General Anyone changed an alternator on a Bravo JTD?

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General Anyone changed an alternator on a Bravo JTD?

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My time to ask a question.

For a while now everytime i started my car I would get a tweeting noise coming from my auxilary belts area until the car warmed up after 5-10mins. Anyway i decided to have a go, once and for all to try and fix the problem for good.

Common causes are usually the adjustable tensioner, crank pulley or fixed idler pulley. So i changed the adjustable tensioner and the idler pulley only to have solved part of my noisey morning start up. Basically the noise has reduced significantly since i replaced the idler pulley (bearings shot) but the tensioner i replaced was perfectly fine but replaced for good measure.

I know the crank pulley and air con is fine and silent but under futher investigation I noticed my alternator tweeting when the belts are going round. Its not as bad as it was but i want to get rid of any of the noises i once had. Pit as the alternator itself is fine and works.

So i was wondering how easy it is to replace the alternator on a JTD. Haynes doesn't cover diesels, the porters manual has 3 small sentences on the matter making you think its extremely easy, so was wondering if anyone here has had a go at it. I know theres very little room to do anything in there but any advice welcome.

I've already sourced a new alternator, now all i need to do is buy it and fit it. Then hopefully i will just have the diesel clatter in the mornings and no "tweeting" except for the birds.
 
Hi mate,

Its fairly straight forward (no different to most cars), although as you quite rightly say, the biggest problem is access!

Alan
 
Any advice then? Besides the WD40 which i did, i accidentally got the belt a bit too so now when i rev the car it squeels and its not the bearing doing it. LOL.

On a 2.4JTD i can assume it would be similar but still different.

In regards to removal hows it done? Does anyone have any workshop manuals describing the removal. I cannot find it in mine. All that i know is that you need to disconnect the cables and undo the two bolts. Whats the removal procedure???

Thanks.
 
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Hi mate,

You can remove the bolt at the base of the dipstick tube, and then remove the dipstick tube. This gives you more access. I sometimes dont bother, but have it down to a bit of a nack now.
Remove the plastic bracket that holds the alternoator wiring
Unplug/bolt the alternator wiring from the alternator.
Undo the upper alternator mounting bolt
Undo the lower alternator bolt
Remove the alternator from underneath the engine.

May help to remove the drivers side wheel and wheel arch liner if your still struggeling for space. You coul also remove upper engine mount and lower gearbox mount if more space is still needed.

Alan
 
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Regarding....

-Undo the 19mm gearbox mount under the car

Gearbox mount, isn't that on the opposite side of the car?
Whats the purpose of doing this?

-Undo the 4 bolts at the top timing belt side of the engine that connect the engine support to the inlet manifold.

Not sure which 4 bolts you mean? Does it need to be supported? Is this support near the aircon pulley.

Hows the alternator removed from the under the wheel arch or from under the car?

Thanks Alan.
 
Hi mate,

Re the gearbox mount and the engine support, i should of added, i dont normally do this.... I manage to get it out without (like with the dipstick) If you were to remove them, you would need to support the engine with a trolly jack or similar. It allows you to drop it down slightly.

the alternator come out underneath the car.

Alan
 
Hi mate,

Re the gearbox mount and the engine support, i should of added, i dont normally do this.... I manage to get it out without (like with the dipstick) If you were to remove them, you would need to support the engine with a trolly jack or similar. It allows you to drop it down slightly.

the alternator come out underneath the car.

Alan

So technically i can remove it with just having to remove the oil dipstick? I do not have ramps you see so i will be working on it through the wheel arch.
 
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you should be able to replace the bearings if the alternator itself is OK - btw, WD40 is usually only a temporary cure - it tends to cause any remaining grease in a bearing to dissolve and run out through the seals.. thus accellerating failure.
 
Whats the removal procedure???
slip the belt off
disconnect alternator wiring (iirc one small connector and one big bolted on connection)
remove bolts (2 of them iirc, you need to hold the nuts on the back of them, realistically you need to remove the wheel arch to get at them unless the car is raised, and short ring spanners are the best way to hold the nuts on the end of the bolts)
job done (if you can get the alternator out with all the crap in the way)

sounds easy, but as you know already the belt tensioner can help you lose a couple of fingers if you lose concentration and the alternator bolts aren't in the easiest of places to get at them, and there is very little space to get the alternator out the way even when it is free.

JoskeJTD said:
the WD40 which i did, i accidentally got the belt a bit too
that little red straw is your friend :D

stylers said:
btw, WD40 is usually only a temporary cure - it tends to cause any remaining grease in a bearing to dissolve and run out through the seals.. thus accellerating failure.
i agree, but a very small spray is usually enough to make the dried grease turn back into grease, using too much will wash the grease out but the right amount does the trick.
 
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Well good news i finally sorted out the annoying squeel.

Panic over, it was the auxilary belt. Changed it and now the start ups are silent (well except for the diesel clatter).

Comparing the old and new belt there was a noticable difference in size. Further investigation i found the old belt to be 35mm longer than the new one. The old belt was for a TD and not a JTD.

Anyway got the new belt on and im very happy again.
 
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