Technical Timing a 1.2 16v

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Technical Timing a 1.2 16v

remove cam lock hole cover, turn cam until it lines up, insert locking tool (with help from hammer). Loosen cam pulley.

into each spark plug hole, place an equal length dowel. Turn bottom end over by hand until all 4 dowels are level.

Run belt round the pulleys, loosen the tensioner, set tensioner, tighten tensioner, tighten cam pulley. Remove cam lock tool.
 
tryed that but it made the car seep fuel and air mix out of the air filter

:confused:

that means it was forcing fuel/air mix back into the intake, so the timing was way out and the piston is travelling up instead of down when the intake valve is open. most likey its out by 180 degrees.
 
So does that mean we have to turn the crank around 360 or just 180? because we tried orginally 360 and it didn't make a difference
 
when you refitted the alternator pulley, did you take care to note the locating dimple on the back? if not then car will be injecting fuel at the wrong time.. but then again thinking about, that would dump it out the exhaust - not back out the inlet.
 
so does that mean we have to turn the crank around 360 or just 180? Because we tried orginally 360 and it didn't make a difference

180

then pistons will all be in the same place again, but on the opposite stroke. it should then be correct.
 
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my mate went down fiat today and asked about the timing tools for me, they told him for that cam locking tool and the piston tool think it will take about 2 month to come through

:eek:
 
rte got the car timed right but ive noticed that the injecter light stays on, i have also found that when i remove the ht from the spark plug when it running nothing changes, ive taken it out and found that the spark plug is wet with fuel also the spark it there ive checked it ( second cylinder from belt)
 
if removing the lead with engine running makes no difference on that clyinder, and you know that the plug and lead are definately fine and sparkign, then the only possible problems are a head gasket leak on that cylinder (common on a 1.2) or an injector fault on that cylinder (very rare on the 1.2).

if the problem isn't only on that clyinder (if removing the lead from another cylinder also makes no noticable difference) then you have multiple misfires and it means the timing is slightly out.
 
if removing the lead with engine running makes no difference on that clyinder, and you know that the plug and lead are definately fine and sparkign, then the only possible problems are a head gasket leak on that cylinder (common on a 1.2) or an injector fault on that cylinder (very rare on the 1.2).

we had exactly this problem when fitting the new engine in the brava the other week. i think it was number 3 that wasn't playing nicely. My compression tester wouldn't fit and we knew spark as ok, so we took the fuel rail and injectors off and fired them into the air. It was clear number 3 injector wasn't firing properly. Removed and reseated, re connected it and rebuilt and after that the injector light went off and the car has been fine since.
 
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if the timing was out dont you think that injecter light would of gone out :confused:
no, if the ecu detects any fault at all it illuminates the light.
a misfire on all cylinders is a noticable fault.


arc said:
took the fuel rail and injectors off and fired them into the air.
tbh that is what i do too, but its very dangerous so i have never once mentioned it on the forum. if the spray catches your skin then you only have a short while to live. its a simple and useful test, but please do it carefully.
 
hey i took it apart and started again , rebuilt it all up and found that the injecter 2 plug was a bit loose so i adapted it a little, reasebled everything and everything runns brilliant now, :D:D:D:D:D

thankyou everyone for all your help you guys have saved me alote of time and money :worship:

thankyou once again (y)
 
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