Technical Fuel Smell

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Technical Fuel Smell

Yes I read old threads about the seals around the vents and fuel pump, some people reported visible signs of fuel in those areas but on mine they were completely dry, still looked perfect and were still tightly in place. Plus with the intermittent nature of the smell, I just couldn't see them being the issue (I smeared sealant around them anyway, just in case but it made no difference). Hence I went on to try the segregator/canister steps, and it was bypassing/isolating the segregator which fixed the problem completely. But different cars may have different causes of course.
 
Has anybody considered the old fashioned method of having a small vent hole in the filler cap? Old cars always had one to stop pressure build-up and prevent a vacuum forming (causing fuel starvation). I think if I had this problem I would be tempted to drill a 1mm hole in the filler cap to vent the tank. I don't think it would be large enough to allow petrol smell and must be a lot easier than rerouting and bypassing pipes etc.
 
Fair point Dave,
I have always thought that the Barchetta's tank had to have pressure inside it, for what reason I am unsure. And I would think that perhaps your suggestion may well rid our cars with the petrol smell. The reason I removed the separator and carbon filter is because I felt they were responsible for the smell, although once removed I could see no reason why they were the culprits.
I filled up my tank yesterday and I have no smell of petrol as yet, so hopefully I am rid of the smell. Still unsure of my option of connecting up to the solenoid, car does seem to run OK although it has had a few strange instance's on tickover when at junctions etc.But this could be me being paranoid regarding my fix.
Regards Dave
 
Hate to say it but I tried that as well. I bought my hardtop from a guy down in Felixstowe and he kindly also sent me a different fuel cap after I mentioned the smell issue to him. The different cap didn't improve the situation so I tried making a small hole in it, but the smell in the cabin and boot remained the same. I suppose even with the vented cap vapour still passes into the segregator and for reasons unknown wasn't being held in it. And I have a feeling most caps have some kind of venting system built into them anyway but I could be wrong on that (as with most else). Oh and I also tried smearing sealant around the fuel pump hose fittings on top of the tank, in case that was the problem area, but again made no difference. And obviously I also tried tightening all the various tank clips and fastenings but all were fine. And I replaced the fuel hose clips at the fuel rail, all the obvious stuff really. Altering the charcoal canister and segregator set-ups really was done as a last resort.
 
DaveM, thanks, yes I am waiting for winter before I attack the problem and will take theseats out, back plate and the plastic cover to access all around the tank. I will re-read thisthread and systematically try all suggestions. I don't fancy removing the tank and if simply re-direclting the outlet from both bents to the rear is a workable safe solution I will probably go that way.
SteveD
 
I finally got around to changing the gasket seals of the fuel vent valves in the fuel tank. This entailed removing the tank because access to the extremely tight fit valves in the tank does not allow for enough prising and pushing. I have hopefully attached a few photos.
Basically, use a sharp flexible blade to cut under and around the top of the valve seal. Using thin pincer nose pliers , pull this ct rubber away from the vent valve. Then by lubricating the remaining rubber gasket and manipulating the valve, also using a small flat screw driver push the remaining gasket into the tank. This finally allows the valve to be lifted out of the tank.
Lubricate the new gaskets and set them in the tank hole. Lubricate the rubber gasket again and push the valve into the gasket. I found it necessary to place a rag over the valve for comfort as I applied pressure pushing down and wiggling the valve with my weight . It was very tight.
Shake the tank to remove the old gasket.
Photos unfortunately are too big so will have to wait until I can figuer out how to reduce them in size.
SteveD
 
Photos
 

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I need to do this! How difficult was it to remove the tank? I've removed the bulkhead, but access is still very tight.
 
