Has anybody tried these (or similar) tools from eBay? Are they enough for a cam belt / variator change, and qualitywise ok?

They look just like the set I have for the Alfa 156 2.0 engine. Easy to use if you have the instructions, you may need longer bolts to clamp them down though.

I'd take the cam out to do the variator personally, unless you have the right tools.

Not that I have any idea (I'm no mechanic, nor do I understand anything when it comes to engines ) - but wouldn't taking the cams out defy the point in locking them in the first place?

Not taking the cams out. The tools are for locking the cams when you change the timing belt and have to re-adjust the timing afterwards..Fiat / Alfa engines are 'interference engines' where part A spinning at 9k revs has to move sharply out of the way of part B also doing 9k revs. Nasty metallic and expensive noises if the two meet.

In extreme cases the piston moving up meets the open valve pointing down...adious amigo says yr engine.

Robot said:

Not that I have any idea (I'm no mechanic, nor do I understand anything when it comes to engines ) - but wouldn't taking the cams out defy the point in locking them in the first place?

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The tools are to lock the cams in place for timing up, you can take them out if you wish.

Part of the reason for timing up like this is that on the inlet cam you have to loosen the pulley from the variator/cam itself (so it can be adjusted on its slots), then set the belt up and tighten the pulley back on to the variator. There are no timing marks like you would find on a more conventional engine.

I've always, as others, been puzzled by this "lock the cam shafts and slacken the inlet cam drive procket off". IF the engine was correctly timedin the factory, and has not been replaced (or has been previously been correctly replaced) then NO cam belt stretches by anywhere near one sprocket tooth alignment should have occurred. This should mean that a carefully marked cam belt, wheels/sprockets and belt transplant should not mess up the timing.

Two points I would add is that a) I gather that once the tensioner pulley is released there is still little room/slack to remove and replace the belt

and b) given a) locking the cam shafts off makes it less likely to disturb the timing.

If you are slow and careful then one could bypass the camshaft locks.

HOWEVER!!!! given that the variator is still prone to wear and noise at cambelt change time then locking the camshaft to replace the variator becomes a neccessity.

True if you aren't changing the variator, maybe I should have mentioned that. I did a Marea 20v one with no cam locks and that's a very similar setup.

Thing is, as you hint at above if you are changing the variator, when you bolt the cam pulley back onto the variator the holes in the cam pulley are slotted and adjustable - so you need the cam locks in place.

This may sound dodgey but when I done mine I found you could do the belt without the use of a dti gauge to set tdc. I just turned it over untill the cam locks both fitted, then wedged the flywheel so it could'nt move.

You have to slacken both pulleys, the exhaust pulley moves as well. Also make sure the variator is in the right position when you set it.

I've never found the need for a DTI gauge either, the crank pulley markings are usually close enough.

Hi Guys,
Recently i change the variator, the bearings, the water pump e.t.c (all this package!). And i saw in the service shop that use this locking tool.
My question is, to change the variator you need only this locking tool? or after that you need more trimming? (f.e. in the valves?)

Here pictures from the service