Technical MAF Sensor?

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Technical MAF Sensor?

Hi Tony my fuel consumption is always the same regardless of how i drive .But when the lambda goes faulty and the car is rich in fuel you should only be getting about 20 mpg . also spray some release oil around the lambda overnight as they can be tight which is situated on the downpipe before the cat .
 
I read somewhere that the lambda sensor is not used when the engine has just been started, so I guess that's not why my idle from cold is bad, is that right?

However, my last engine was throwing a lot (litres) of oil straight out of the exhaust, so I'm assuming that's probably damaged my lambda sensor...

So, I'll give my symptoms once more.

Rough idle from cold (varies 1.6K RPM - almost stalling) for 1 minute.
Hesitation when the engine is warm, especially below 2K RPM.
Loss of power below 3K RPM.
Some difficulty starting warm engine.


My best guess at the moment is that my lambda sensor AND my cold start sensor are ****ed.
 
I read somewhere that the lambda sensor is not used when the engine has just been started, so I guess that's not why my idle from cold is bad, is that right?

However, my last engine was throwing a lot (litres) of oil straight out of the exhaust, so I'm assuming that's probably damaged my lambda sensor...

So, I'll give my symptoms once more.

Rough idle from cold (varies 1.6K RPM - almost stalling) for 1 minute.
Hesitation when the engine is warm, especially below 2K RPM.
Loss of power below 3K RPM.
Some difficulty starting warm engine.


My best guess at the moment is that my lambda sensor AND my cold start sensor are ****ed.

Difficulty starting when hot can be a lambda fault as for the rest Tony i would be guessing.
 
Nope, turns out my car, 2001 Italian model, has three lambda sensors. Replacing one and cleaning the rest done nothing. Extremely pissed off. Too cold to work on the car now too. Grr!
 
I have the same issues as you, I have a mifire under 2k rpm and loss of power. I have noticed a heavy fuel consumption.

Here's what I have done so far:

Remove and re-seal exhaust back box as it was leaking badly, this cured most of the misfire.

Removed spark plug cover to ensure coil leads not earthing out on underside of cover.

Taped up all coils with black electrical tape to make sure they aren't earthing out.

The latter two had no effect.

My thoughts are now:

1. Coil pack breaking down under load

2. Faulty fuel pressure regulator

3. Burnt valves

More testing will hopefully reveal the problem.

I would try the above if I were you first as these are very quick easy ways of testing for faults.

Check the exhaust isn't blowing first by sealing the pipe with your hand and listening for leaks.

Ad.
 
You've probaly already done it but did you check the wiring to the coil packs, the wires can get brittle over time (one tiny earth wire was broken on mine causing a slight miss).
 
i will go to rebuild air intake with proper hoses (not with WC plastics, but inox and silicone hoses)... so question is where is better to put MAF. closer to inlet manifold or near air filter? so i can buy adapters.... before my McGyvering, MAF was hanging on pedestal of battery connected directly to airbox.
 
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