It is fairly easy to take the tank out. The procedure I used is as follows:
1. Disconnect the battery.
2. Disconnect the battery..... really.
3. Remove the passenger seat, four bolts. Careful to disconnect the electrical plug under the seat before lifting the seat out.
4. Remove the wind stop.
5. Raise the brake , remove the felt/rubber sleeve from around the base of the hand brake lever to expose the single screw at the front holding the plastc cover down. Lift the arm rest cover and undo the two bolts holding the arm rest to the floor. Lift away the armrest, careful to disconnect the plug to the auxilary plug (cigar lighter). I couldn’t undo the plug so gently manipulated the armrest out of the way and supported it with a bungee chord.
6. Remove the plastic backing on the rear bulkhead to expose the removable plate hiding the fuel tank. The two plastic covers by the seat belts at each door will need to be removed, two screws hold each one in position.
7. Unbolt the back plate, 10mm bolts, lift away the plastic flloor a little away from the bottom of the plate. The technique I used to remove the plate was to slide the plate sideways to the right (as you face the rear of the car), manipulate the left side of the plate down and towards you, once free from the left side lift up and away sliding left. This worked for me, some people nhave found that they have to remove cill plastics as well but I didn’t find this necessary.
8. The fuel tank is now exposed. Next lift the plastic carpet slightly from the hood shelf. If you partly traise the roof and use a bungee chord to hold it out of the way it is easier to access the plate cover over the fuel pump. 6 nuts hold the plate cover, remove them and the plate. This allows easy access to disconnecting the fuel line to the fuel pump and the power lead. They disconnect easily. If you have small hands you may not need to access the pump connections from this access point if you can get to them from the back plate area. It is quite quick to access though and much easier to see what you are doing.
9. Next disconnect the pipes clipped to the tank and the power lead. Undo the connectors to the vents and fuel lines. If they are connected using the crimped bands it is easier to use a special tool to break the crimp. This took me the longest time using increasingly larger screwdrivers to force the crimp open. Be careful. Some of my connections had jubelee clips and were easier to undo. i replaced the crimped connectors with pressure /fuel jubelee connectors.
10. Undo the two 13mm bolts, one ea ch side of the tank holding the tank in position. With the pipes disconnected, including the fuel fill pipe and overflow, the tank can be pulled towards you and out. I used two bungees chords to gently hold the disconnected pipes out of the way while I pulled the tank out. Really easy.
11. Once out the valves can be replaced as before described, remember plenty of lubricant help, I used brake cleaner.
12. Replacement is the reverse order.
13. DO NOT FORGET to reconnct the plug under the seat before reconnecting the battery.
Timings, it took me about 1.5hrs to get the tank out but that was because I was cautious and didn’t have the proper tools to undo the crimped pipe connectors. 45mins to remove the vents, clean them and replace the seals. I spent time cleaning the fuel tank before putting it all back together.
I put fuel in the tank before I replaced the back plate and when everything was buttoned up I opened the fuel cap and had that satisfied pressure hiss as the fuel had expanded a little while in the tank from being outside.
All in all a satisfying job.
Before ypu start make sure you have replacement fuel clips Jubelee clips.
SteveD
 
It is fairly easy to take the tank out. The procedure I used is as follows:
1. Disconnect the battery.
2. Disconnect the battery..... really.
3. Remove the passenger seat, four bolts. Careful to disconnect the electrical plug under the seat before lifting the seat out.
4. Remove the wind stop.
5. Raise the brake , remove the felt/rubber sleeve from around the base of the hand brake lever to expose the single screw at the front holding the plastc cover down. Lift the arm rest cover and undo the two bolts holding the arm rest to the floor. Lift away the armrest, careful to disconnect the plug to the auxilary plug (cigar lighter). I couldn’t undo the plug so gently manipulated the armrest out of the way and supported it with a bungee chord.
6. Remove the plastic backing on the rear bulkhead to expose the removable plate hiding the fuel tank. The two plastic covers by the seat belts at each door will need to be removed, two screws hold each one in position.
7. Unbolt the back plate, 10mm bolts, lift away the plastic flloor a little away from the bottom of the plate. The technique I used to remove the plate was to slide the plate sideways to the right (as you face the rear of the car), manipulate the left side of the plate down and towards you, once free from the left side lift up and away sliding left. This worked for me, some people nhave found that they have to remove cill plastics as well but I didn’t find this necessary.
8. The fuel tank is now exposed. Next lift the plastic carpet slightly from the hood shelf. If you partly traise the roof and use a bungee chord to hold it out of the way it is easier to access the plate cover over the fuel pump. 6 nuts hold the plate cover, remove them and the plate. This allows easy access to disconnecting the fuel line to the fuel pump and the power lead. They disconnect easily. If you have small hands you may not need to access the pump connections from this access point if you can get to them from the back plate area. It is quite quick to access though and much easier to see what you are doing.
9. Next disconnect the pipes clipped to the tank and the power lead. Undo the connectors to the vents and fuel lines. If they are connected using the crimped bands it is easier to use a special tool to break the crimp. This took me the longest time using increasingly larger screwdrivers to force the crimp open. Be careful. Some of my connections had jubelee clips and were easier to undo. i replaced the crimped connectors with pressure /fuel jubelee connectors.
10. Undo the two 13mm bolts, one ea ch side of the tank holding the tank in position. With the pipes disconnected, including the fuel fill pipe and overflow, the tank can be pulled towards you and out. I used two bungees chords to gently hold the disconnected pipes out of the way while I pulled the tank out. Really easy.
11. Once out the valves can be replaced as before described, remember plenty of lubricant help, I used brake cleaner.
12. Replacement is the reverse order.
13. DO NOT FORGET to reconnct the plug under the seat before reconnecting the battery.
Timings, it took me about 1.5hrs to get the tank out but that was because I was cautious and didn’t have the proper tools to undo the crimped pipe connectors. 45mins to remove the vents, clean them and replace the seals. I spent time cleaning the fuel tank before putting it all back together.
I put fuel in the tank before I replaced the back plate and when everything was buttoned up I opened the fuel cap and had that satisfied pressure hiss as the fuel had expanded a little while in the tank from being outside.
All in all a satisfying job.
Before ypu start make sure you have replacement fuel clips Jubelee clips.
SteveD

