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Old 23-08-2016   #16
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Re: Actually Dealing with Rust

Quote Originally Posted by SB1500 View Post
I'm thinking of painting over the areas with an old paint brush and used engine oil, that way I can remember to do it at each oil change, thick enough and should at least slow down the rate of it at least!
you should be able to get in there to at least attempt a primitive strip and repaint,

the oil won't last 5 minutes on a vertical face in reality
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Old 23-08-2016   #17
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Re: Actually Dealing with Rust

Quote Originally Posted by varesecrazy View Post
you should be able to get in there to at least attempt a primitive strip and repaint,

the oil won't last 5 minutes on a vertical face in reality
I did wire brush it as much as I could when I did the Kurust, but it does appear to be getting a bit orange again now!
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Old 23-08-2016   #18
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Re: Actually Dealing with Rust

Quote Originally Posted by SB1500 View Post
I did wire brush it as much as I could when I did the Kurust, but it does appear to be getting a bit orange again now!
because you didn't put a protective layer of PAINT over it..
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Old 23-08-2016   #19
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Re: Actually Dealing with Rust

Quote Originally Posted by varesecrazy View Post
because you didn't put a protective layer of PAINT over it..
I was scared I'd seal half protected / half rusted in and make it worse
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Old 23-08-2016   #20
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Re: Actually Dealing with Rust

well it's not CURED .. but you've done 75% of the job,

just do the same scrub and treat - followed by paint.

the joy of these little bits is it's all done in 30 min stints,
and the car is still useable
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Old 24-08-2016   #21
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Re: Actually Dealing with Rust

For the record this is how I remove rust and so I have set up a little demonstration using the old brake disc from the Fiat Tipo I am re building.

1 . Get a bottle of Bilt Hamber Deox Gel rust disolver, its very thick so can be used on vertical surfaces.

2. Paint some on nice and thick as you see on the brake drum and leave it 4 0r 5 hours, then scrub it off using a stiff brush or wire brush is much better with water, after drying put some more on and leave another 4-5 hours, after every wash you will see more clean bare metal appearing, finally inspect with a jeweler eye glass and make sure all the pits in the metal are rust free, paint immediately with zinc galvanizing under coat , then top coat, .

3. Job done, this is a very slow process but it turns the rusty metal back into clean bare metal, if you want to make a perfect job this is the way to do it.I also use this rust dissolver on rusted up nuts and bolts because as metal rusts it expands so rather than shear a nut off trying to un do it get all the rust off first and then it will undo easy.
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Old 24-08-2016   #22
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Re: Actually Dealing with Rust

Worn engine oil contains acid, that will speed up the rust process....
Not a good idea at all...
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Old 24-08-2016   #23
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Re: Actually Dealing with Rust

I agree with MD, a bottle of that Bilt Hamber is good stuff. It does exactly what it says on the tin/bottle. Once you've got the clean metal, a couple of coats of primer & a couple of coats of good metal paint. Preparation is the key, as always.
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Old 26-10-2016   #24
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Re: Actually Dealing with Rust

I like your mindset in keeping rust at bay at an early stage on what's generally viewed an average car, it's the same approach I had with a '95 Cinq that I bought when it was only 2 years old. Any early stages of rust would get treated without delay. I had it for 12 years and I know it's current owner; the Cinq. looks well at 21 years. Rust had managed to perforate the floor at the rear arches despite my efforts to keep rust at bay and scrupulous cleaning of the underside of the car.

I mainly used Hammerite paint as it was normally around the engine bay and arches that it was required so a proper finish wasn't important. An amateur approach I'll agree but it did the job.

Waxoyl is a good job for box sections and inside doors but that's all, sealing rust is ok so long as it's not flaking, is dry and will remain dry and that's what the Waxoyl will do by keeping moisture out.

I also used a black paint called POR 15 which was designed to be painted directly onto rust and apparently is used on offshore oil rigs etc. If you were treating bare metal a spray on blue coloured etch primer was used before the paint. Only problem was it would react to UV light so you were then left with the additional joy of overpainting it.

I also used an electronic device that was attached to the bodywork with two probes that was meant to reverse the charge on the bodywork. I think it was a waste of money as I saw no benefit in it.
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Old 26-10-2016   #25
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Re: Actually Dealing with Rust

Quote Originally Posted by Pandani View Post
I also used an electronic device that was attached to the bodywork with two probes that was meant to reverse the charge on the bodywork. I think it was a waste of money as I saw no benefit in it.
Interesting.
I use similar devices on two of my classic cars, and they are ( almost) rustfree, altough hardly driven in rain and never in winter.
I bought the devices in Germany, and it was called "Corrotec".
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Old 26-10-2016   #26
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Re: Actually Dealing with Rust

Quote Originally Posted by Peter Pick-Up View Post
Interesting.
I use similar devices on two of my classic cars, and they are ( almost) rustfree, altough hardly driven in rain and never in winter.
I bought the devices in Germany, and it was called "Corrotec".
I may be wrong about this but is this why they changed early cars from positive earth to negative?
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Old 11-11-2016   #27
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Re: Actually Dealing with Rust

best ways to deal with rust in my experience.

1. cut it out and weld in a new bit.
or
2. sand blast back to bare good steel, prime and paint.
or
3. spray with well burnt engine oil.

rust primer and phosphoric acid based wonder cures are not up to much and its hard to clean rust out of awkward corners with anything other than sand blasting. i spray the underside of all my vehicles once a year straight after MOT with dirty black oil. it is particularly good for inside hollow box sections and is quick to do and costs nothing.
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Old 12-11-2016   #28
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Re: Actually Dealing with Rust

Old engine oil contains accids and small metal particels, not a good idea at all.
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Old 12-11-2016   #29
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Re: Actually Dealing with Rust

Quote Originally Posted by Peter Pick-Up View Post
Worn engine oil contains acid, that will speed up the rust process....
Not a good idea at all...
I Donít know where you get your information, when i look in the engine bay of my 17 year old work van it is clear that the metal near the oil leaks is beautifully preserved while in clean oil free places it is rusty. so for now I beg to differ
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Old 12-11-2016   #30
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Re: Actually Dealing with Rust

Simple, oil leaks means a constant stream of (more or less clean) oil.
If you will duplicate that process, you have to spray your car about weekly with worn oil.....
Still containing absorbed accid and ( metal) dirt particles..

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