General Supercharged Brava project

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General Supercharged Brava project

as for the brakes i 'think' the marea/bravo 20v 284mm calipers will bolt onto your hubs, however might be best to let someone confirm, also they will fit under your 15's and make them look fuller :)

i think so too, but i seem to remember the last time i suggested that i was told otherwise in the bravo/a section. cant find the thread sorry.
 
you're not really comparing the ease of fitting a slightly larger superFIRE engine to a car that already has a superFIRE engine to fitting a 20vT engine are you?
 
the difference in difficulty would be small compared to the difference in gains. in my mind if you're gonna do a conversion you might as well make it worth while, and worth the money you spend on it. a turbocharged 1.2 or 1.4 wont be as fast as a bog standard 20v so it wouldnt be something i would ever consider, but a 20vT conversion will make a quick car, or even better a 20vS.
 
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We are now considering cooling - or if we even need it? Options are: nothing, intercooler or charge-cooler. I'm swaying towards the middle option - OK it's a large engine bay and never really gets that warm but there's going to be a lot less space and a bit more heat in there - and it's relatively inexpensive. Don't think it will be running hot enough to justify a chargecooler but it has nolvelty value, doesn't work out tooooooooo costly and takes up a lot less room.
 
You may live to regret saying that Chris! I think I'll sleep on it and I'm pretty much decided I want some form of extra cooling and I'm pretty much decided I don't mind spending a bit for nolvelty value but then it's complicated and if I don't really need it and we're going round in circles :bang: I'll sleep on it :D
 
We are now considering cooling - or if we even need it? Options are: nothing, intercooler or charge-cooler. I'm swaying towards the middle option - OK it's a large engine bay and never really gets that warm but there's going to be a lot less space and a bit more heat in there - and it's relatively inexpensive. Don't think it will be running hot enough to justify a chargecooler but it has nolvelty value, doesn't work out tooooooooo costly and takes up a lot less room.

realistically, forced induction means you should cool the intake. FMIC would be my choice. any kind of forced induction heats up the intake air, i know you wont have high boost, but you will still benefit from an IC.
 
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Helz

if your are doing something this mad you have no option but to got all the way :eek:

But to stop you short of sleeping with every helpfull poster (unless that is what you really want :eek:) just cool your charge

it will be worth it in the long run

Is that a slightly cryptic way of saying charge cooler? :eek: I promise not to sleep with every helpful poster on here, a 'thanks' point will have to do (not sure if that will get me more or less help :confused:) :)
 
if supercharging and as a everyday car i wouldnt bother cooling the charge, but if all out performance is wanted then cool it, or even better nos lol.

about the headgasket, talk to ferraday engineering, they are top quality headgaskets. i had a alu one first they are **** pop before even your headgasket does (to save your engine), i now have a copper one which is 1.5mm thick and to say its survived one engine blowing up already and still is as new. i was speaking to the guy and i asked him i wanted a 3mm thick one to replace the headgasket and combined decomp plate, he advised me this was not a good idea as its basically then a metal plate and not a gasket, he said youd have to get the engine block flatted and same with the head, but mentioned even then people still had some probs.
 
Interesting project this, hope it goes well for you.

What power are you aiming for?

Regarding the old chestnut of turning your fuel pressure up to compensate for the increased boost and thus give more power, this WONT work, and you are just as likely to end up with a melted engine.

If your fuel pump is supplying 3.5bar fuel pressure at tickover (fairly common pressure), and you are running, for arguments sake, 1 bar boost, your fuel will need to be delivered at 4.5bar (65.25psi) This is because the signal pipe (little black pipe connected from regulator to inlet) acts on a diaphram with a 1:1 ratio to increase line pressure as boost increases. This also works in reverse, decresing pressure as inlet pressure drops.

Usually when you arent getting enough fuel (it'll be obvious why in your case, you have a blower supplying extra air) you need to look at why, maybe the alternator is getting too hot at high rpm and starving the pump and injectors of voltage? Very common and simple to fix.
The common bodge is to turn the pressure up. Lets say you add another bar of fuel pressure to compensate. That means your fuel system now needs to provide 5.5bar. Remember that as pressure increases, the delivery ability of the pump goes down, not to mention the extra current you will be asking of the wiring.

Theres a reason almost all standard fuel regulators are anti tamper ;)

You'll need bigger injectors, and probably a higher rated fuel pump, and make sure the wiring to it is capable of handling the extra current.

I dont know if they will fit, but I have a set of std bravo HGT injectors you can have for postage cost, and will soon have a 20v turbo coupe intercooler if you want it? Runs mine around 270bhp all day with no probs. Nice and compact, and will bolt straight in.

I'll keep an eye on this thread, liking it!!

Steve
 
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