timing marks on the cam, the position is when all 4 pistons are level through the spark plug holes, you need to keep them in position while tensioning the belt and while doing up the camshaft pulley.
 
That sounds like a strange way of doing it. All of the other engines that I have done belt changes on require number 1 piston to be at TDC on the compression stroke.

I bet there are no marks on the crank pulleys either.
 
it is safer for the engine to have the pistons all set at equal distance down the bore, imagine you were turning the top end over to line it up and had number 1 at TDC, you're gonna knock valves into it.

having timed engines that need it at TDC, and then engines that are simply locked at the top end, and dowels inserted, then locked (in gear, brakes on), the locking way is simpler and less error prone.
 
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