what grade wet and dry do i need?

Currently reading:
what grade wet and dry do i need?

Joined
Nov 26, 2004
Messages
15,373
Points
3,148
Location
southend on sea, essex
This post contains affiliate links which may earn a commission at no additional cost to you.
when debadging,and filling holes, i got a little walk through for you :)
-step 1. remove badge,remove any excess glue around it and remove any interior trim to allow you to get to the rear of the hole left by the badge(if any)

step 2.glue in place a small piece of metal,a 2 p or 1p if ya rich enuf ;) from behind then stand around looking stupid while the glue dries

step 3. (do this if the hole doesnt got all the way through)
fill the small hole with filler,wait for it to dry,start of with 120grade,move to 180,then 600,then finaly 1200 until perfectly smooth(keeping the paper wet).

step 4.use your touch up stick to carefuly build the paint up just proud of the original paint.

step 5.t cut the built up paint back to the original paint level.

step 6.hey presto! debadged,de holed car!
OR
if your rubbing down for spraying, again use the filling the hole,skimming with filler sanding down technique.but start with 120 grade on a rubber sanding block ,and then 180 grade, (keeping it wet)
then go to 400,then 600,then 1200,give it a light priming ,sand out any imperfections.then a light mist coat of black( black shows up imperfections brilliantly,hence why the preparation to spray a black car cost costs more(y) ) ,get rid of any final blemishes,then paint!
hope this helped you :p
 
Last edited:
:yeahthat: go get it from your local autofactors,or if your realy naughty,go to hellfrauds ..sorryy halfrauds..damn just cant get it right;)
 
when debadging,and filling holes, i got a little walk through for you :)
-step 1. remove badge,remove any excess glue around it and remove any interior trim to allow you to get to the rear of the hole left by the badge(if any)

step 2.glue in place a small piece of metal,a 2 p or 1p if ya rich enuf ;) from behind then stand around looking stupid while the glue dries

step 3. (do this if the hole doesnt got all the way through)
fill the small hole with filler,wait for it to dry,start of with 120grade,move to 180,then 600,then finaly 1200 until perfectly smooth(keeping the paper wet).

step 4.use your touch up stick to carefuly build the paint up just proud of the original paint.

step 5.t cut the built up paint back to the original paint level.

step 6.hey presto! debadged,de holed car!
OR
if your rubbing down for spraying, again use the filling the hole,skimming with filler sanding down technique.but start with 120 grade on a rubber sanding block ,and then 180 grade, (keeping it wet)
then go to 400,then 600,then 1200,give it a light priming ,sand out any imperfections.then a light mist coat of black( black shows up imperfections brilliantly,hence why the preparation to spray a black car cost costs more(y) ) ,get rid of any final blemishes,then paint!
hope this helped you :p
well iv nealry done it now, just need some more sanding and more primer.

but where iv filled, theres some tiny little air holes, what can i do about these? i dont have money to buy filler primer, and there tiny, dont think more filler will fill em.
 
well iv nealry done it now, just need some more sanding and more primer.

but where iv filled, theres some tiny little air holes, what can i do about these? i dont have money to buy filler primer, and there tiny, dont think more filler will fill em.

pop them with a pin and put a really thin layer of filler over so it fills the holes and sand again.
 
bow, by the time you pay postage on that you will get it cheaper in a shop!
that would mean boo would have to out into the unknown territory of the outside world, and all that bright light and stuff.,pmsl.,.:D :p

anyway:p
yep, ya need more filler, it common to have to go over it a couple of times so dont worry about it,(y)
 
well i cant be bothered lol, its not that bad really..

tbh mate ,if you want your car to look good,then u shud be bothered.its little things like that that make the difference,
its what, another ten minute job to fine skim and sand them to get rid of the holes? im now on my 5th skim on blending my skirts,and my fingers are smooth from the sandpaper! but the end result are worth it!either pop the holes with a pin like :yeahthat: or buy filler primer! you will only hate yourself if you dont :p and if water gets in,when you spray it,and it heats up,the paint will pop and crack!
 
tbh mate ,if you want your car to look good,then u shud be bothered.its little things like that that make the difference,
its what, another ten minute job to fine skim and sand them to get rid of the holes? im now on my 5th skim on blending my skirts,and my fingers are smooth from the sandpaper! but the end result are worth it!either pop the holes with a pin like :yeahthat: or buy filler primer! you will only hate yourself if you dont :p and if water gets in,when you spray it,and it heats up,the paint will pop and crack!

my car doesnt look good, its got damage all round it,

eg-

Image4652.jpg


S7000037.jpg


S7000013.jpg


Picture067-1.jpg


so if it looks good from 1 metre away, il be happy, and there tiny holes, not bubbles, i doubt they will make any difference tbh
 
Last edited:
they will ..trust me
if those little holes get water in them,then when it heats up on a hot day,the water evaporate etc and the paint will bubble and pop ,and you will blatantly see it.but its up to you mate!
 
they will ..trust me
if those little holes get water in them,then when it heats up on a hot day,the water evaporate etc and the paint will bubble and pop ,and you will blatantly see it.but its up to you mate!

if that happens, il stick the badges over the top, im only getting the boot sprayed cos its cheaper this way than buying a new window
 
Back
Top