Oh wow! You absolute hero! I can't thank you enough for such a detailed guide. :worship:
 
Last edited:
It is fairly easy to take the tank out. The procedure I used is as follows:
1. Disconnect the battery.
2. Disconnect the battery..... really.
3. Remove the passenger seat, four bolts. Careful to disconnect the electrical plug under the seat before lifting the seat out.
4. Remove the wind stop.
5. Raise the brake , remove the felt/rubber sleeve from around the base of the hand brake lever to expose the single screw at the front holding the plastc cover down. Lift the arm rest cover and undo the two bolts holding the arm rest to the floor. Lift away the armrest, careful to disconnect the plug to the auxilary plug (cigar lighter). I couldn’t undo the plug so gently manipulated the armrest out of the way and supported it with a bungee chord.
6. Remove the plastic backing on the rear bulkhead to expose the removable plate hiding the fuel tank. The two plastic covers by the seat belts at each door will need to be removed, two screws hold each one in position.
7. Unbolt the back plate, 10mm bolts, lift away the plastic flloor a little away from the bottom of the plate. The technique I used to remove the plate was to slide the plate sideways to the right (as you face the rear of the car), manipulate the left side of the plate down and towards you, once free from the left side lift up and away sliding left. This worked for me, some people nhave found that they have to remove cill plastics as well but I didn’t find this necessary.
8. The fuel tank is now exposed. Next lift the plastic carpet slightly from the hood shelf. If you partly traise the roof and use a bungee chord to hold it out of the way it is easier to access the plate cover over the fuel pump. 6 nuts hold the plate cover, remove them and the plate. This allows easy access to disconnecting the fuel line to the fuel pump and the power lead. They disconnect easily. If you have small hands you may not need to access the pump connections from this access point if you can get to them from the back plate area. It is quite quick to access though and much easier to see what you are doing.
9. Next disconnect the pipes clipped to the tank and the power lead. Undo the connectors to the vents and fuel lines. If they are connected using the crimped bands it is easier to use a special tool to break the crimp. This took me the longest time using increasingly larger screwdrivers to force the crimp open. Be careful. Some of my connections had jubelee clips and were easier to undo. i replaced the crimped connectors with pressure /fuel jubelee connectors.
10. Undo the two 13mm bolts, one ea ch side of the tank holding the tank in position. With the pipes disconnected, including the fuel fill pipe and overflow, the tank can be pulled towards you and out. I used two bungees chords to gently hold the disconnected pipes out of the way while I pulled the tank out. Really easy.
11. Once out the valves can be replaced as before described, remember plenty of lubricant help, I used brake cleaner.
12. Replacement is the reverse order.
13. DO NOT FORGET to reconnct the plug under the seat before reconnecting the battery.
Timings, it took me about 1.5hrs to get the tank out but that was because I was cautious and didn’t have the proper tools to undo the crimped pipe connectors. 45mins to remove the vents, clean them and replace the seals. I spent time cleaning the fuel tank before putting it all back together.
I put fuel in the tank before I replaced the back plate and when everything was buttoned up I opened the fuel cap and had that satisfied pressure hiss as the fuel had expanded a little while in the tank from being outside.
All in all a satisfying job.
Before ypu start make sure you have replacement fuel clips Jubelee clips.
SteveD
Top advice StevePD. We have astrong fuel smell around one of those valves / gaskets / seals so want to replace it. The only issue I have is that I can't seem to find anywhere to buy them from??? Valves seemingly don't exist and Fiat won't help and even the seals/gaskets are not available. I have the part numbers from the PERS database (and another) but no web searches turn up a supplier. Do you remember where you bought yours please?
Thanks in advance
UF
 
Top advice StevePD. We have astrong fuel smell around one of those valves / gaskets / seals so want to replace it. The only issue I have is that I can't seem to find anywhere to buy them from??? Valves seemingly don't exist and Fiat won't help and even the seals/gaskets are not available. I have the part numbers from the PERS database (and another) but no web searches turn up a supplier. Do you remember where you bought yours please?
Thanks in advance
UF
I must do mine at some point. Do you know if you have the M1 or M2 engine as the part numbers differ between the two.
I've seen the ones for the M2 on sale here:
and there's also someone on Facebook who advertises them
I think the ones that Henk sells are for the M1:
but I'm sure he could confirm that.
 
