Technical Sump questions

[Voko]

Hi, the list of jobs is growing....I was going to do an oil change but noticed there was a patch of some kind of sealer been applied on the sump which looks like it is hiding a small hole or crack in the sump. (there are some scuff marks in the surrounding area)


Two questions - Does anyone have a sump for sale?, and how hard a job is it to do?


If anyone has done the job before I'd appreciate advice....

 

[Voko]

Hi,


I've now replaced my sump, all in all not a particularly difficult job, but there are a couple of points that are worth checking before you start work...


With many thanks to Dave-M for the supply of a replacement sump and helpful advice.


I'll put together a guide in due course, but here's a rough idea of what's involved, its pretty obvious when you are under the car.

• The sump is held on with a mix of Torx T50 and T40 screws (the 4 T40s are at the gearbox end and the crank pulley end), some are easy to reach with a standard tool, but some are deep though holes. It is worth checking you can positively reach all the heads before starting work, the tool doesn't just need to be long, but slender also. A couple of 200mm drivers from ebay are invaluable.
• There's also a couple of 13mm bolts attaching the sump to the gearbox housing
• The only part that needs removing first is the exhaust downpipe, and the sump bracket that passes under the exhaust. There's enough flex in the down pipe to move it out of the way, and support it on something
• Depending on your car there may be a support bracket between the drive shaft bearing housing and the sump. Ideally, you need the sump that matches your car. The sump on my car and the one Dave supplied me were different in this respect. Mine (1999) has the Bracket holes, the replacement (older) didn't. This isn't immediately obvious when you look under the car, you need to put your hands around the extension at the rear of the sump and feel for the 13mm bolt head and nut running inline with the drive shaft. (it took me ages to realise why my sump wouldn't come off ).
• There seems to be a few part numbers for sumps, the one with the bracket on my car was 60604406, and without the bracket 60604851. I think the sump which is configured for the bracket will fit on either car type, but the non-bracket sump will not fit on the bracket car type as is. I had to cut off the bracket from the bearing housing to stop it interfering. So ideally make sure you've got the right sump, but there are work arounds.
• So once you are prepared, drain the oil, remove the oil filter (assuming you are going to change it) move the exhaust out of the way, undo all the Torx screws, the two bolts to the gearbox housing, and the extra bolt to the support bracket (if fitted).
• Clean as much of the gasket sealant as you can out of the sump/engine join (there's a bit of a groove so you can get quite a lot out), it sticks well so the more the better.
• Then it just a case of working your way round the sump levering in the groove, with suitably size screwdrivers and anything else that fits......There are some tabs on the sump to help with this, but they can break. A bit of patience, levering, wiggling and rocking and eventually mine came free.
• Refitting is easy, check all the mating surfaces are clean and there are no foreign objects in you new sump. I used the genuine Alfa/Fiat gasket sealant from Shop4parts and it seems good stuff. Make sure you use a new washer on the sump plug (again shop4parts) and then the sump plug shouldn't need to be over tightened.
• refit exhaust & support bracket (ideally with a new gasket part no 46772217)
• Put your new oil filter on, fill with oil etc.

Oh, and in case you were wondering, my old sump had a small damage crack which had been patched.


Best


Mike