Just changed both rear bearings (NON ABS) and the difference was like night & day. I'll do a write up later if anyone is interested. But it's pi$$ easy.
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Technical Rear bearing replacement
- Thread starter Alan.D
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Technical Rear bearing replacement
I just have done all 4 on mine the car is so much better. be careful to torque the nuts down to spec though. Too tight and you can crush them too loose and there will be play
OP
OP
OK 1st of all this is a guide it's how I did the Job and it was no problem so if you carry out these instructions & f**k it up that's your fault. I take no responsibility for your lack of safety.
Right park the car on a flat solid surface put it in first or reverse after turning the engine off, chalk the front wheels with wooden wedges or what ever else you have available. Loosten of the master cylinder cap, Loosten the wheel nuts on one of the rear wheels jack the wheel up, lower onto an axle stand and remove the wheel.
Next remove the hub grease cap (pic1) so you can see the hub nut (pic2)
Now put the wheel back on using two nuts will be sufficiant and lower the wheel to the ground. Using a torque wrench or a long tyre bar loosten the hub nut (pic3) it may take a bit of force.
Now again jack up the car lower onto an axle stand and remove the wheel.
Next Job is to remove the rear caliper followed by the disc pads (Make sure the Handbrake is not on or you will never get it off) Remove the two 13mm bolts you may have to place a spanner on the inner nut 14mm I think (I used an imperial spanner as all my tools are still in Manchester
) (Pic 4)
You now have to remove the caliper axle mount by undoing the two 8mm allen key bolts (pic 5)
Now remove the hub nut fully and you can use the brake disc as a bit of leverage to slide the old hub off. The hub comes complete with the bearing and should come off as one although one of mine broke into many pieces
Remove the two lug bolt that hold the disc to the bearing 12mm (pic 6)
Now have a look at the old bearing in comparison with your lovely new one (pic 7 & 8)
Time for a ciggy or a coffee
Ahh! that's better
Right....now slide your new bearing onto the stub axle after giving it a good clean (you can bolt the disc onto the bearing with the two lugbolts either before or after sliding the bearing on) (pic 9 & 10)
Now tighten the new hub nut 32mm but not fully at this stage just till there is some resistance.
Re attach the caliper mount brake pads and caliper (reverse of removal) re attach the wheel with two nuts & again lower to the ground.
Now tighten up the hub nut (This is where better knowledge may help) However as it's a tapered bearing the usual method is tighten it as much as it will go, then back a 1/4 to half turn.
Again you will have to raise the car remove the wheel and re attach the hub cap but make sure you fill with grease first.
Make sure you clean the disc of any grease oil dirt etc put the wheel on properly drop the the floor tighten the wheel nuts and get on with the next one.
about 25min a side will be the time it takes if you do it properly so no need to rush.
It's a perfect time to change the rear disc's or pads at this time if they are badly worn but as I forgot to buy pads and they were OKish I never bothered.
Before driving off dab the brake pedal to take up any slack from the calipers and tighten the master cylinder cap
I always replace in pairs so did both sides and i would advise anyone else to do the same. From Motorquip the bearings were £23 each
Good night & god bless
Right park the car on a flat solid surface put it in first or reverse after turning the engine off, chalk the front wheels with wooden wedges or what ever else you have available. Loosten of the master cylinder cap, Loosten the wheel nuts on one of the rear wheels jack the wheel up, lower onto an axle stand and remove the wheel.
Next remove the hub grease cap (pic1) so you can see the hub nut (pic2)
Now put the wheel back on using two nuts will be sufficiant and lower the wheel to the ground. Using a torque wrench or a long tyre bar loosten the hub nut (pic3) it may take a bit of force.
Now again jack up the car lower onto an axle stand and remove the wheel.
Next Job is to remove the rear caliper followed by the disc pads (Make sure the Handbrake is not on or you will never get it off) Remove the two 13mm bolts you may have to place a spanner on the inner nut 14mm I think (I used an imperial spanner as all my tools are still in Manchester
) (Pic 4)You now have to remove the caliper axle mount by undoing the two 8mm allen key bolts (pic 5)
Now remove the hub nut fully and you can use the brake disc as a bit of leverage to slide the old hub off. The hub comes complete with the bearing and should come off as one although one of mine broke into many pieces
Remove the two lug bolt that hold the disc to the bearing 12mm (pic 6)
Now have a look at the old bearing in comparison with your lovely new one (pic 7 & 8)
Time for a ciggy or a coffee
Ahh! that's better
Right....now slide your new bearing onto the stub axle after giving it a good clean (you can bolt the disc onto the bearing with the two lugbolts either before or after sliding the bearing on) (pic 9 & 10)
Now tighten the new hub nut 32mm but not fully at this stage just till there is some resistance.