I must do mine at some point. Do you know if you have the M1 or M2 engine as the part numbers differ between the two.
I've seen the ones for the M2 on sale here:
and there's also someone on Facebook who advertises them
I think the ones that Henk sells are for the M1:
but I'm sure he could confirm that.
Thanks Chris, our tank looks like the the M1 version and I've got a quote from the Dutch outfit you suggested. for everyone's info, the rubber gaskets are €22 EACH plus another €22 for shipping (for a package that weighs as much as a family-size bag of crisps.... ouch). That's for delivery to France so there may well be an import levy / VAT extra if you need them delivered to the UK :)
Thanks for responding.
UF
 
I must do mine at some point. Do you know if you have the M1 or M2 engine as the part numbers differ between the two.
I've seen the ones for the M2 on sale here:
and there's also someone on Facebook who advertises them
I think the ones that Henk sells are for the M1:
but I'm sure he could confirm that.
Or, if you are ageing & getting lazy like me, you could just ask DTR to sort it at the annual service (Charlie is well experienced) although it could cost 3 hours😌
 
Quick update having now replaced these vent gaskets, which hopefully might help others.... The advice shared by StevePD on getting access to and removal of fuel tank was priceless so thanks again, by the way.

The gaskets were absolute pigs to remove and did indeed need cutting and lubricating. We cut with one hand and held the gasket still with a pair of tiny mole grips so that it did not fall down inside the fuel tank. Then, after each cut, having made the gasket's seal weaker, some very gentle wiggling whilst lifting upwards ensued until the plastic valve came free. Be careful, the 'lips' of the valve are very tempting to grab hold of but they are quite brittle (fortunately for us didn't break any more than a tiny chip.

The instructions to replace the valve and new gasket were 1) put the new gasket into its position in the tank and then 2) push the valve back into position through the now seemingly much smaller hole (because the gasket is in it). Even with the break cleaner lubricant, this required so much twisting and downward pressure that the tank actually bent inwards a little. We stopped and pulled out the 'dent' and went back to the process of trying to push downwards and twist. Eventually the valve was re-seated but we had to use silicone as lubricant and warm up the gasket a little as the versions we bought from Barchettaparts (recommended in this thread) was simply too stiff for the break cleaner to make any difference.

On the plus side, this gasket and valve is seated so tightly that we're hopeful it's going to last a good while and deal with the petrol smell - which by the way is gone for now. Going on a longer drive tomorrow and have our fingers crossed.

Thanks again for all the advice and I hope our experience adds a little too.
UF
 
I finally got around to changing the gasket seals of the fuel vent valves in the fuel tank. This entailed removing the tank because access to the extremely tight fit valves in the tank does not allow for enough prising and pushing. I have hopefully attached a few photos.
Basically, use a sharp flexible blade to cut under and around the top of the valve seal. Using thin pincer nose pliers , pull this ct rubber away from the vent valve. Then by lubricating the remaining rubber gasket and manipulating the valve, also using a small flat screw driver push the remaining gasket into the tank. This finally allows the valve to be lifted out of the tank.
Lubricate the new gaskets and set them in the tank hole. Lubricate the rubber gasket again and push the valve into the gasket. I found it necessary to place a rag over the valve for comfort as I applied pressure pushing down and wiggling the valve with my weight . It was very tight.
Shake the tank to remove the old gasket.
Photos unfortunately are too big so will have to wait until I can figuer out how to reduce them in size.
SteveD
Did this cure the petrol smell? Did you have to do anything else i.e. isolate the segregator or carbon filter etc?
 
Hi Wiltshire Chris, StevePD, Unionfan
Did you reslove your fuel smell?,
I am about to tackle mine and have been researching the issue(s) for quite some time, reading some great threads discussing the issue.
Looking at quick wins (just in case I get lucky), I am going to;
Test the Charcoal Filter Scrubbing Solenoid - The way I understand it is, if this fails to operate in can cause over pressure which will push vapour out of the fuel cap ( if the internal valve is operating correctly) or through the tank seals?.
Look at the fuel cap as this should have a 2 way valve in it and is the valve functioning correctly ( When I take the cap off I get a long(ish) loud hiss, not sure if this in inwards or outwards though ( I suspect its outwards as I can smell fuel in that vicinity)
Check all the hose(s) and connections for obvious leaks, similarly check the top of the tank at the pump and the two rollover valves seals.
Isolate the segregator and charcoal filter as described by @ Cribus

I am hoping I don't have to change the two rollover tank valve seals as it sounds troblesome!

Any thoughts on my plan of action before I start? Have I missed anything obvious?
Cheers.
 
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