Re attach the caliper mount brake pads and caliper (reverse of removal) re attach the wheel with two nuts & again lower to the ground.
Now tighten up the hub nut (This is where better knowledge may help) However as it's a tapered bearing the usual method is tighten it as much as it will go, then back a 1/4 to half turn.
Again you will have to raise the car remove the wheel and re attach the hub cap but make sure you fill with grease first.
Make sure you clean the disc of any grease oil dirt etc put the wheel on properly drop the the floor tighten the wheel nuts and get on with the next one.
about 25min a side will be the time it takes if you do it properly so no need to rush.
It's a perfect time to change the rear disc's or pads at this time if they are badly worn but as I forgot to buy pads and they were OKish I never bothered.
Before driving off dab the brake pedal to take up any slack from the calipers and tighten the master cylinder cap
I always replace in pairs so did both sides and i would advise anyone else to do the same. From Motorquip the bearings were £23 each
Good night & god bless
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OP
OP
gt3man said:
What is the correct torque settings as i couldn't find them available
Alan.D said:
Most mechanics will have a book of tricks with specs... I don't have a torque wrench, so I just popped into my local. It was only a mile or so away & the guy torqued them all up for me for nothing, It took 5 Min's. Although all I have to do with my wheels to gain access to the nuts is take of the center caps of the alloys. If no one on here can help you maybe try the dealer workshop. Although the dealers don't like to really give out info that freely. Most often there on there lunch breaks or don't pic up the phone....mmm... lol. Try not to drive the car, until theses nuts are torqued to spec. You could even be cheeky & pop into halfords and sneak a peek at a hanes or better still buy a manuall there well worth it
OP
OP
The Punto GT on which the barchetta is based is 280nm?
I have a few auto data manuals but the barchetta is blank for almost everything
I have a few auto data manuals but the barchetta is blank for almost everything
OP
OP
I phone Fiat this morning and two hours later still never got a proper answer, they were very curtious and attempted to be helpfull but just didn't have any information on the Barchetta. Eventually i was told that the type of bearings in the Barchetta, has to be very tight and one of the workshop lads said the setting was TAF (Tight as f**k) and then a little more.
I was going on the assumption it would be the same or very simmilar to the Punto GT which was 280nm and is a very tight setting (three times that of the wheel nuts) There is NO information on the net at all on these settings either
Anyway as a result of all my tools being in Manchester I went to see a mate in Quik-fit to borrow a torque wrench who had all the settings listed in their manuals and confirmed the Torque setting for the Barchetta rear bearing is 280nm
Most torque wrenches don't go that high and are normally in the 200nm range so I suppose Fiat were sort of right. I wouldn't slag them off as they did try to help and this area has very very few and I was told they have never had one to work on. :idea: I did offer mine for training so they could carry out a full service but was declined
I was going on the assumption it would be the same or very simmilar to the Punto GT which was 280nm and is a very tight setting (three times that of the wheel nuts) There is NO information on the net at all on these settings either
Anyway as a result of all my tools being in Manchester I went to see a mate in Quik-fit to borrow a torque wrench who had all the settings listed in their manuals and confirmed the Torque setting for the Barchetta rear bearing is 280nm
Most torque wrenches don't go that high and are normally in the 200nm range so I suppose Fiat were sort of right. I wouldn't slag them off as they did try to help and this area has very very few and I was told they have never had one to work on. :idea: I did offer mine for training so they could carry out a full service but was declined
result then
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OP
OP
Yep cheers.
BTW this was all that is on the autodata manual
cheers.BTW this was all that is on the autodata manual
doogal
New member
Alan.D said:BTW this was all that is on the autodata manual
Very helpful, then...
Doog.
PS - the guide to changing the bearings is, on the other hand, very good. I probably need to do mine b4 the next MOT.
2 Questions:
1) is there a key that you hammer over to lock the hub nut in place or is this just on the fronts?
2) are you planning to do your fronts at any stage?
OP
OP
The rear bearings have a locknut as well as a locking compound on the nut thread & there for no recess to chisel a little groove in.
The whole car is now very quiet and has no front bearing noise so don't intend to change them at this time.
The whole car is now very quiet and has no front bearing noise so don't intend to change them at this time.
I forgot to add, after a few thousand miles once the bearings have bedded in. They should be checked & re torqued if needed
Could anyone let me know what grease they used to pack the hub cap with.
The Workshop Manual says Tutela MR3, but try finding any !!!
Thanks
The Workshop Manual says Tutela MR3, but try finding any !!!
Thanks
OP
OP
I just used the normal packing grease as they shouldn't get that hot
